Tank Dipping Minneapolis

[Lbrown311]

So I am having a heck of a time finding someone to dip my tank in Minneapolis. One of the guys I talked to said it doesn't really do a very good job in the first place. What are peoples thoughts on this and has anyone around the Twin Cities area used a radiator shop to clean a tank? Also would electrolosis be the better way to clean it in the first place? Just curious on what people think is the best way to go about it. There is a place that will do it for $200 and seal it, but that seems a bit spendy, considering I would like to get it painted after that. Don't really wanna spend 1/3 of what I paid for the bike to get a decent tank. As I am writing this I am thinking electrolosis is gonna be my best/cheapest option.

What is the best paint to use if one were to decide to do it themselves. I have a good buddy that would do it for free, but I don't know the best products to use. Curious on your thoughts on Tank Refurbishing.

Also what is the best place to get a decent Color Tune at a fair price? Are any brands better than others, or are there some you just pay for the name?

Any and all ideas are welcome

[CatatonicBug]

Also what is the best place to get a decent Color Tune at a fair price? Are any brands better than others, or are there some you just pay for the name?

Sorry, I can't help much on the paint, other than to say you will need a 2-part paint.

As for the Colortune, there is only one Colortune - no different brands. You get it from carbtune.com, located in the UK. You'll need the 14mm version. They sell the carbtune sync tool as well, and IMHO, it's the best way to go for obtaining a sync tool.

[jeffro1954]

I had a radiator shop tell me not to do it, chemicals too harsh. electrolysis seems to be the way, although I've never tried it.

If it's just rust the guy at the radiator shop had an interesting suggestion. prop up a riding loan mower so the wheels turn free in the air. strap the tank (minus pet cocks and sending unit) to a tire and put nuts, bolts, small chains in it and let it spin for 15 minutes. Then shake out the debris, use compressed air to get the dust out.

[motoman]

They sell the carbtune sync tool as well, and IMHO, it's the best way to go for obtaining a sync tool.
__________________
+1 on the Carbtune............varying opinions on the color-tune. From input here and having never used one.......my ears are STILL the better option,IMO.

[Lbrown311]

Bought the SyncPro carb sync tool so I don't need that. Just want the Colortune so I can get em tuned right.

[bikerphil]

On ebay, overseas though, good price. Better hurry, not too many left...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Gunson-G4074-Colortune-14MM-Single-Plug-Kit-/130497288215?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e623e9817

[DiverRay]

As I am writing this I am thinking electrolosis is gonna be my best/cheapest option.

Yes, this is your best option. Read the thread on it, and figure about two days to have it done, if the tank is really rusty. If it's just a "light rust", probably 24 hours. Material cost, if you have a battery charger, about $15.
For paint, get a good quality DuPont two part paint. Fuel proof, and laid down correctly looks very nice, IMHO.

[Lbrown311]

Thanks for the link Phil, I found one on ebay for 29.99 US but I'm sure it will go for more than that as I was the first bidder. If it does I know where to go. Looks like by the number left I better get one fast

Thanks for the paint tips Ray and CB. Much appreciated. It's coming along nicely. Still have a backfire when it's warming up, and when I decel from high RPM's. I think the Colortune will help this as it seems my idle is very up and down, and I constantly have to adjust it. Seems like if the idle is too high when it gets all warmed up it pops a lot more. I will post some finished product pics as soon as I get her all cleaned up and the tank finished. It already looks better with real tires and a half a$$ cleaning. Would still look pretty sharp had it not rained this weekend Oh well. Can't win every time.

[latexeses]

There is some very good information here:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22621&highlight=rusty+tank

This is the set-up:

http://twinoak.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html

Take your time and have fun

[planedick]

Only at idle

The color tune is only good for adjusting the idle. Once the throttle plate moves even just a little bit the color tune is useless.

[Lbrown311]

It matters when your butterflies are closed which is when I backfire. Should help at idle and during decel with butterflies closed to have it tuned right.

[planedick]

How much

So, how much riding do you do at idle? If it backfires on decel it means it is lean at idle. Even with the carbtune you must set the flame to orange, not blue....

[Lbrown311]

I don't have the ColorTune yet, but you are confirming what I am saying. It affects your mix with butterflies closed. My bike doesn't warm up all that consistently right now, and pops a bit with butterflies "closed" therefore I would like to tune it appropriately to eliminate those issues. It certainly doesn't hurt to have it tuned correctly, so I don't see the arguement.

[CatatonicBug]

So, how much riding do you do at idle? If it backfires on decel it means it is lean at idle. Even with the carbtune you must set the flame to orange, not blue....

Not sure where you're headed there... The colortune setting, at idle, should be mainly bunsen burner blue, with just a shred of white popping into it. No orange should be visible.

[DAVINCI]

The point is you don't need the colortune to set the idle. If you have a good tach and the synch gauges (whatEVER type), that's all you need. Go for highest vacuum and smoothest idle and ride it.

THEN, if you have lean / rich issues you may need to re-jet, but that all depends on what if any changes have been made to the exhaust / intake systems.