Just installed these front and rear on my 1100SG - why in the world would anybody NOT use these?? Maybe 5 minutes to flush all lines and push new fluid through. All by my onesies - no fuss, no muss, no farting around. Just for your info.
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Speed Bleeders
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Speed Bleeders
1980 XS 1100 Special
Mostly stock & original
Added Yamaha fairing (w/ 8-track!)
Torpedo bags
New paint (still) pending
Stainless brake lines
Tkat forkbrace
Coils from Honda 1000
Previous bikes:
1968(?) 350 Harley Davidson
1977 Yamaha 650Tags: None
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The downside to them is that if your lines are empty, there isn't enough pressure to activate them. They work if your lines are already full though. I find that the $5 one-man bleeder kit from Harbor Freight works just as well though, and even works with empty lines.1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
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I have the speed bleeders too; they're great. I also saved my old bleeders for filling the system when it's empty. I bought a pump that will push the brake fluid in through the bleeder, so you fill the lines from the bottom, and force most of the air out the master cylinder. Once it's full, I replace the old bleeders with the speed bleeders, and push out any air that stayed in the caliper.'80 SG with motor from a '82 XJ
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Seeing as I can operate the level with one hand and the bleeder nut with the other, I don't see any need for speed bleeders. Plus, I use the catch tanks from Motive Pro (pressure bleeder for my four wheeled vehicles) and they keep any are from getting back into the system when you release the lever anyway.
The last time I flushed the system, I just connected the catch tank to the bleed nipple, drained the old fluid out of the reservoir, topped it up with new fluid, cracked the bleed nipple, then pumped the handle until clean, fresh fluid was flowing out of the bleeder. No fuss. No muss. And no requirement for speed bleeders either.-- Clint
1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989
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Originally posted by BigRed View PostI bought a pump that will push the brake fluid in through the bleeder, so you fill the lines from the bottom, and force most of the air out the master cylinder. Once it's full, I replace the old bleeders with the speed bleeders, and push out any air that stayed in the caliper.Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Originally posted by clcorbin View PostSeeing as I can operate the level with one hand and the bleeder nut with the other, I don't see any need for speed bleeders.
Besides I already have Speed Bleeders, they're aged 20 and 24 right now and they keep coming back for more.1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
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I got a set and dont usually have hard time bleeding brakes without them but they do make it easier.1980 XS1100 SG
Inline fuel filters
New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
160 mph speedometer mod
Kerker Exhaust
xschop K & N air filter setup
Dynojet Recalibration kit
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed
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