Trailer? for 1100

[BA80]

I was talking about the M/C, actuator Steve, not the whole freakin' trailer.

I would not only worry about the handling, but overtaxing the arleady insufficient clutch.

[crazy steve]

I would not only worry about the handling, but overtaxing the already insufficient clutch.

Yeah, there's that too. Have one that's a bit marginal, and the extra weight could easily push it over the edge....

[Eveready1100]

I have to admit that the discs & calipers on mine are massive overkill, mainly due to the fact that the tyre contact patch is much smaller that even the bike's tiny footprint. It's just that that's what was available at the time, and at the right price. BTW, That's a master cylinder and 4 spot calipers off a ZZR600. Got the complete set for US $20 off Fleabay. I would've put them on the front of the bike, only those Special fork sliders make that idea impossible.
In hindsight, a set of discs & calipers off any of those little pitbikes would be plenty strong enough for this application, and a lot lighter to boot.

I had a friend who bought a camper trailer that had electric over-ride brakes fitted. His problem was that having it hooked to a big V twin, if he rolled off the throttle mid corner, the engine braking would make the trailer brakes come on and start to drag the bike over further into the turn, not fun on something with very limited clearace. We modded his with a similar setup to mine, only instead of a master cylinder and line, we rigged up a rheostat which gave him a fully controllable set of trailer brakes. Mind you, his bike had a far superior alternator and battery, which could provide the power to run the brakes easily.

[ShakerNorm]

Hey all! I just found this thread, and am very curious. A few weeks ago my mc club went out 'camping' and I was relegated to having a friend haul my tent, sleeping bag, clothes, etc in their motorhome. I was almost drooling when I saw one of the guys with a trailer hauling all his own stuff, and realized that's what I need when I go on trips.

I don't need, or want, a very big trailer, especially after reading this thread. I do have a friend who specializes in welding aluminum, so making a small, light frame should be relatively easy. And finding a lightweight cargo box shouldn't be hard, either. I have very lightweight (< 10 lbs) roof cargo carrier for a small car that should work perfectly.

My big concern is trying to figure out how to rig up a hitch on the bike itself. Jerry has a couple links about his setup, but they don't work (my computer cant reach them, anyway). I saw Eveready1100's pics, but the one that shows his brake hose routing doesn't show how the rig is mounted to the bike.

It shouldn't be hard to rig up something to either the rear axle or lower frame area, and triangulated up to the rear shock mounts (or somewhere up there). Or is there an aftermarket kit somewhere around?

[Eveready1100]

but the one that shows his brake hose routing doesn't show how the rig is mounted to the bike.

Not sure which bit of the rig you're referring to. If it's the towbar, this pic show that the drawbars are bolted to the rear footpegs



And this one shows where the top mounting points are

It shouldn't be hard to rig up something to either the rear axle or lower frame area

Do NOT mount anything to the rear axle!! That could result in a serious accident waiting to happen.

[Eveready1100]

Norm, see if this pic helps.

[ShakerNorm]

EV - I think I found another thread that had most of those pics in it (and a few more) - but many thanks! I have an 83 XJ1100 (yeah - I know they stopped making them in 82 - EXCEPT for Canada!) so all the mounts will probably be different, but all the advice is still good!

I was considering putting the mounts on the rear swingarm (a pair of heim joints bolted to the swingarm, but NOT on the axle itself), but that would still introduce the movement of the rear suspension into the whole equation - as well as adding the forces from the trailer directly onto the rear suspension - so I don't think that's a very good idea at all........ Frame mounting sounds like a MUCH better idea.

I do think I'll still go with a ball hitch, but I think I'll add a swivel on the trailer's drawbar, just to make sure that it doesn't restrict any cornering ability. I've talked with my friend - and he's game to weld up the trailer and hitch for me.
I've sourced some 1 1/2" square aluminum tubing for $44 per 8ft section, as well as LED trailer lights and harness (don't want to put too much draw on the system). A sheet of .040 aluminum for a deck on it, and it should weigh in less than 30 lbs - minus the suspension.
The hard part will be finding an axle & wheels that aren't completely overkill. The smallest one I've found so far is 48" wide and rated for 2000 lbs. REALLY overkill for a trailer that I want to keep the deck 36" wide and keep the weight under 200 lbs - fully loaded!

[b.walker5]

Just a thought, but why dont you build your own axle? Every trailer i've built over the years (and there's been a few. Car, Truck, Horsefloat etc) has had the axle custom made, with springs to suit the load. Check the links below.

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/ite...00-001&eq=&Tp=

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/ite...c=2477&eq=&Tp=

[Eveready1100]

Norm. From what I can see of an XJ's backside in pics found online, they look to be virtually identical in layout as an SF so you could near enough carbon copy my mounts for your bike.

That's good advice about sourcing a lightweight axle too, Mr Walker. A much lighter assembly than mine would be a good thing. (mine originally carried around a fibreglass ski boat. Everything is heavy duty - solid axle, heavy springs, thick walled galvanised box frame)

[ShakerNorm]

Actually - these are what I'm thinking of...... http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5740_200335740

Lightweight, completely adjustable for width, good capacity, and well recommended as far as what I can see.

[fredintoon]

Actually - these are what I'm thinking of...... http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5740_200335740

Lightweight, completely adjustable for width, good capacity, and well recommended as far as what I can see.

Hi Norm,
although Princess Auto sometimes has 2,000lb rubber-sprung trailer suspensions I didn't know you could get the 500lb units over here.
They are AKA for at least 50 years in the UK as "Indispension Units", almost universal "back 'ome" for DIYing small trailers.
Just about ideal for a small lightweight trailer.
About the hitch; FWIW I wouldn't mount a stock trailer ball+receiver hitch on a swivel.
Those hitches will swivel ~30º before they lock up and if you lean further than that you shouldn't be pulling a trailer.
Swivel-mounting one means you dunno where it will be twisting to and that'd worry me.
You could make a Hookes joint instead: like a pickup truck drive shaft U-joint but you don't need the needle races and you can use a hitch-pin to detach it.

[fredintoon]

Or there's this:-

Hi again Norm,
I found this:-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8v78Gh2_HRs
Betcha they are just about unfindable but you could get some build hints from the video.

[ShakerNorm]

Thanks, Fred! That's a cool little trailer - and probably about the right size for a m/c..... Looks pretty lightweight and lots of capacity.

The swivel I was thinking of was more for safety than anything - basically a couple of tapered bearings on a shaft with (greased) plates separating them. In case of something extreme, it could turn and not force the bike to try to stay upright (or pull the trailer onto it's side) - which would probably do damage to the trailer, the hitch or the bike. In normal use, it probably wouldn't move at all, with the hitch ball doing all the normal work.

Fred - Keep your eyes open in the next couple weeks - a bunch of ex-Military bikers will be holding a Gathering out there in Toon Town - there should be CAV (Canadian Army Veterans Motorcycle Units) members everywhere. Unfortunately, my wallet has vetoed my riding out there...... Last one I was at was a blast!

[Eveready1100]

Norm, those rubber torsion stub axles would be perfect for our application. I've followed bikes towing too-softly sprung trailers and they're a scary sight on the bumpy bits. You're much better off having them on the stiff side.

Regarding your coupling - if your welding skills are up to it, go with your plan of making your own. At the time of building mine, I was a novice and had entrusted the final welding of vital bits to a tradesman at work so I could count on them to be quality welds I could trust. So these were my only real options at the time -


^ A purpose built stamped metal swivel hitch made by classic trailers - note the price!


^ The one I went with, a standard over-ride hitch suitable for tandem car trailers and adaptable for over-ride brakes. A massive case of overkill but was my only other option and at $39.90, fitted into my budget as well.


^ You can just see it on the drawbar in this freshening up pic. I removed the over-ride spring from the coupling and fitted a plain bush in its place to take any slack out of the thing.

Did I happen to mention an aternate option to the normal trailer body?


^ A couple of my mates have very successfully used old fridges for their trailer bodies. You just strip out the fridge part and glue carpet to the bottom and walls inside for the general storage area. The freezer becomes an instant esky and the compressor area is turned into a toolbox area with a hinged door for access. If the seals are still ok, you have a waterproof trailer. If not, get some new seals.
As the body is already quite rigid, the 1/2 chassis only has to provide mounting points for the suspension and coupling so can be made out of much lighter material as well.

Got you thinking now, I'll bet!

[fredintoon]

- - - A couple of my mates have very successfully used old fridges for their trailer bodies. - - -

Hi Ev,
what a brilliant thought! Like all great ideas it's so effin' obvious once you see it that you wonder why it never occurred to you.
Good for sidecar box bodies, too.
Beats my own thought of using a pickup truck tool box for a trailer or s/c box because dead fridges can be found at the local dump at no cost.