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  • #1

    Sourcing rear pads locally

    Okay, so I think my rear pads came apart. Went on a spirited ride through the mountains today, and notice the rears were sensitive, and pedal lower. Tire would lock easier, and it was groaning. I basically stopped using them and rode on, and on the way home tonight, the rear pedal got lower and lower.

    Got home and parked the bike, and there are bits of brake pad stuck to the rotor. I can pick them off with my fingernail , and there is shiny pad dust everywhere.

    I haven't pulled the pads yet, but am about to go do so. Any chance I can get these pads locally from a chain auto parts store on a Sunday? I want to ride ride ride . I don't see them at NAPA but their site is a nightmare.

    Not sure if the disc is okay or not, it didn't overheat or anything, but it looks ugly with brake pad splatter all over it. Off to pull it apart in the dark
    XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

    Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Originally posted by Danny Crawdad View Post
    ...Any chance I can get these pads locally from a chain auto parts store on a Sunday? I want to ride ride ride . I don't see them at NAPA but their site is a nightmare...
    I'm sure there's zero chance of any auto parts store having these in stock, and only slightly better chances that they could order them. Best shot will be a metric dealer/repair shop, but I doubt if you'll find one open on sunday...
    Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

    '78E original owner - resto project
    '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
    '82 XJ rebuild project
    '80SG restified, red SOLD
    '79F parts...
    '81H more parts...

    Other current bikes:
    '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
    '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
    '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
    Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
    Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

    Comment

    • #3
      Aw, eBay it is, then. I pulled rear caliper, the pads were down to the metal. Considering I checked them less than 500 miles ago and they worked fine when I last rode the bike, and the ring of pad material stuck to the rear rotor, I think that the pad material came apart from the backing plate while I was on the road.
      `
      Oh well. Rear rotor has some wear in it, but I think I can just order a new set of pads and throw on for now, and take my time sourcing a rotor.

      EBC pads the way to go? Or just cheap ones?

      Edit: EBC organics are all of $7 more on eBay.
      Last edited by Danny Crawdad; 11-19-2011, 08:41 PM.
      XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

      Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.

      Comment

      • #4
        Check the master cyl 1st

        Danny, check the master cyl 1st, I had the exact same pedal getting lower and pad burn up about a month ago By the time I got home, hot rotor, metal flake, and no pedal Ended up, the rear master cyl piston had stuck and burned up the brake It had ruined the caliper from the heat. The PO had rebuilt the M/C and left off the rubber dust cove that protects the M/C piston from the weather I had to get a new caliper, rebuild the M/C and find a M/C dust boot If not your problem, You can get the pads expideted from some dealers on Ebay and have them in 1 -3 days, good luck with your bike

        Originally posted by Danny Crawdad View Post
        Okay, so I think my rear pads came apart. Went on a spirited ride through the mountains today, and notice the rears were sensitive, and pedal lower. Tire would lock easier, and it was groaning. I basically stopped using them and rode on, and on the way home tonight, the rear pedal got lower and lower.

        Got home and parked the bike, and there are bits of brake pad stuck to the rotor. I can pick them off with my fingernail , and there is shiny pad dust everywhere.

        I haven't pulled the pads yet, but am about to go do so. Any chance I can get these pads locally from a chain auto parts store on a Sunday? I want to ride ride ride . I don't see them at NAPA but their site is a nightmare.

        Not sure if the disc is okay or not, it didn't overheat or anything, but it looks ugly with brake pad splatter all over it. Off to pull it apart in the dark
        Last edited by XS1100_OEM4ME; 11-19-2011, 08:42 PM.
        1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
        1980 XS1100 Special
        1990 V Max
        1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
        1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
        1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
        1974 CB750-Four



        Past/pres Car's
        1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

        Comment

        • #5
          Ebc

          Here is the EBC dealer locator page, just enter your zip to fine the closest on to you

          http://www.ebcbrakes.com/asplocator/usa-mc-locator.asp
          1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
          1980 XS1100 Special
          1990 V Max
          1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
          1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
          1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
          1974 CB750-Four



          Past/pres Car's
          1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

          Comment

          • #6
            OEM4ME -- I don't think I'm having rear brake drag now, but I did a few months ago -- the spooge hole was blocked and the brakes weren't adjusted right, so there was too much pressure on the master cyl piston at all times. I pulled them completely apart and cleaned the caliper, master cyl, and everything, flushed new fluid through, and all was well, BUT the rears did overheat severely enough to be smoking at least twice. Of course being the dork I am I just put the pads back on them. Think being overheated that severely would have damaged the pad compound?

            Haven't had any heat or releasing problems since then (I obsessively check when I'm riding by feeling them and rolling backwards at stoplights), but since I have the calipers off I may as well re-check everything while I have the opportunity. I do have a master cyl rebuild kit ready in the toolbox, I may take it off and do that while the bike is down just to be safe.

            Those dust boots are hard to come by, from what I can tell! Where did you end up sourcing the caliper, eBay?



            Also, does anyone happen to know the OEM new thickness of a rotor off the top of their head? I know the min spec is 7.5mm, but what should they be new?
            Last edited by Danny Crawdad; 11-19-2011, 09:18 PM.
            XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

            Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.

            Comment

            • #7
              Russell's Speed Shop

              These guy's were listed as an EBC dealed in you area, might check with them to see if they got em

              http://russellsspeedshop.com/contact.html
              1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
              1980 XS1100 Special
              1990 V Max
              1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
              1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
              1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
              1974 CB750-Four



              Past/pres Car's
              1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

              Comment

              • #8
                Awesome, thank you ! I didn't even think of checking EBC's site. I went ahead and ordered some from eBay but I am going to call those guys Monday and see if they have/can get another set. I bet they can get them more quickly than the eBay pair will arrive, and I need a spare set to go in the Bag O' Parts anyway. That shop is about a mile away from my apartment, too.
                XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

                Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Boot

                  Here is the boot for $12.21 +S/H

                  http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...862-51-00.html

                  I had rebuilt my master cyl a month or so before the burn up, but I didn't have the boot then I didn't take long to stick again without it, so I started all over again, this time with and Ebay caliper and a new kit and boot, works great now
                  Originally posted by Danny Crawdad View Post
                  OEM4ME -- I don't think I'm having rear brake drag now, but I did a few months ago -- the spooge hole was blocked and the brakes weren't adjusted right, so there was too much pressure on the master cyl piston at all times. I pulled them completely apart and cleaned the caliper, master cyl, and everything, flushed new fluid through, and all was well, BUT the rears did overheat severely enough to be smoking at least twice. Of course being the dork I am I just put the pads back on them. Think being overheated that severely would have damaged the pad compound?

                  Haven't had any heat or releasing problems since then (I obsessively check when I'm riding by feeling them and rolling backwards at stoplights), but since I have the calipers off I may as well re-check everything while I have the opportunity. I do have a master cyl rebuild kit ready in the toolbox, I may take it off and do that while the bike is down just to be safe.

                  Those dust boots are hard to come by, from what I can tell! Where did you end up sourcing the caliper, eBay?



                  Also, does anyone happen to know the OEM new thickness of a rotor off the top of their head? I know the min spec is 7.5mm, but what should they be new?
                  1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
                  1980 XS1100 Special
                  1990 V Max
                  1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
                  1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
                  1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
                  1974 CB750-Four



                  Past/pres Car's
                  1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    XS650 front pads work in the XS11 rear caliper. The compound might be a bit too agressive, but they are readily available.
                    Marty (in Mississippi)
                    XS1100SG
                    XS650SK
                    XS650SH
                    XS650G
                    XS6502F
                    XS650E

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Rotor

                      From a Crazy Steve post: "Factory limits are minimum thickness: 6.5mm or .260" and runout > .15mm or .006"

                      Originally posted by Danny Crawdad View Post
                      OEM4ME -- I don't think I'm having rear brake drag now, but I did a few months ago -- the spooge hole was blocked and the brakes weren't adjusted right, so there was too much pressure on the master cyl piston at all times. I pulled them completely apart and cleaned the caliper, master cyl, and everything, flushed new fluid through, and all was well, BUT the rears did overheat severely enough to be smoking at least twice. Of course being the dork I am I just put the pads back on them. Think being overheated that severely would have damaged the pad compound?

                      Haven't had any heat or releasing problems since then (I obsessively check when I'm riding by feeling them and rolling backwards at stoplights), but since I have the calipers off I may as well re-check everything while I have the opportunity. I do have a master cyl rebuild kit ready in the toolbox, I may take it off and do that while the bike is down just to be safe.

                      Those dust boots are hard to come by, from what I can tell! Where did you end up sourcing the caliper, eBay?



                      Also, does anyone happen to know the OEM new thickness of a rotor off the top of their head? I know the min spec is 7.5mm, but what should they be new?
                      Last edited by XS1100_OEM4ME; 11-19-2011, 11:03 PM.
                      1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
                      1980 XS1100 Special
                      1990 V Max
                      1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
                      1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
                      1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
                      1974 CB750-Four



                      Past/pres Car's
                      1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Danny Crawdad View Post
                        Also, does anyone happen to know the OEM new thickness of a rotor off the top of their head? I know the min spec is 7.5mm, but what should they be new?
                        Yamaha doesn't give a 'new' spec, but the majority of rotors I've personally measured have been between .270-.275". I've never seen one thicker than that, typical is around .270-.272".
                        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                        '78E original owner - resto project
                        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                        '82 XJ rebuild project
                        '80SG restified, red SOLD
                        '79F parts...
                        '81H more parts...

                        Other current bikes:
                        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Awesome, thank you for the info everyone! I found an inexpensive slotted rear disc that mic'ed out at 6.91mm (~.272"), so it is evidently pretty close to stock spec. My previous post should have said 6.5mm. I blame the bourbon.
                          XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

                          Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.

                          Comment

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