Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Brake rebuild questions 79SF

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #46
    My turn, my turn!

    When I did my rebuild in 2000, my front MC was toast, and I didn't want to try to rebuild it...all rusted/corroded. SO..I got a functional used MC to replace mine. However, I didn't learn until a while later that it was one off of an XJ which is smaller and designed to drive only 1 caliper.

    BTW, The 81 MNS and the 82 XJ's have the linked rear/front brake lines with the proportioning valve built into the rear MC, but many have actually UNLINKED theirs, because they didn't like the idea of apply FRONT brake especially in a turn when they were only wanting to apply rear brake!

    Anyways, used the OEM vinyl lines, and with the smaller MC, I had to actually PUMP it to get decent pressure without hitting the bar/grip with the lever! Then a little while later I got the SS lines and put on there. Then the small mc was adequate, provided plenty of braking pressure with just 1 pull and didn't hit the bar/grip since the lines weren't expanding wasting the small volume that it pushed out with just 1 pull.

    The SS lines provide a better feel and sense of what's happening with the front. The smaller mc also can provide a more precise control feeling because it can develop more pressure, but you can input/control the rise of that pressure a bit more precisely because it takes more lever distance to create it. The larger bore MC's can push more fluid faster with less lever travel, but they also can provide plenty of pressure with a moderate more amount of lever pressure...no real beefy forearms required.

    Marty, I remember being able to lock up the rear with the OEM lines, but I still put on an SS line anyways. I learned to apply both brakes fairly quickly in panic stops which is hopefully being done going straight, not necessarily in a turn. I do prefer to use my rear brake if I've over estimated my in turn speed, would rather handle the rear sliding than the front sliding=no handling really in a turn . There are ways you can adjust the rear lever and the mc piston so that it would require more lever action before you could reach the point of locking up the rear brake. YMMV.

    I'm sure one of these days I'll get a new front MC with teh 16mm bore, close to OEM, larger than the 14mm small bore, but not quite as large as the OEM 17.5mm. I'm also wanting to do a mod to be able to mount a better set of calipers on the SPECIAL forks, need to fabricate a bracket or such, but I think it can be done to be able to get rid of the slanted pads!

    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

    Comment


    • #47
      The front master cylinder and calipers are dead easy to pull apart and clean. On mine, the rubber parts were fine, but everything just needed a good clean and it was like new, and yes, can easily exceed the traction limits of the tire (lock it up).

      The front calipers you remove the dust boot retainer ring which is like a spring, then pull use the lever to pop the pistons out of the bore. Remove dust cover from piston, clean the piston, the bore, and all the passages. Be sure to pull the rubber o-ring from inside the bore and clean behind it -- it is amazing the amount of crap that accumulates in there. Clean the o-ring also, re-seat it in the clean groove, and pop the piston back in, fill with fluid, and connect back to the brake line.

      The master cylinder is similarly easy -- remove from bike, remove line & brakelight switch, remove lever from bracket, remove boot on MC plunger, use snap ring pliers or picks to remove snap ring, pull the piston, and clean the bore, piston, passages, and behind the rubber. Clean the fluid draw hole and return hole (guitar string works fine for the latter) and the inside of the reservoir well to make sure you remove all the crap.

      My brakes seemed like they worked "fine" but not great, and they literally looked like they had sand poured in the system. After being cleaned, they work great.
      XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

      Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.

      Comment


      • #48
        I'm going to start with actually rebuilding the master(kit on the way) and if the old parts are worth saving as spare parts I will, as far as the calipers, I'm going to clean thoroughly and go from there. Replacement lines all the way around, 30+years original need replacing, I don't trust them. Sometime during the week to follow, I'll take some pics, doing the fork seals and front brakes simultaneously, except for the lines, have to wait for a few more $$ so I'll temporarily re-install the old ones flushed real good to prevent re-contamination, the replace the lines before spring.

        Funny, I never asked, but no-one ever mentioned the rear MC, pretty much the same as the front...clean and inspect first, any concerns to be aware of different from the front? Thanks again.
        81 XS1100H

        Comment


        • #49
          Rear MC

          Basically the same. Spooge hole is a little harder to get at but not bad. It is just harder to bleed because the fluid travels up before it goes down into the line.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

          Comment


          • #50
            Rear MC

            Nope, the rear is easier than the front. Snap ring plyers do all the work. While you have it off though, do take the time to clean the brake switch and contacts and the actuator arm and adjustment mechanism. Two bolts on the fender can be removed and the splash guard will flip up out of the way and offer ample room to work. Leave it out until the new lines are installed the the system charged again.
            Merry X-mas
            mack
            79 XS 1100 SF Special
            HERMES
            original owner
            http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg

            81 XS 1100 LH MNS
            SPICA
            http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg

            78 XS 11E
            IOTA
            https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
            https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA



            Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
            Frankford, Ont, Canada
            613-398-6186

            Comment


            • #51
              Dust boot

              The r-m/c dust boot doesn't come in most kits, If it looks bad, I would replace it also, here it is:
              http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...862-51-00.html

              Originally posted by old_skool View Post
              I'm going to start with actually rebuilding the master(kit on the way) and if the old parts are worth saving as spare parts I will, as far as the calipers, I'm going to clean thoroughly and go from there. Replacement lines all the way around, 30+years original need replacing, I don't trust them. Sometime during the week to follow, I'll take some pics, doing the fork seals and front brakes simultaneously, except for the lines, have to wait for a few more $$ so I'll temporarily re-install the old ones flushed real good to prevent re-contamination, the replace the lines before spring.

              Funny, I never asked, but no-one ever mentioned the rear MC, pretty much the same as the front...clean and inspect first, any concerns to be aware of different from the front? Thanks again.
              1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
              1980 XS1100 Special
              1990 V Max
              1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
              1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
              1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
              1974 CB750-Four



              Past/pres Car's
              1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

              Comment

              Working...
              X