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I used bikerphils process last night and it worked perfect. In his post he says to get a hex bolt with a 19mm head which is actually a 12mm bolt. I then placed the plastic bolt wrapper over the head of the bolt and pressed into a deep well socket. 2 extensions and a ratchet completed the "tool". With my electric impact on the outer allen bolt it worked perfectly.
The bolt I bought from Menards came in a tiny plastic bag with its dimensions on it. I just took the bolt out the bag, folded the bag over the head and stuck it in the deep well socket. It was the easiest way I could think to get the bolt to stay inside the socket with out buying a specialty tool.
Mine is all back together except the cap because I need my neighbors help. Just cant get the assembly compressed enough to screw the cap back on by myself.
1980 XS1100G
-4:2 exhaust
-Pods
-Who knows what the future holds..
The bolt I bought from Menards came in a tiny plastic bag with its dimensions on it. I just took the bolt out the bag, folded the bag over the head and stuck it in the deep well socket. It was the easiest way I could think to get the bolt to stay inside the socket with out buying a specialty tool.
Mine is all back together except the cap because I need my neighbors help. Just cant get the assembly compressed enough to screw the cap back on by myself.
I guess when I tear into mine next week i'll know what you are talking about. I just can't seem to visualize it.
I guess when I tear into mine next week i'll know what you are talking about. I just can't seem to visualize it.
Here is the 12mm bolt with 2 nuts wrenched on tight so they dont back off. The assemble gets pressed into the socket after placing the wrapper over the bolt head.
1980 XS1100G
-4:2 exhaust
-Pods
-Who knows what the future holds..
Here is the 12mm bolt with 2 nuts wrenched on tight so they dont back off. The assemble gets pressed into the socket after placing the wrapper over the bolt head.
I get it the wrap is to help wedge the bolt head into the socket so you can pull it back out.
I used a length of 1/2" threaded rod with double nuts on each end. These nuts are 3/4" across the flats, and are only .005" different from the 19mm nuts. Cheaper (and easier) to find....
Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
I used a length of 1/2" threaded rod with double nuts on each end. These nuts are 3/4" across the flats, and are only .005" different from the 19mm nuts. Cheaper (and easier) to find....
The bolt I bought from Menards came in a tiny plastic bag with its dimensions on it. I just took the bolt out the bag, folded the bag over the head and stuck it in the deep well socket. It was the easiest way I could think to get the bolt to stay inside the socket with out buying a specialty tool.
Mine is all back together except the cap because I need my neighbors help. Just cant get the assembly compressed enough to screw the cap back on by myself.
Get a short piece of wood, I ripped a 1x4 down and cut a notch for the cap. Push down and turn. a search would probably yield more info and a pic for this. Its easy enough to do by yourself.
And I cut an allen wrench and used a 18 volt impact driver with socket but I had to compress the forks with ratchet straps to get it to break lose. Just another option.
While you're at it check the fork legs for any dings or scratches and if you find any, use an 800-1000 grit whetstone to lightly smooth them down.
In addition, I installed motocross gaiters to protect the forks and seals from road damage.
I found seals on evilBay for less than ten bucks, should I be concerned about the quality? Also, is a spring change necessary? Mine are leaking fluid around both seals but when I brought the bike home the springs seemed ok.
I found seals on evilBay for less than ten bucks, should I be concerned about the quality? Also, is a spring change necessary? Mine are leaking fluid around both seals but when I brought the bike home the springs seemed ok.
You need to measure the spring length against the minimum length in the field service manual to determine if they are ok. The seals can be fine and the springs be weak, and the seals can be bad and the springs can be fine, so you have to check them. Cheap seals may not last, at least a little of the situation is the condition of the inner fork tube. Is the fork tube clean and smooth, with no marring or rust pitting? If there is marring or rust pitting on any part of the fork where the seal travels, it's unlikely that ANY seal will work. If the fork tube is in good shape a cheap seal may last for a while, but if you can get OEM seals, they could last another 30 years (some have lasted that long). Another seal brand that has been known to last well is the leakproof brand, which is made a little different than traditional seals but are supposed to work pretty well.
Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
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