Cam Tension-er /cam timing ?

[Bikerbear]

[QUOTE=petejw;347011]ive done the same mod as phil for the tensioner,
i just used a bolt and a rubber o ring behind the washer,
have done it on 3 of my engines,
the side bolt in the pic does nothing more than preventing oil from coming out.
and u just need to be careful not to overtighten the chain.
workes really well.

I found the quote button after my last post. So how much tension should I use to insure I don't overtighten the chain?

[petejw]

remove the valve cover,
then i grab hold of the center chain guide between the cams
and pull it up enough so i can just pull it out of the head.

[guycom]

Cam Tension-er /cam timing ?

Hi I have taken the advise and checked the cam timing after removing and sealing the cam tensioner. Looks like someone has been in there before some scratches on one of the cam gear faces.. But the thing that puzzles me is that with the cam dots lined up with the arrows on the bearing caps the timing is at 15 degrees. Also found oil by the timing marks and suspect a seal needs replacing. Thanks so much for the advice and support...Guy

[GLoweVA]

With the dots lines up the timing should be at TDC. the T on the timing mark on the advance mechanism.
15deg is WAY OFF. Is yout timing plate lined up right?
I guess the only way to know for sure is to rotate engine until cylinder one is actually at TDC. (Use some kind of mesauring device/stick to make sure you're at TDC then make sure the timing mark is correct, then check the alignment on the cams (dots and arrows)

[guycom]

will do

Ill check cylinder one is at tdc great idea is there a sel on the crank that I can change like the one on the alt side? Thank you

[guycom]

Sorry typo 'that was seal' I have oil on the under timing advance cover

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Guy,

First, I merged your previous thread with this one since it the same topic, we request folks keep using their original thread for posts/replies, etc., so folks can see what has already been talked about, done, suggested, tried, etc., without having to span several threads on the same topic from the same original poster!

Yes, the left crank side has a set of seals similar to the right side, there has been a post by JOHN regarding the technique, which seals to get, since IIRC, they have an internal lip, but can still be pried out, and replaced without having to split the cases! A search for crank seal should reveal it.

Yea, sounds like you may have been PO'd, but hopefully the valves haven't gotten bent, you would be best to just pull the bearing caps and cams to prevent any accidental bending of valves until you can get it put back in proper valve timing. You will need to loosen the CCT lock bolt to allow enough slack in the chain after you loosen the bearing caps, so that you can slip the chain over the cam sprocket teeth while rotating the cams to get the dots realigned...once you have the crank at TDC.

You'll need to keep tension on the cam chain so it doesn't drop down around the crank sprocket and get between the sprocket and crank, folks use a bungy cord or such pulling up on the chain for this.

The problem with wanting or trying to remove/loosen the cam sprockets is that you have to rotate them 180 degrees to be able to get at BOTH bolts, hard to do without rotating the engine/crank, that's why I suggested the cam bearing journals be loosened to remove tension on the valves=retract away from the pistons while turning the crank to get it to TDC.

Then once the cam dots and crank TDC are together, reinstall/tighten the CCT bolt/locknut, then perform the CCT tensioner adjustment, retighten, and then would highly suggest a compression test. You can inspect the cams and check the valve clearances prior to doing this once you get them back in time, if you find extreme clearances, that can be in indication of a bent valve not returning/retracting fully back into the head! That cylinder will have little or no compression during the test! IF any bent valves found, then it's OFF WITH IT's HEAD anyways to fix that! Good Luck.

T.C.

[natemoen]

So you are saying the dots both line up together but the pointer under the timing cover doesn't line up right?

If so, check tdc before doing anything drastic. That little metal timing pointer is not too sturdy and often gets bent..

[guycom]

Nathan got it

Timing pointer was bent and loose...I used a pencil in #1 cylinder to find tdc and set it there, although I am going to be pulling it apart to replace seal. wow that piston tdc position is close to the head guess its high comp. Thanks all for the help

[GLoweVA]

I'm glad that your timing was good.
Yeah the clearence in there is kinda tight.
Keep us posted on how the seal replacement goes. I might have to do that soon too.