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  • #16
    Originally posted by XSive_speed View Post
    I've thought about changing the MC for a while to get more breaking power, but I'm not sure about the idea of using the special MC. Maybe somebody can explain a bit more.
    There's no functional difference between the 'special' and 'standard' front master cylinders; both have the same 11/16" bore size. There's some design differences (angled reservoir, how it's attached to the body), but they're all basically the same part. So swapping one for the other will have no effect on braking performance.

    The exception is the '81 MNS and the XJ; these feature that 'linked' (or 'split') braking system where the rear master controls the rear brake and one front caliper, the handlebar master operates only one front brake. Totally different system, with virtually all parts being different. The smaller MNS/XJ front master will not have enough volume to operate two front calipers, so don't try it....

    If you're looking for a brake upgrade, braided lines and maybe trying some different pads are about your only choices. You could try that smaller-bore master that Mikes sells (16mm bore vs about 17.5mm stock) to change the feel of the brakes, but it won't really change actual performance. You might think about drilled/slotted rotors, otherwise a caliper swap will be called for and that's a whole 'nother can of worms...
    Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

    '78E original owner - resto project
    '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
    '82 XJ rebuild project
    '80SG restified, red SOLD
    '79F parts...
    '81H more parts...

    Other current bikes:
    '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
    '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
    '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
    Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
    Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Eveready1100 View Post
      Hi Jay. If you're looking for more braking power from the front, and are already looking at a new master cylinder, get one for a Special, as it's smaller bore will increase the pressure in the calipers. If you combine that with braided lines, you'll have more braking power than you would expect from the stock bits. Plus you'll save a bundle.
      Trust me, they work well!
      Only the non-US models have those different-bore front master cylinders; all models (again, except for the LH/XJ with it's split brakes) sold in the US used the same 11/16" bore....
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
        Only the non-US models have those different-bore front master cylinders; all models (again, except for the LH/XJ with it's split brakes) sold in the US used the same 11/16" bore....
        But he is right that a smaller bore on the master cylinder will increase the pressure to the braking system and increase braking power and the price of increased lever movement, which is why there is a limit to how much you can change the size without trouble. That's one way a caliper swap can help too, cause larger caliper pistons have the same affect, it's all standard hydraulic theory, small piston diameter piston driving larger diameter piston increases force at the cost of needing more movement, and the other direction larger diameter to smaller uses less movement to get more at the cost of more force, so it depends on your needs, your either multiplying your power, or movement.

        Look as your floor jack, it works the same way, small piston that pushes a large one, it just has a one way valve to let you push it repeatedly.
        Cy

        1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
        Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
        Vetter Windjammer IV
        Vetter hard bags & Trunk
        OEM Luggage Rack
        Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
        Spade Fuse Box
        Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
        750 FD Mod
        TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
        XJ1100 Front Footpegs
        XJ1100 Shocks

        I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

        Comment


        • #19
          I guess I'm going to have to factor in a US / Others descrepancy percentage in my posts from here on in. I just figured that my 3H3 SF had the original brake setup on it when I bought it. With only 18,000klms on it, why should I have thought otherwise?
          Ok, here's my info. It's got a 5/8th Nissin M/C on it. First up, with original flexy lines, braking was weak, the lever could readily be pulled into the twistgrip with a good squeeze.
          When I had to temporarily swap the forks over, there was a massive change to the power with the standard calipers fitted. Much stronger despite the lines still swelling when pressure was applied.
          Got my forks fixed, so back on went the original Special brakes, and on my first ride, overshot the junction at the end of my street with the main highway. Luckily, no one was coming as I flew through the intersection.
          Ordered as set of braided lines that night, and when fitted, totally transformed the power I could get from those brakes. Not grabby at all. Maybe the lever travel might be longer than what is considered the norm, but compared to my bike with the old lines, it's a long way short of where I could pull it back to previously.
          79 SF Special W/ Stock all original motor @ 384,000klms
          Stock exhaust, stock airbox, XJ sump, 78E carbs, Xs1100RH seat, Bosch superhorns, 5/8ths front M/c, braided lines, sintered SBS pads, drilled discs, progressive springs, 8" 50w HID headlight 4300K, 2 x 50w HID spiral driving lights, KONI shocks, Spade fuse box
          *Touring mode - Plexistar 2 screen, Gearsack rack & bag & saddlebags, homebuilt towbar
          *"The Keg"- UC torana hubs, XS11 discs, Tokico 4 spot calipers

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by crazy steve View Post

            The exception is the '81 MNS and the XJ; these feature that 'linked' (or 'split') braking system where the rear master controls the rear brake and one front caliper, the handlebar master operates only one front brake. Totally different system, with virtually all parts being different. The smaller MNS/XJ front master will not have enough volume to operate two front calipers, so don't try it.....
            steve, i know we discussed this a little in the other thread,
            the m/c on my bike is the same as the mns and xj,
            there is no problem with using that size bore for a m/c on our bikes.
            the m/c operates both front callipers and arent linked like the
            other 2 models. the lever also has an adjuster for the levers freeplay
            which i only recently found out the other models dont have.
            It works that well i wouldnt bother updating them.
            heres a pic

            Last edited by petejw; 10-20-2011, 08:41 PM.
            pete


            new owner of
            08 gen2 hayabusa


            former owner
            1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
            zrx carbs
            18mm float height
            145 main jets
            38 pilots
            slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
            fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

            [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

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