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  • Help please! 1981 MS

    I am need of some information. I took my carbs apart, cleaned them and put them back together. my bike did not run but for a short period but it was not even close to right. I knew I had alot to learn so I tore the carbs back down to clean then again and then I was going to try to do a better job of float adjusting. My problem is when I tried to remove the last 42.5 pilot jet I stripped it out. I can get it out with an easy-out but now I have a problem. I can not find this jet in stock anywhere. I have looked on the net and no luck from mikes xs, boats, and nw vintage and others. does anyone know where i can get it in stock? Also my floats have nicks in them but do not leak, Should they be changed also? I know these carbs are hard to get right but I will get it right with time. I srtipped one of the jets the first time I took them apart and the only place I could find it in stock was NW vintage, they are out now! part number is 256-14142-42-OA. Any help would be appreciated.
    [B Bone stock 1981 SX1100LH 1,430 miles bringing back to life, slowly but surely.
    1973 RT3][/B]

  • #2
    knicks do not affect plastic floats if they don't leak. Use the search thread utility because stripped pilot jets have been problems to others who found solutions. Pilots can be had from Dennis Kirk on line, or any of the other suppliers which can also be found with the search utility. Don't break-off that easy-out! Reverse-direction drill bits have been known to work.
    Skids (Sid Hansen)

    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

    Comment


    • #3
      Bike Bandit .........part #50

      http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...8246#sch222288
      Greg

      Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

      ― Albert Einstein

      80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

      The list changes.

      Comment


      • #4
        thanks sir
        [B Bone stock 1981 SX1100LH 1,430 miles bringing back to life, slowly but surely.
        1973 RT3][/B]

        Comment


        • #5
          on the way, thanks, wil be asking more questions later i am sure. Tahnks again
          [B Bone stock 1981 SX1100LH 1,430 miles bringing back to life, slowly but surely.
          1973 RT3][/B]

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by SLB1963 View Post
            I am need of some information. I took my carbs apart, cleaned them and put them back together. my bike did not run but for a short period but it was not even close to right. I knew I had alot to learn so I tore the carbs back down to clean then again and then I was going to try to do a better job of float adjusting. My problem is when I tried to remove the last 42.5 pilot jet I stripped it out. I can get it out with an easy-out but now I have a problem. I can not find this jet in stock anywhere. I have looked on the net and no luck from mikes xs, boats, and nw vintage and others. does anyone know where i can get it in stock? Also my floats have nicks in them but do not leak, Should they be changed also? I know these carbs are hard to get right but I will get it right with time. I srtipped one of the jets the first time I took them apart and the only place I could find it in stock was NW vintage, they are out now! part number is 256-14142-42-OA. Any help would be appreciated.
            If you haven't seen this thread about carb cleaning look through it and follow it

            http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...b+cleaning+101

            The plastic floats are actually a solid foam type material so there is nothing on them to leak, so nicks dont really matter unless they are large gouges.

            As to the jets, they are still a commonly used jet from Mikuni so any bike shop/dealer can get them. My local stealership (literally they are WAY overpriced on everything) sells them for 2.30 a piece for the pilots and 2.95 for the mains, and they order them out of a parts n more catalog.
            Nathan
            KD9ARL

            μολὼν λαβέ

            1978 XS1100E
            K&N Filter
            #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
            OEM Exhaust
            ATK Fork Brace
            LED Dash lights
            Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

            Green Monster Coils
            SS Brake Lines
            Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

            In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

            Theodore Roosevelt

            Comment


            • #7
              I hope you're aware that once you get it running ...you'll have to synch. the carbs as well. Hope you get it sorted out. Carbs can be a "B" but theyre not really complicated...like say electrical gremlins
              1982 XJ1100 MadMax-im
              2001 Honda ST1100

              Comment


              • #8
                Don't forget the ebay seller "georgefix". He really knows his stuff and always has carb parts available. If you contact him directly, he can hook you up with whatever you need for your carbs. Probably a lot cheaper than the Bandit too.
                1980 XS850SG - Sold
                1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                -H. Ford

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for all the answers. More questions to come I am sure!
                  [B Bone stock 1981 SX1100LH 1,430 miles bringing back to life, slowly but surely.
                  1973 RT3][/B]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey Guys, I found out my float bowl passages are clogged. I can not seem to get them cleared. I have tried compressed air and bread tie method. With these clogged what would it make the bike do when trying to get started? These carbs set up awhile, This is my second time to have them apart. Any suggestions appriciated
                    [B Bone stock 1981 SX1100LH 1,430 miles bringing back to life, slowly but surely.
                    1973 RT3][/B]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Those passages are where the carbs draws fuel for the enrichener ('choke'), so if they're plugged it can be very hard to start, as your choke isn't working.

                      Cleaning? Sounds like you need to soak them in something. My preferred method is good old fashioned carb cleaner (the stuff in the one gallon can at the auto parts store); it's never failed to clean that sort of crud out yet. A lot of listers will warn you away from this, but it works great if used properly. You can't put anything into it that has rubber parts, as the solution will ruin the rubber, so if you decide to dip the carb bodies, you have to remove the throttle plates and shafts or you'll destroy the shaft seals.

                      Yamaha makes a more-expensive dipping solution that's safe for rubber that is well thought-of, you might look into that. The spray can stuff is 'ok' but evaporates too fast for a good soaking, and that's what is needed sometimes...
                      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                      '78E original owner - resto project
                      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                      '82 XJ rebuild project
                      '80SG restified, red SOLD
                      '79F parts...
                      '81H more parts...

                      Other current bikes:
                      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
                        Those passages are where the carbs draws fuel for the enrichener ('choke'), so if they're plugged it can be very hard to start, as your choke isn't working.

                        Cleaning? Sounds like you need to soak them in something. My preferred method is good old fashioned carb cleaner (the stuff in the one gallon can at the auto parts store); it's never failed to clean that sort of crud out yet. A lot of listers will warn you away from this, but it works great if used properly. You can't put anything into it that has rubber parts, as the solution will ruin the rubber, so if you decide to dip the carb bodies, you have to remove the throttle plates and shafts or you'll destroy the shaft seals.

                        Yamaha makes a more-expensive dipping solution that's safe for rubber that is well thought-of, you might look into that. The spray can stuff is 'ok' but evaporates too fast for a good soaking, and that's what is needed sometimes...
                        Thanks for the information.
                        [B Bone stock 1981 SX1100LH 1,430 miles bringing back to life, slowly but surely.
                        1973 RT3][/B]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Wanna talk "good 'ol fashion" use Pine-sol. Won't wreck the seals and you can soak them as long as you like. preferably over night. worked for me on a couple sets of carbs. If they are super cruddy with caked on hard crust, it might not work if you can't get to the areas with a wire brush. Worth a try for the price of a bottle of Pine-sol and some REALLY hot water. If that doesn't work then you can look into a deep cleaner or even ultrasonic cleaning which is usually pretty expensive, but is BY FAR the best cleaning method available. Ultrasonic that is Good luck
                          1980 XS1100SG "Black Mamba" 28K
                          1979 XS1100F 33k (Current Project)
                          1981 XS1100H "Blue Balls" (Crashed and under repair )

                          1978 XS1100E "Partsy"

                          Work Hard, Play Harder!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by SLB1963 View Post
                            Hey Guys, I found out my float bowl passages are clogged. I can not seem to get them cleared. I have tried compressed air and bread tie method. With these clogged what would it make the bike do when trying to get started? These carbs set up awhile, This is my second time to have them apart. Any suggestions appriciated
                            Excerpt from The Used Car Lot Mechanics Handbook;

                            Take a pair of pliers and break off a single wire from a wire brush. Get a straight one, not one on the edge that is all bent and curled.
                            Grip the wire on one end with the pliers.
                            Set the bowl upright, and fill the top hole with a strong solvent. (MEK, acetone, lacquer thinner, tricloroethane, etc. )
                            Stick the wire in the hole with a twisting motion. Run it all the way in. (NH)
                            When the solvent starts to seep out the bottom hole, remove the wire and put more solvent in the top hole.
                            Repeat as necessary.
                            Blow out with HIGH pressure air.


                            Thanks, and a tip of the Gregster hat to EXokieSPECIAL

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by CaptonZap View Post
                              Excerpt from The Used Car Lot Mechanics Handbook;

                              Take a pair of pliers and break off a single wire from a wire brush. Get a straight one, not one on the edge that is all bent and curled.
                              Grip the wire on one end with the pliers.
                              Set the bowl upright, and fill the top hole with a strong solvent. (MEK, acetone, lacquer thinner, tricloroethane, etc. )
                              Stick the wire in the hole with a twisting motion. Run it all the way in. (NH)
                              When the solvent starts to seep out the bottom hole, remove the wire and put more solvent in the top hole.
                              Repeat as necessary.
                              Blow out with HIGH pressure air.


                              Thanks, and a tip of the Gregster hat to EXokieSPECIAL
                              Thanks for the info. When I get home this weekend I am going to use my brothers HIGH pressure air to blow it clean. I have it 3 of them seeping through now but they are not clear all the way. I do have 1 that is clear. Air in a can aint cutting it!!!!
                              [B Bone stock 1981 SX1100LH 1,430 miles bringing back to life, slowly but surely.
                              1973 RT3][/B]

                              Comment

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