Just took my master apart on the mns I'm restoring and its full of crud must be old brake fluid what have you guys found best to clean out the old crud some type of solvent or just use brake fluid
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crud in master cyclinder
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If the master cylinder is completely assembled you can use hot soapy water to clean the parts as long as you dry things off well. Other than that, the only thing you should use on internal brake parts is clean brake fluid.Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
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Remember that crud is also in the brake lines and the calipers. The whole system will have to be cleaned.1979XS1100SF
K&N's and drilled airbox
Jardine 4in1
Dunlop Elite 3's
JBM slide diaphragms
142.5 main jets
45 pilot jets
T.C.'s fusebox & SOFA
750/850 FD mod.
XV 920 Needle Mod.
Mike's XS plastic floats set at 26mm
Venture Cam Chain Tensioner
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Originally posted by Toolmaker Tim View PostRemember that crud is also in the brake lines and the calipers. The whole system will have to be cleaned.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
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Agree with the last 2 about the full disassemblely.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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I'll be a bit of a contrarian on this and say you can use pretty much any solvent/cleaner as long as you are cleaning only the metal parts. You DO NOT want to expose any rubber brake parts to petroleum-based solvents as it will ruin them.
If you do use a solvent, you do need to thoroughly clean any solvent residue off; hot soapy water will do that.
Brake fluid makes a lousy cleaner sometimes... not to mention it's a bit expensive for that...Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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I'll agree there, which is why I stated hot soapy water, which can be used on pretty much anything but the brake lines, as long as you make sure you get things dry, and it won't damage the rubber either, but will generally clean better even than the brake cleaner.Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
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I've read that the "crud" is deteriorating brake line which is one of the reasons they are supposed to be replaced every 2yrs.
Whether that's true or not, my $75 braided lines were a cheap investment for me to feel safer.1980 XS1100G
-4:2 exhaust
-Pods
-Who knows what the future holds..
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Just a tip for getting the piston out of the caliper: If you've already got the Master Cylinder taken apart, you can use compressed air to push the piston out. Just be mindful that it can be stuck and then come out in a hurry, so don't get your fingers pinched (or sheared off), blow brake fluid into your eyes, or shoot the piston across your shop. It's a good idea to start with the air pressure dialed down low.'80 SG with motor from a '82 XJ
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