Simplified Wiring Harness ...

['OlGuiltyBoy]

So here I am again ... Have my bike all put back together, and the s.o.b. won't start. I'm running no speedometer, no instrument cluster whatsoever. I only have a headlight and a tail light. With that being said can I run my own wires to the fuse box that I bought from TC to the starter, ignition and ground it to the negative side and be done with it? In my head I don't see why not, but I want to be sure before I yank the harness out. I don't see a use for all those boxes and **** if I have nothing but lights on the bike.

[natemoen]

Well you need all the wires that go to and from the tci, pickup coils, and stator.

['OlGuiltyBoy]

Well you need all the wires that go to and from the tci, pickup coils, and stator.

Right. Those as well, the essentials to make the engine turn I know are necessary. Other than that it shouldn't be a problem right.

[Nightengale]

same

Right. Those as well, the essentials to make the engine turn I know are necessary. Other than that it shouldn't be a problem right.

i am in the process of doing the same thing on my project, but i am just deleting things on the harness that i dont need. i have headlight, tail light, also left wires for turnsignals in case i want to add them later, and speedometer , and thats it. just seemed easier to me since i have never really done much wiring, and my harness was unmolested, and looked to be in great shape. but i will have to say i does take some time to follow all those wires. its about to drive me crazy. this thread is helping me alot.

['OlGuiltyBoy]

i am in the process of doing the same thing on my project, but i am just deleting things on the harness that i dont need. i have headlight, tail light, also left wires for turnsignals in case i want to add them later, and speedometer , and thats it. just seemed easier to me since i have never really done much wiring, and my harness was unmolested, and looked to be in great shape. but i will have to say i does take some time to follow all those wires. its about to drive me crazy. this thread is helping me alot.

http://cycles.evanfell.com/2010/03/s...d-cafe-racers/

This is a site I came across not too long ago. Just the basics. I'm going to order some 12 gauge wire, I have a fuse box coming from TC who's on the site and built a harness myself. I'll be riding by next weekend!

[TomB]

Hey Jay,

A fellow found this wiring diagram on the german site IIRC, it's supposed to be the minimum the XS11 can have and still function, just headlight, tail light, horn, TCI and charging system, etc.! Hope it helps!



You can click on it to enlarge, and then right click to save to your computer!

T.C.

Thats one of my wiring diagrams, its not the minimum an XS can have and still function, it still uses 2H9/2H7 clocks and idiot lights, I have recently posted a chop wiring diagram with much less wiring and functions.

[Lonerider62]

I highly doubt that harness in the add will ever get you a running bike, ever! The one psted by TomB will most likely get you on track. If you get a copy of the original wiring diagram, you can see what grounds are common and where they originate and terminate, same for the hot side and signals that flow between the various sensors and other elements in the electrical train. Leaving out any particular part may have negative impacts on others because of a loss of ground or hot sides. Starting with a stock harness and eliminating legs individually, followed by a test will tell you what actually happens to the electrical system, as a whole, when a single leg is eliminated. As far as wiring a new harness is concerned, it's a big job and to do it right, it's best done on the bike so you know if any particular wire will make it to it's desired destination. The following link may have far more info than needed, but it does have a lot of information as far as wire gauge, resistance, etc is concerned. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/America...wire_AWG_sizes

['OlGuiltyBoy]

I highly doubt that harness in the add will ever get you a running bike, ever! The one psted by TomB will most likely get you on track. If you get a copy of the original wiring diagram, you can see what grounds are common and where they originate and terminate, same for the hot side and signals that flow between the various sensors and other elements in the electrical train. Leaving out any particular part may have negative impacts on others because of a loss of ground or hot sides. Starting with a stock harness and eliminating legs individually, followed by a test will tell you what actually happens to the electrical system, as a whole, when a single leg is eliminated. As far as wiring a new harness is concerned, it's a big job and to do it right, it's best done on the bike so you know if any particular wire will make it to it's desired destination. The following link may have far more info than needed, but it does have a lot of information as far as wire gauge, resistance, etc is concerned. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/America...wire_AWG_sizes

Thats what I plan on doing, wiring it on the bike. Im not going to buy a pre made harness when I can do it mysellf for so much cheaper. I think im just going to go with some 16 gauge wire.

[crazy steve]

...I think im just going to go with some 16 gauge wire.

16 will be adequate for some items, but definitely too small for others. You'll want #12 to/from the ignition switch, for the ground and 12V output from the regulator to the battery. At least #14 for the stator wiring. Depending on how you run your ground wiring, I'd run that in at least #14, maybe 12 if you're planning on 'tapping' the ground for individual bits.

I've built a few harnesses, and I'll tell you straight-up it's far easier to mod an existing harness than it is build one from scratch. Cheaper too... If I don't have a stock harness, I'll try to get one before building one.

I've never quite understood the rational for 'stripping' a harness for 'simplicity'. Even if going down to the bare legal equipment needed, the number of wires you'll remove from the main harness won't be all that many and the weight saving will be negligible. I've found that simply removing any unwanted parts (relays, etc) and bypassing their function and/or abandoning the wiring in place is much, much easier. Even if you're relocating some components, it's still easier to split the harness and pull/extend just those wires to their new location rather than trying to redo the whole thing...

[TomB]

I've never quite understood the rational for 'stripping' a harness for 'simplicity'. Even if going down to the bare legal equipment needed, the number of wires you'll remove from the main harness won't be all that many and the weight saving will be negligible. I've found that simply removing any unwanted parts (relays, etc) and bypassing their function and/or abandoning the wiring in place is much, much easier. Even if you're relocating some components, it's still easier to split the harness and pull/extend just those wires to their new location rather than trying to redo the whole thing...

+1

If electrical components are staying roughly where they should be definitely use a Yamaha loom to work from and keep intact.

The reason for drawing up the basic wiring diagrams in my case was to make looms, one of those being the monoshocked bike I did, where components had moved that much that it was easier to make a new loom than modify an existing loom.

I use 1mm for most wiring including H4 headlight, only 1.5mm for ignition switch, battery and fuse (brown, red)

[crazy steve]

I use 1mm for most wiring including H4 headlight, only 1.5mm for ignition switch, battery and fuse (brown, red)

That's a problem here too; Yamaha used metric-sized wire and there aren't any direct equivilents in AWG sizes as found here. Yamaha (like most manufacturers) only used bare-minimum sized wire in these to start with; sometimes a bit too small from the number of melted connectors/wires I've seen. Going smaller is a bad idea, but it can be tough to figure out what size 'matches' what's there if you're not aware of the difference.

[TomB]

I wasn't sure what wire size to go with so I measured the original wire sizes of my other XS's loom and copied them, apart from my standard bikes' generator terminal block being a bit melted I've had no problems with over heated wire. And don't forget the terminal block melting is the spades (mostly through corrosion/verdigris) giving problems not the wire size.

Sorry if I quote metric sizes, its what I'm used to now, I served my time Toolmaking in Imperial + Metric but work as a Mech Fitter now on a Pharmaceutical site where everything is metric (ironically everything is spec'd by the F+DA of US )

['OlGuiltyBoy]

I don't mind spending $50 on more than enough wire to make the exact harness I need. I don't see any sense in just having wires hanging over my bike that go to absolutely nothing.


You mean to tell me that this simple picture is "too much/too hard" to build or "not enough to make a bike run" ??!! You guys are killing me here.

['OlGuiltyBoy]

http://cycles.evanfell.com/wp-conten..._Evan_Fell.png

[BA80]

If it's that simple then why so much discussion.

Get the wire, rip out the harness and git-er-done. Make it "your own".