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'78 XS11 'bobber' project

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  • #16
    IF it has OEM coils, then the wires are not easily replaced. They are molded INTO the coil bodies. There's a tech tip about new wires in old coils, but is a bit of a PITA! More often, just nipping off 1/4" off the end of the wire once the plug cap is removed will get you back to good copper wire. Check the caps resistances...should be about 5K ohm, any much higher and the internal resistor and connections are corroded or bad. Can be disassembled, but new replacements can be got for ~$5.00 ea!

    Yamabond or Threebond is a non-hardening sealant/gasket replacement, so you can do away with almost every gasket whether it is a dry or oil chamber.
    And recent discussions reveal that head gaskets can be reused as well. The top valve cover is rather intricate, and it's easy to bump it when reinstalling it and knock off sealant...I think most folks will put it on the head and not the cover to reduce the chance of bumping/scraping it off accidentally.

    Comp test, plugs out, throttle wide open, said should be warm engine but hard to obtain when it won't run! Recommend a booster battery/jump from auto unit to help not wear/run down the little bike battery during test.

    UGH....straight pipes! The worst tuning condition. Are the straight pipes connected AFTER the 2-1 collector so that you only have 1 pipe from either side....or do you have 4 straight pipes??? If only 1 per side, then get a throw away H-D muffler to bolt on to the end...otherwise tuning will be close to nightmare level!

    A Dyno-Jet kit isn't necessary, but with Pods and even bolt on mufflers, you may eventually need to increase your jet sizes, but you haven't taken the carbs apart yet, you may already have larger sizes from a PO?

    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

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    • #17
      Hoses

      "I've been debating if I'll be attempting (after the carbs and tank are clean) to replace a lot of the fuel and air hoses (mainly since I'm doing all the air hoses on my truck as well soon)."

      Just be sure that any hose carrying fuel is rated for...well...fuel.
      1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
      1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
      1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
      1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
      1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

      Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Schming View Post
        Just be sure that any hose carrying fuel is rated for...well...fuel.
        Also the double walled automotive fuel line does not work well for motorcycles. The single walled (much thinner) fuel line is what you want for this application.
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

        μολὼν λαβέ

        1978 XS1100E
        K&N Filter
        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
        OEM Exhaust
        ATK Fork Brace
        LED Dash lights
        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

        Green Monster Coils
        SS Brake Lines
        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

        Theodore Roosevelt

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        • #19
          Originally posted by natemoen View Post
          Also the double walled automotive fuel line does not work well for motorcycles. The single walled (much thinner) fuel line is what you want for this application.
          +1 on that! Get your fuel line from a bike shop; there's been a lot of guys chasing carb problems due to using automotive line...
          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

          '78E original owner - resto project
          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
          '82 XJ rebuild project
          '80SG restified, red SOLD
          '79F parts...
          '81H more parts...

          Other current bikes:
          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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          • #20
            Good to know on the coils, wires, and caps T.C. I'll keep that in mind before I hop into that portion of things. Also good to know about the Yamabond. I'll have to see if I can get some to store in the garage. Thanks for the telling me how the compression test is supposed to be and suggesting to add help to the battery. Hopefully it'll be running well enough to warm up after I clean the tank and carbs out.

            And it's a 4-2 exhaust. Seems like they probably kept the original headers and simply took off the muffler to weld (literally) straight pipes on. Would look pretty sick if I extended the back end and put a wider tire on (they bow out from the bike a bit so they're wider apart at their end than start)... For now though, it sounds loud, will have to stay as is, and doesn't surprise me that it'll possibly be a nightmare to tune. I'm honestly hoping that they have different needles in there. I'd doubt it, but with K&N pods, they might've been willing/able to drop money for new needles too.

            Thanks Schming, Nate, and Steve. I was thinking how convenient that would be to just buy a single size tubing in bulk and just cut out sections I need. As most things mechanically (or so it seems), that would be the logical and easiest way therefore it's not how it's done. I'll make sure to get single walled motorcycle fuel line if/when I redo the hoses. Would it be better to use different tubing for the air, or would the fuel rated tubing work well enough I could just buy it in a larger length (if they even sell it that way and the fuel tubing isn't too much more than 'normal' tubing)?

            Thanks everyone. I'm starting to feel confident about working on this project again. Everything is making more sense too. I'll try and get out in the garage and take a few pics of the bike in the next day or two so you guys can see what I'm starting with (and hopefully when I'm done see that I actually made a difference).

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            • #21
              When we say tuning may be close to nightmare levels, it's generally be found to be nearly impossible to tune these bikes with run even half way well with straight pipes. Even with glass packs for mufflers it's still nearly impossible to get good performance at all throttle settings. Straight pipes will basically run at two settings well in most cases, idle and full throttle, at least that's been the reports from pretty much everyone who has tried.
              Cy

              1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
              Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
              Vetter Windjammer IV
              Vetter hard bags & Trunk
              OEM Luggage Rack
              Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
              Spade Fuse Box
              Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
              750 FD Mod
              TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
              XJ1100 Front Footpegs
              XJ1100 Shocks

              I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

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              • #22
                Does it resemble this?..http://youtu.be/v8CIDdKvUkg...................
                81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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                • #23
                  You know, I'll let you know when I get her running. Given the consensus on straight pipes, she just might.

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