Tempted to try......

[roadgypsy]

Tempted to try putting the cone filters on and hooking up the aux tank i just bought for synching now that solenoid is on and seeing if she'd start with a jump. If I don't go through the carbs first is there anything worse that could happen then she doesn't start? Was told it was ridden up to about 5 yrs ago.

This is why I can't have nice things lol, always too impatient. Part of the reason I got the XS11 was to have a slow project, and learn to do it right for my primary bike.

[BA80]

Give it a shot roadie. Just watch the carbs don't flood and dump gas into the oil.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

5 years?

I guess you have good oil in the motor? 5 years of sitting, I would squirt some oil in each cyl and crank it 1st just to lube the rings and help keep them from sticking / breaking Also wouldnt hurt to remove the valve cover and coat everything there with oil If you hear ANY noise when cranking over, that could be a valve sticking If so, i would find out what it is before installing the plugs and starting, bend / drop one and your work has just started Good luck with your bike

Tempted to try putting the cone filters on and hooking up the aux tank i just bought for synching now that solenoid is on and seeing if she'd start with a jump. If I don't go through the carbs first is there anything worse that could happen then she doesn't start? Was told it was ridden up to about 5 yrs ago.

This is why I can't have nice things lol, always too impatient. Part of the reason I got the XS11 was to have a slow project, and learn to do it right for my primary bike.

[roadgypsy]

Yeah, prolly better if i give it another week or so, got an oil filter on e-bay but i don't have any oil around and broke for this week. See if I feel like pulling the carbs in meantime and goin through the tank. Nice to have the tank on for first attempt anyway so if it starts i can idle out of garage and check everything else. I did give the starter a quick jab once solenoid was on and it sounded weak but no noises, so that's promising at least. Didn't do more than that with air filters off in a dirt floor shed.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Oil filter

Dont know if you have an Advance auto there but they sell the filter and both O rings for 5 bucks, many other stores can get it also

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Motorcycle-Oil-Filter-Fram_5140951-P_1_R%7CGRPFILTAMS____

As to the oil, many on here use car oil, less $$, just make sure it doesn't have the friction mods most car oils do, or you can kill your clutch

I know it is hard to want to here it run, but doing it right the 1st time can mean doing it only once

Yeah, prolly better if i give it another week or so, got an oil filter on e-bay but i don't have any oil around and broke for this week. See if I feel like pulling the carbs in meantime and goin through the tank. Nice to have the tank on for first attempt anyway so if it starts i can idle out of garage and check everything else. I did give the starter a quick jab once solenoid was on and it sounded weak but no noises, so that's promising at least. Didn't do more than that with air filters off in a dirt floor shed.

[roadgypsy]

In the past I'd used the same quaker state i used in the car, forget what I put in my madura when I got it, hadn't had a bike in 5 yrs and didn't even think of friction stuff. I've learned alot about wrenching since my first bike when I was 18 (Rtv for a carb gasket=a very expensive kz400!) But I've applied it less the older I've got, as when I moved home I didn't have anywhere for project cars or bikes, and my self control in aquiring them grew. Now that I'm ready to start out again, trying to go more slowly and hopefully properly. It's gonna take me a while to get back in the game.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Oil

In the 80's the Fed mandated friction mods for car oil to increase gas milage GREAT! Yea, right Well, as you know your car clutch is not in your motor oil, your bike clutch IS Some disagree with me (but none of the people who make the oil do) Those mods can make your clutch slip (learned this the hard way on my KZ) There is a stamp on the oil container and it show the ones that have the mods and the ones that don't

In the past I'd used the same quaker state i used in the car, forget what I put in my madura when I got it, hadn't had a bike in 5 yrs and didn't even think of friction stuff. I've learned alot about wrenching since my first bike when I was 18 (Rtv for a carb gasket=a very expensive kz400!) But I've applied it less the older I've got, as when I moved home I didn't have anywhere for project cars or bikes, and my self control in aquiring them grew. Now that I'm ready to start out again, trying to go more slowly and hopefully properly. It's gonna take me a while to get back in the game.

[RS Thornton]

resist the temptation...

If the bike has been sitting for 5 years and you do not know the history I suggest you go slow.
The following is my approach: I do and oil and oil filter change first, any mc or car oil that is on sale usually, choice not important as I will change it again after a few hours of running time. I use a can of Pennzoil fogging oil and pull the plugs and spray into the cylinders and into the intakes, then turn by hand to make sure everything turns over smooth. By hand, I mean I pull the left side cover and use that nut on the crankshaft to turn it, with tranny in neutral. At the same time I set the cam shaft chain tension.
If it turns over several times smoothly by hand I will put a battery to it and spin it for awhile with the plugs out to prime oil pump and circuit. If it turns over well for a few minutes I will put plugs in and try to start it. I had not pulled cam cover before, but base on what I read I think I would do that from now on and hit that whole top end with fogging oil. It will let you see that everything is working fine. The cost is at most the price of new gasket, but you will know that it works properly and can also take feeler gauges and check valve clearance while in the area.

These bikes are incredibly tough, but taking the extra minutes now might mean avoiding valve or ring problems later.
Good luck,
Scott

[SFerinTEXAS]

What do you expect? Compression test is the only thing to look for in a long sitting engine as a starter. I would lube some mystery oil in the cylinders first. Carb cleaning is a given if the compression is good. While the carbs are off strip the brakes which certainly need doing Of course clean oil and filter before a start test. and from there up who knows.What ever it takes for bliss.

[roadgypsy]

Aye, I need to just take my time and do it right. Part of why I was considering jumping right in is the guy i got it from said it had been stored inside up until about a week before i picked it up covered in snow, and that it would fire when he sprayed carb cleaner in. But that doesn't mean compression or timing. The wiring looks to be a bloody mess as well, the fuse box has been replaced with individual in-line fuse holders and some of the wires a bit raw looking.

[Lonerider62]

Welcome aboard Roadgypsy,
If you are serious about trying to make your new find a genuine rider then you will have to get real familiar with the machine long before you actually ride it. This engine is an interference contraption. If you don't know what that means, it means for all intent that if the cams get out of time with the crank would are SCREWED, and in the worst way because you'll end up with a lot of broken parts including valves, pistons, and possibly even a rod. There are guys on here with a lot more time with the XS than me but after I drove from Michigan to Minnesota and back when I picked the bike up, I did nothing but read everything I could on this forum and the links from this forum. I told the PO that the machine had to start and run or all he'd see of me was my butt going home. It did start and run but very poorly. At least I knew there was something to start with. The PO, I found out later, either didn't know as much as he thought he did or he was telling me a story. I pulled the valve cover, read the valve clearances and checked the cam timing FIRST. When it appeared there was hope afterall, because the cams were in time and none of the valves had zero clearance (but a couple were close, there was a good chance the engine was in good shape. I ended up getting seven out of the eight valve shims to get the valves correct, a new cam chain because the old one was stretched to it's max, rebuild kits for all four carbs, new gas lines, vacuum lines which were bad, and brakes. I payed $1000 for the bike and put another $400 or so into parts and about 140 hours getting it straight in about 3 1/2 weeks. I also changed all fluids, crankcase, mid and rear gear cases. When I was sure everything was ready for countdown I opened the gas petcock, filled the floatbowls, closed my eyes and hit the starter. I don't think it too a complete revolution before it came to life and she purs like a kitten..thanks to many on this forum who gave advice and information and my willngness to do it right and take my time. I do have another bike so getting the XS to run wasn't exactly a necessity. I also bought a Clymer manual, although I did the vast majority of my work from what I was able to get here and other places on the net. The manual is well worth the money and it can act as a document for notes as well and an source of information as you get your ride in shape. Good luck, ask all the questions you can and follow the advice you get on here.

[roadgypsy]

I'm thinking my best bet may be to collect tools and parts till spring, gonna need compression gauges, timing light, feelers, alot of stuff I lost/sold/had stolen over the years. My loose dirt floor shed probably isn't the best enviroment either, better save up and lay some concrete before i start digging into carbs and pulling engine covers. I always get too many things going on at once and half ass them, this is a good project to turn that around on.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Tools

Here where I live Advanced Auto will rent you the tools for a few $$, if so where you live, save your cash for other stuff You don't use a compresion gauge everyday (I never needed one, just plug the hole with your finger, if it got compression, you will know) Just take your time to do the carbs right, make sure all the valves are moving and timming chain is good and set right. These bikes are low tech by todays standards (two valves per cyl, not 5 like the FZRs, pice of cake) Cranking the motor over by hand and checking that everything lines up and moves free and nothing hits, new oil, and fire it up

I'm thinking my best bet may be to collect tools and parts till spring, gonna need compression gauges, timing light, feelers, alot of stuff I lost/sold/had stolen over the years. My loose dirt floor shed probably isn't the best enviroment either, better save up and lay some concrete before i start digging into carbs and pulling engine covers. I always get too many things going on at once and half ass them, this is a good project to turn that around on.

[Rasputin]

I agree with this. If it turns over by hand and your carbs are bench synched, you have spark etc, why not give her a go.
I get a "new to me" one home I check the obvious and make sure the oil is good Throw a set of carbs on it and see if it fires. Often I do not have great compression on all cylinders, but that seems to come back after running them a bit. Personally I think that if I have to oil the cylinders etc just to break it free that it is simply not worth the time. That said to drop some oil in the plug holes before turning it even by hand is a very good idea.
Welcome to the site and good luck with your bike. You are at the right place to find any info you need, or questions you need answered.

QUOTE=XS1100_OEM4ME;350251]Here where I live Advanced Auto will rent you the tools for a few $$, if so where you live, save your cash for other stuff You don't use a compresion gauge everyday (I never needed one, just plug the hole with your finger, if it got compression, you will know) Just take your time to do the carbs right, make sure all the valves are moving and timming chain is good and set right. These bikes are low tech by todays standards (two valves per cyl, not 5 like the FZRs, pice of cake) Cranking the motor over by hand and checking that everything lines up and moves free and nothing hits, new oil, and fire it up[/QUOTE]

[brcree]

ready to go....

Hay Road...if I may........I have a 81 1100 H mod and have turned every nut and bolt on it! Took me about a year and half to sort out the probs it had. This bike sat for 12 years, bad carbs......bad 2nd gear, real mess. My main thing I wanted to say is...I noticed you said you were running air filter pods? I tried them and found that running the fact air box did the trick. The pods are a royal pain when trying to get this bike to run correctly. Unless you have a carb guru near by stay with the air box!