Rainy day blues

[B.B.]

Ok thanks guys. I am sure this is my problem. As I mentioned in my first post I broke off the bottom half of the metal holder that held my ignition fuse. This is were the red/white wire connects. At the time i was checking the fuses because I was not getting lights or anything. Thanks again for all the help. I will try to order a fuse box from TC.

[B.B.]

very frustrated

Ok thanks guys. I am sure this is my problem. As I mentioned in my first post I broke off the bottom half of the metal holder that held my ignition fuse. This is were the red/white wire connects. At the time i was checking the fuses because I was not getting lights or anything. Thanks again for all the help. I will try to order a fuse box from TC.

Well I went and bought a wire with a fuse in the middle to bypass the fuse box for the time being. the guy before me had done this on another fuse there at the box. So after snipping the brown wire and conecting it and snipping the red/white wire and connecting it and placing a 10amp fuse in the holder between i still got nothing. An interesting thing happened after connecting it all. I used my multimeter reader and placed it on DCv 20 and when touching the brown wire it read 28 but the red/white wire still read 0. So I used my new test light that I bought today and as soon as i touched the brown wire it lite up and went out like it blew the bulb, now it will not work on anything. Not sure whats going on or were to check next? Maybe its shorting out somewhere or it does not have a good ground but Im not sure where to check. Any help?

[3Phase]

Brian, it looks to me like the new fuse blew out when you turned on the ignition or the new fuse holder is bad or not connected properly. It is sort of hard to do but I have managed to do it.... more than once.

The voltage on the Brown wire comes from the ignition switch; no voltage on the Red/White wire means the ignition circuit probably has a short circuit that immediately ate up the new fuse.

Follow the Red/White wire from the fuse box up to the kill switch on the right-hand handlebar control and make sure it's not shorting out.

After running through the kill switch the Red/White wire runs back down to the ballast resistor, the starter solenoid and the TCI so you'll have work back through the circuit and check for shorts.

Check under the gas tank and the seat to make sure the wiring harness isn't pinched or has wires sticking out of it from an earlier wiring hatchet job.


If that's not it then remove the ignition fuse and unplug the ballast resistor, the starter solenoid and the TCI.

Turn on the ignition and check for voltage across the ignition fuse holder. If there is a voltage reading across the fuse holder when everything that fuse is supposed to be feeding is unplugged then the Red/White wire is shorted somewhere inside the wiring harness.



If the meter you're using is showing 28 volts DC on the 20 volt DC range then the meter is broken, the meter's battery is going bad, or you didn't set it to 20 volts DC.

That's 8 volts higher than the full scale reading for the 20 volt scale on the meter. Even if the meter is correct, unless you have a couple of extra batteries hidden somewhere on the bike there is no way you can have 28 volts DC in a 12 volt system when the engine is not running.

If the test light blew out when you used it then the bulb was the wrong voltage or it was just its time to go and you should say a few words over it before you get a new bulb.

[B.B.]

Got it running again. Thanks Scott I went back and checked the wiring on the red/white side and now it cranks and runs. And yes my meter was set wrong thanks.

Its now cutting out again and reving up and dropping rpms again. Another interesting thing is with it running if I spray B12 in carbs 1 and 2 it picks up on rpms and when I spray B12 in carbs 3 and 4 it drops down in rpms. What wouls be causing this?

[BA80]

If you didn't have a test light I won't even ask if you have a sync tool. Sounds like your carbs way out of sync.

Do you know where the sync adjustments are in between the carbs? If so, turn the middle one and try to bring 1 &2 and 3 &4 a little closer together.

[3Phase]

Got it running again.

Right on!

Its now cutting out again and reving up and dropping rpms again. Another interesting thing is with it running if I spray B12 in carbs 1 and 2 it picks up on rpms and when I spray B12 in carbs 3 and 4 it drops down in rpms. What wouls be causing this?

That's weird. Check for vacuum leaks and make sure the fuel taps are working and the fuel lines aren't pinched or kinked.

It could also be the center carburetor synchronizer screw on the throttle shaft between the #2 and #3 carburetors is out of adjustment and the left/right carburetor pairs are out of balance.

Whoops! Thanks, Greg, beat me to that one!

In general when you have trouble with pairs of cylinders:

If it's (#1 and #2) or (#3 and #4) it's usually a fuel problem.

If it's (#1 and #4) or (#2 and #3) it's usually an ignition problem.