Sourcing rear pads locally

[Danny Crawdad]

Okay, so I think my rear pads came apart. Went on a spirited ride through the mountains today, and notice the rears were sensitive, and pedal lower. Tire would lock easier, and it was groaning. I basically stopped using them and rode on, and on the way home tonight, the rear pedal got lower and lower.

Got home and parked the bike, and there are bits of brake pad stuck to the rotor. I can pick them off with my fingernail , and there is shiny pad dust everywhere.

I haven't pulled the pads yet, but am about to go do so. Any chance I can get these pads locally from a chain auto parts store on a Sunday? I want to ride ride ride . I don't see them at NAPA but their site is a nightmare.

Not sure if the disc is okay or not, it didn't overheat or anything, but it looks ugly with brake pad splatter all over it. Off to pull it apart in the dark

[crazy steve]

...Any chance I can get these pads locally from a chain auto parts store on a Sunday? I want to ride ride ride . I don't see them at NAPA but their site is a nightmare...

I'm sure there's zero chance of any auto parts store having these in stock, and only slightly better chances that they could order them. Best shot will be a metric dealer/repair shop, but I doubt if you'll find one open on sunday...

[Danny Crawdad]

Aw, eBay it is, then. I pulled rear caliper, the pads were down to the metal. Considering I checked them less than 500 miles ago and they worked fine when I last rode the bike, and the ring of pad material stuck to the rear rotor, I think that the pad material came apart from the backing plate while I was on the road.
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Oh well. Rear rotor has some wear in it, but I think I can just order a new set of pads and throw on for now, and take my time sourcing a rotor.

EBC pads the way to go? Or just cheap ones?

Edit: EBC organics are all of $7 more on eBay.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Check the master cyl 1st

Danny, check the master cyl 1st, I had the exact same pedal getting lower and pad burn up about a month ago By the time I got home, hot rotor, metal flake, and no pedal Ended up, the rear master cyl piston had stuck and burned up the brake It had ruined the caliper from the heat. The PO had rebuilt the M/C and left off the rubber dust cove that protects the M/C piston from the weather I had to get a new caliper, rebuild the M/C and find a M/C dust boot If not your problem, You can get the pads expideted from some dealers on Ebay and have them in 1 -3 days, good luck with your bike

Okay, so I think my rear pads came apart. Went on a spirited ride through the mountains today, and notice the rears were sensitive, and pedal lower. Tire would lock easier, and it was groaning. I basically stopped using them and rode on, and on the way home tonight, the rear pedal got lower and lower.

Got home and parked the bike, and there are bits of brake pad stuck to the rotor. I can pick them off with my fingernail , and there is shiny pad dust everywhere.

I haven't pulled the pads yet, but am about to go do so. Any chance I can get these pads locally from a chain auto parts store on a Sunday? I want to ride ride ride . I don't see them at NAPA but their site is a nightmare.

Not sure if the disc is okay or not, it didn't overheat or anything, but it looks ugly with brake pad splatter all over it. Off to pull it apart in the dark

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Ebc

Here is the EBC dealer locator page, just enter your zip to fine the closest on to you

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/asplocator/usa-mc-locator.asp

[Danny Crawdad]

OEM4ME -- I don't think I'm having rear brake drag now, but I did a few months ago -- the spooge hole was blocked and the brakes weren't adjusted right, so there was too much pressure on the master cyl piston at all times. I pulled them completely apart and cleaned the caliper, master cyl, and everything, flushed new fluid through, and all was well, BUT the rears did overheat severely enough to be smoking at least twice. Of course being the dork I am I just put the pads back on them. Think being overheated that severely would have damaged the pad compound?

Haven't had any heat or releasing problems since then (I obsessively check when I'm riding by feeling them and rolling backwards at stoplights), but since I have the calipers off I may as well re-check everything while I have the opportunity. I do have a master cyl rebuild kit ready in the toolbox, I may take it off and do that while the bike is down just to be safe.

Those dust boots are hard to come by, from what I can tell! Where did you end up sourcing the caliper, eBay?



Also, does anyone happen to know the OEM new thickness of a rotor off the top of their head? I know the min spec is 7.5mm, but what should they be new?

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Russell's Speed Shop

These guy's were listed as an EBC dealed in you area, might check with them to see if they got em

http://russellsspeedshop.com/contact.html

[Danny Crawdad]

Awesome, thank you ! I didn't even think of checking EBC's site. I went ahead and ordered some from eBay but I am going to call those guys Monday and see if they have/can get another set. I bet they can get them more quickly than the eBay pair will arrive, and I need a spare set to go in the Bag O' Parts anyway. That shop is about a mile away from my apartment, too.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Boot

Here is the boot for $12.21 +S/H

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...862-51-00.html

I had rebuilt my master cyl a month or so before the burn up, but I didn't have the boot then I didn't take long to stick again without it, so I started all over again, this time with and Ebay caliper and a new kit and boot, works great now

OEM4ME -- I don't think I'm having rear brake drag now, but I did a few months ago -- the spooge hole was blocked and the brakes weren't adjusted right, so there was too much pressure on the master cyl piston at all times. I pulled them completely apart and cleaned the caliper, master cyl, and everything, flushed new fluid through, and all was well, BUT the rears did overheat severely enough to be smoking at least twice. Of course being the dork I am I just put the pads back on them. Think being overheated that severely would have damaged the pad compound?

Haven't had any heat or releasing problems since then (I obsessively check when I'm riding by feeling them and rolling backwards at stoplights), but since I have the calipers off I may as well re-check everything while I have the opportunity. I do have a master cyl rebuild kit ready in the toolbox, I may take it off and do that while the bike is down just to be safe.

Those dust boots are hard to come by, from what I can tell! Where did you end up sourcing the caliper, eBay?



Also, does anyone happen to know the OEM new thickness of a rotor off the top of their head? I know the min spec is 7.5mm, but what should they be new?

[jetmechmarty]

XS650 front pads work in the XS11 rear caliper. The compound might be a bit too agressive, but they are readily available.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Rotor

From a Crazy Steve post: "Factory limits are minimum thickness: 6.5mm or .260" and runout > .15mm or .006"

OEM4ME -- I don't think I'm having rear brake drag now, but I did a few months ago -- the spooge hole was blocked and the brakes weren't adjusted right, so there was too much pressure on the master cyl piston at all times. I pulled them completely apart and cleaned the caliper, master cyl, and everything, flushed new fluid through, and all was well, BUT the rears did overheat severely enough to be smoking at least twice. Of course being the dork I am I just put the pads back on them. Think being overheated that severely would have damaged the pad compound?

Haven't had any heat or releasing problems since then (I obsessively check when I'm riding by feeling them and rolling backwards at stoplights), but since I have the calipers off I may as well re-check everything while I have the opportunity. I do have a master cyl rebuild kit ready in the toolbox, I may take it off and do that while the bike is down just to be safe.

Those dust boots are hard to come by, from what I can tell! Where did you end up sourcing the caliper, eBay?



Also, does anyone happen to know the OEM new thickness of a rotor off the top of their head? I know the min spec is 7.5mm, but what should they be new?

[crazy steve]

Also, does anyone happen to know the OEM new thickness of a rotor off the top of their head? I know the min spec is 7.5mm, but what should they be new?

Yamaha doesn't give a 'new' spec, but the majority of rotors I've personally measured have been between .270-.275". I've never seen one thicker than that, typical is around .270-.272".

[Danny Crawdad]

Awesome, thank you for the info everyone! I found an inexpensive slotted rear disc that mic'ed out at 6.91mm (~.272"), so it is evidently pretty close to stock spec. My previous post should have said 6.5mm. I blame the bourbon.