If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Yes, broken posts can be fixed or replaced. I've just tried a quick search but haven't found anything yet but wil keep looking. IIRC, the repair method involved gluing it back in with something like JB Weld. The replacement method involved fabricating a short brass post with threads on one end that could be tapped right into the carb body.
I had a broken post when I last tore open my carbs. My solution was less permanent than JB Weld and a lot less work than a new post. I used Quik Steel. Kinda like an all purpose putty that hardens like "steel." I put the float in where it was supposed to be and created a new top with Quik Steel. Every five minutes or so, I'd go out and turn the pin a couple times to prevent the Quik Steel from bonding to it completely. In n hour, I had a new post top. I hope that helps you out. I got the Quik Steel at Checker Auto for like $5.
Tony K.
TonimusMaximus
Big Angry Scot - Clan Maxwell
New 1978 XS11E Owner
I've heard that JB Weld doesn't hold up as well soaking in gas, whereas the QuickSteel type stuff that I used hardened very well. I worked it like a putty to get it activated, then applied it all around the base and shaft of the post to cover the broken portion, just make sure you don't make it too thick so that the bowl will still fit, it's a tight fit, but there's still room to allow a coat of this stuff around it. Been holding for over 2 years now, no problems!! Good Luck.
T.C.
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
I am getting ready to fix one of mine and I have extra carbs so I thought I would cut the broken one off at the sholder and the other one at the same spot then drill a hole in the good one and the base then get a dubble end screw and screw them together.
I am worried about epoxi but if you guys think it will hold ok I am looking for the least work and time, I just might try it.
I wish I could hurry I want to hear this bike run but I think this will take me a wile to put them all back together, anyone in the DFW area that wants to help or maybe do it for a little cash e-mail me. :-)
I wouldn't use epoxy. It will break down slowly in gas. You'll want to use something that becomes a completely new substance when it cures. Like I said, I made a whole new post top with Quik Steel becasue it'll last a long time and won't get broken down. Do a lot of research before using any epoxy.
Tony K.
TonimusMaximus
Big Angry Scot - Clan Maxwell
New 1978 XS11E Owner
Originally posted by puttman I am getting ready to fix one of mine and I have extra carbs so I thought I would cut the broken one off at the sholder and the other one at the same spot then drill a hole in the good one and the base then get a dubble end screw and screw them together.
I am worried about epoxi but if you guys think it will hold ok I am looking for the least work and time, I just might try it.
I wish I could hurry I want to hear this bike run but I think this will take me a wile to put them all back together, anyone in the DFW area that wants to help or maybe do it for a little cash e-mail me. :-)
Charlie
Charlie,
Don't cut anything off!!!
I live over in Hurst. If you need some help with your carbs, I'd be more than happy to help you out. I have some experience with an XS, as I 've owned one since '91, and restored it.then. Are all the carbs disassembled, Ad separated from the rack? If you want to e mail me, my addy is wknj@hotmail.com. My phone # is 817 590 0312 I work at D/FW airport, and I'm home until 1 pm, and I'm off Fri & Sat.
I used JB weld to fix a broken post a couple of weeks ago, and I can verify that after two weeks, I pulled the carbs off to reset the float levels and the JB weld was plasticky and easy to peel off. SO, I do not recommend using it for float post repairs. I could see small pieces peeled off and were in the bowl, causing no good. I suppose if it wasnt in gasoline JB Weld does great, but not in the bowls. I read the quiksteel is the best unless others have something better???? Again, those that have used JB weld, might want to check the post repair done. Regards, Mike in san diego
I tried everything to fix mine. nothing will hold up to gas. It will break down and be like putty, nomatter what you use. I bought anther set of carbs. It was alot less headache
i used the quik steel also becouse the jb did not hold it flaked off.the quik steel has held for almost 1000 miles so far with no problems.i also carfully drilled into the post and where the post was and used a small nail with the head cut off to act as a back bone.
81 SH for 300 bucks,work in progress.
87 dodge d-50,35's,lockers fr&rr,fun.
87 dodge d-50,35's,open diffs,wifes.
89 dodge spirit,low 17's 1/4mile w/o turbo.
I mended one of my carb posts with JB Weld, and 9 years later it still seems to be working. My break was close to the pin so maybe the joint doesn’t get immersed in the gas. I don’t know the condition of the joint and as long as it works I’m not going back in.
There are a couple of different types, see below!!
Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500° F
Mechanics -- you can use J-B WELD with confidence. It is designed for safe, reliable, permanent repairs in engine compartments and heated environments up to 500° F. It's strong as steel and impervious to water, gasoline, chemicals, and acids. Working with J-B WELD is quick, easy, and convenient -- and saves you time, work, and money!
************************
Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 2100
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 300° F
Like metal, J-B KWIK can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 2 minutes after mixing, sets in just 4 minutes, and cures fully in 4 hours. It's water-proof, petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 300° F.
Note the above underlined word.....RESISTANT where as the full strength stuff is IMPERVIOUS!!!! Both SAY J-B Weld, but one is apparently a weaker formulation!!!
So...check your labels, you might find that you used the KWIK stuff and that would explain why it didn't hold up IN GAS!? JAT!
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
I used the JB weld heavy duty, it takes much longer to dry and it did not hold up in gas. My broken post was halfway down and sits in the gas. Two weeks and it looked like silly putty, flexible, peeling and I am glad I checked it. It just needed a float height check so I went back in. So, I bought some quiksteel, 5 bucks, and we will see how it does...........Mike in S.Diego
Comment