Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Front Axle help

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Front Axle help

    Greetings! I need some help. I am trying to remove the front wheel so I can put on a new tire and am having trouble with the front axle. I've removed:
    1. the speedometer cable
    2. caliper
    3. the cotter pin, castle nut
    4. and pinch bolt.

    I then used a screw driver through the holes on the right/big-end of the axle to pull and tapped the threaded side with a mallet. The thing was not budging. I then tried some PB Blaster/penetrating catalyst and still nothing. Then I pounded the threaded side with a hammer, hit it hard, and it moved only slightly. I've now ruined the threads and am OK with buying a new axle but I desperately need to get this out! Any ideas?
    JEM
    -1981 XS1100H Standard

  • #2
    FYI...the calipers and speedo cable wasn't necessary. The caliper removal does make it easier though.

    Try spreading the fork tube where the pinch bolt pinches.

    Sounds like there may be a lot of rust in there where the axle goes through the spacer between the bearings. Some PB Blaster will help.

    Just knock it out of there, you should be able to fix the threads.

    Make sure to clean, check, and relube the bearings.
    Last edited by BA80; 08-21-2011, 03:56 PM.
    Greg

    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

    ― Albert Einstein

    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

    The list changes.

    Comment


    • #3
      If not just replace the bearings, they are only a couple bucks a piece.

      Just pound the sucker out.
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

      Comment


      • #4
        The standard axle only has a cap on the left side and on the right side the axle goes through a loop, so no it doesn't just drop down.
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

        μολὼν λαβέ

        1978 XS1100E
        K&N Filter
        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
        OEM Exhaust
        ATK Fork Brace
        LED Dash lights
        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

        Green Monster Coils
        SS Brake Lines
        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

        Theodore Roosevelt

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey Nate,

          I was trying to post photos from either the Yamaha Site, or BikeBandit, but neither will work now!! And...I then saw the diagram for the Standard forks, and realized that it only had one side of pinch bolts/caps!

          I could have sworn they were loose on both ends, but my experience with Standards and my apparent CRS is showing!

          T.C.
          T. C. Gresham
          81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
          79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
          History shows again and again,
          How nature points out the folly of men!

          Comment


          • #6
            Ya know now that you mention it TC that's right. I was thinking special forks too. If you have a pinch bolt Jeminyar those are Special forks.

            Standard forks have a cap on the opposite side of the specials pinch bolt and the axle goes in from the other (left) side. Either way it will need to come apart to get it working properly.
            Greg

            Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

            ― Albert Einstein

            80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

            The list changes.

            Comment


            • #7
              Removing the caliper is necessary. Wheel wont pull out otherwise.
              Trapped in time. Surrounded by evil. Low on gas.

              1980 XS1100G 1179 kit, Tkat brace, progressive springs & shocks, jardine spaghetti, Mikes coils, Geezer's rectifier

              Comment


              • #8
                Yeah. I've done it without because the lowers on the forks twist but had to remove them to go back together to get stuff lined up.

                My bad, calipers need to come off.
                Greg

                Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                ― Albert Einstein

                80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                The list changes.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well, to get technical about it the caliper did not need to come off to pull the axle, But the subsequent wheel removal is tricky at best without pulling the calipers, or at least one.

                  If you already tried putting a lever of some sort through the hole in the axle and truning it in the hole, and still no go, the only other option I know is to spray the blaster in and on it repeatedly over a few days time, and then use the BFH, if that don't do it, then get the BBFH (bigger big f'n Hammer).

                  When I first got Banshee, I had to use a 2 lb sledge to drive the axle out. I have since replaced all bearings and I use high temp grease on the axle before I insert them.
                  Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                  When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                  81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                  80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                  Previously owned
                  93 GSX600F
                  80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                  81 XS1100 Special
                  81 CB750 C
                  80 CB750 C
                  78 XS750

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey all, thanks for the input! The axle was indeed turning fine within the wheel but just couldn't get it to slide outward. still don't know what the problem was...there wasn't a bit of rust and had plenty of grease. Anyway, I took the BFH and hit the crap out of it and it gradually loosend up and came out. So, onward to find a replacement axle! (and of course finally get my new tires on).

                    Thanks for the input, really appreciated!

                    -JEM
                    JEM
                    -1981 XS1100H Standard

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X