Simplified Wiring Harness ...

['OlGuiltyBoy]

What do you guys think about this harness ??? Mainly the fuse sizes, as I somewhat recall there is a 10amp fuse (2 of them) on that bike somewhere, dont remember what they were for though. Here's the link ...

http://oldschoolbobbers.com/all-1569...s_CV_4869.html

['OlGuiltyBoy]

Heres one with the diagram on it :

http://www.cyclevisions.com/index.ph...ss-cv4869.html

[skids]

Why would you want to re-engineer the whole wiring loom? Geez, that would be more of a headache than rewiring a selected troublesome component. That is a lot of money for that. Think of all of the connections on the bike...

['OlGuiltyBoy]

Why would you want to re-engineer the whole wiring loom? Geez, that would be more of a headache than rewiring a selected troublesome component. That is a lot of money for that. Think of all of the connections on the bike...

Pretty much because I plan on running with the bare minimum ... All we need in VA is headlights and tail lights. AND that bike is over 30 years old, why not replace ancient wiring technology with some up to date stuff ...

[cywelchjr]

Pretty much because I plan on running with the bare minimum ... All we need in VA is headlights and tail lights. AND that bike is over 30 years old, why not replace ancient wiring technology with some up to date stuff ...

Doesn't appear that it's designed for electronic TCI ignition from what I can see, so you would have to build that part of the harness yourself. Additionally I don't see any oil light or the like, and with this old engine I would want SOMETHING for warning for oil pressure loss, at least an oil pressure gauge if not the light. I can understand the desire for minimalist on that, that's someone after fredintoon's heart, but with a 32 year old + engine I would want some sort of oil pressure monitoring.

Plus your going to need the wires for the charging system as well. That's going to take another 14 or so wires that don't appear to be there.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jay,

A fellow found this wiring diagram on the german site IIRC, it's supposed to be the minimum the XS11 can have and still function, just headlight, tail light, horn, TCI and charging system, etc.! Hope it helps!



You can click on it to enlarge, and then right click to save to your computer!

T.C.

[crazy steve]

I've got to agree with Cy; that aftermarket harness has more needed wires missing than what's there. The basic XS harness isn't bad, it's the fuse block and switches/connections that go bad (unless a PO has hacked it into a mess), so repairing/replacing those will be easier than trying to mash that aftermarket system together with the ignition/charging wires...

['OlGuiltyBoy]

Hey Jay,

A fellow found this wiring diagram on the german site IIRC, it's supposed to be the minimum the XS11 can have and still function, just headlight, tail light, horn, TCI and charging system, etc.! Hope it helps!



You can click on it to enlarge, and then right click to save to your computer!

T.C.

Funny, I cant see the link unless I copy your quote to respond. And then when I copy and paste the page is blocked. I am at work, so they have some crazy filters on the internet.

['OlGuiltyBoy]

Also, I hear that when doing a harness build for these bikes, you'd want to use at least a 16g wire for everything. Is that correct? And yes, to whomever commented about the current harness (cant remember), the previous owner did splice up some parts doing god knows what ... so I'd also rather have a "complete" harness with no splices and twists with duct tape in it. Oh yea, and its old ... (I think I said that already)

[crazy steve]

A harness has got to be pretty badly hacked before I would completely discard it.... and at $150+ for at best only a partial harness (the aftermarket one you're looking at), I think I would repair what I had first. Bike harnesses aren't exposed to underhood heat like automotive wiring is, so unless there's been major failures, the wire itself should still be good. A properly done splice is as good as the original wire.

Wire size? Yes, at least a 16 gauge for most circuits, but step up to a 12 gauge for the feed to/from the ignition switch and as the main feed to the fuse panel. I'd personally also use this size for the output from the regulator back to the battery. One place where Yamaha cut corners in the original harness (IMO) is the grounding; I'd install a 'main' ground wire (12g) then tap off of this for the individual devices.

['OlGuiltyBoy]

A harness has got to be pretty badly hacked before I would completely discard it.... and at $150+ for at best only a partial harness (the aftermarket one you're looking at), I think I would repair what I had first. Bike harnesses aren't exposed to underhood heat like automotive wiring is, so unless there's been major failures, the wire itself should still be good. A properly done splice is as good as the original wire.

Wire size? Yes, at least a 16 gauge for most circuits, but step up to a 12 gauge for the feed to/from the ignition switch and as the main feed to the fuse panel. I'd personally also use this size for the output from the regulator back to the battery. One place where Yamaha cut corners in the original harness (IMO) is the grounding; I'd install a 'main' ground wire (12g) then tap off of this for the individual devices.

Meaning everything that needs to be grounded can be run to that "main", right? I was thinking about that, but wasnt sure if that could be done.

[crazy steve]

Meaning everything that needs to be grounded can be run to that "main", right? I was thinking about that, but wasnt sure if that could be done.

Yes, everything can go to the 'main' ground. The OEM harness isn't a bad one (it's typical of most vehicle harnesses), but they didn't put anything more than the minimum on there either. There's several 'design flaws' in the XS harness IMO, and the multiple ground points (depending on connections to the steel frame which are subject to corrosion) is one of them. Just make sure it's of adequate size (which is why I'd use a 12 gauge), take it back to the negative battery cable, then tap off with 16 gauge to the individual bits.

The other 'big' flaw is locating the main alternator connections next to the battery; while the battery is supposedly 'sealed' (vented under the bike or if you have a modern 'sealed' battery), a battery will still outgas some corrosive gas, and over enough time this will damage those plug connections....

['OlGuiltyBoy]

Yes, everything can go to the 'main' ground. The OEM harness isn't a bad one (it's typical of most vehicle harnesses), but they didn't put anything more than the minimum on there either. There's several 'design flaws' in the XS harness IMO, and the multiple ground points (depending on connections to the steel frame which are subject to corrosion) is one of them. Just make sure it's of adequate size (which is why I'd use a 12 gauge), take it back to the negative battery cable, then tap off with 16 gauge to the individual bits.

The other 'big' flaw is locating the main alternator connections next to the battery; while the battery is supposedly 'sealed' (vented under the bike or if you have a modern 'sealed' battery), a battery will still outgas some corrosive gas, and over enough time this will damage those plug connections....

I have yet to read the electrical section of my clymer as you can probably tell by now, been focusing on cosmetic stuff ... But cant you easily relocate that connection by the battery ... Even somewhat enclose the battery with some adequate "venting"? Even in your opinion that thing is flawed and f-ed, so that's even more of a reason for me to wanna change it....

[crazy steve]

You might look at Deutch connectors (http://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-conn...r=12&Series=DT) to replace the OEM ones; that's what I plan to use on my next project. A bit pricey, but they're actually sealed so you have a lot more latitude in where you put them.

The temptation to hard-wire this stuff can be strong, but makes for nasty servicing later....

['OlGuiltyBoy]

Cool site Steve, I'll keep that one in mind...