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Tank Dipping Minneapolis

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  • Tank Dipping Minneapolis

    So I am having a heck of a time finding someone to dip my tank in Minneapolis. One of the guys I talked to said it doesn't really do a very good job in the first place. What are peoples thoughts on this and has anyone around the Twin Cities area used a radiator shop to clean a tank? Also would electrolosis be the better way to clean it in the first place? Just curious on what people think is the best way to go about it. There is a place that will do it for $200 and seal it, but that seems a bit spendy, considering I would like to get it painted after that. Don't really wanna spend 1/3 of what I paid for the bike to get a decent tank. As I am writing this I am thinking electrolosis is gonna be my best/cheapest option.

    What is the best paint to use if one were to decide to do it themselves. I have a good buddy that would do it for free, but I don't know the best products to use. Curious on your thoughts on Tank Refurbishing.

    Also what is the best place to get a decent Color Tune at a fair price? Are any brands better than others, or are there some you just pay for the name?

    Any and all ideas are welcome
    1980 XS1100SG "Black Mamba" 28K
    1979 XS1100F 33k (Current Project)
    1981 XS1100H "Blue Balls" (Crashed and under repair )

    1978 XS1100E "Partsy"

    Work Hard, Play Harder!

  • #2
    Originally posted by Lbrown311 View Post
    Also what is the best place to get a decent Color Tune at a fair price? Are any brands better than others, or are there some you just pay for the name?
    Sorry, I can't help much on the paint, other than to say you will need a 2-part paint.

    As for the Colortune, there is only one Colortune - no different brands. You get it from carbtune.com, located in the UK. You'll need the 14mm version. They sell the carbtune sync tool as well, and IMHO, it's the best way to go for obtaining a sync tool.
    1980 XS850SG - Sold
    1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
    Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
    Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

    Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
    -H. Ford

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    • #3
      I had a radiator shop tell me not to do it, chemicals too harsh. electrolysis seems to be the way, although I've never tried it.

      If it's just rust the guy at the radiator shop had an interesting suggestion. prop up a riding loan mower so the wheels turn free in the air. strap the tank (minus pet cocks and sending unit) to a tire and put nuts, bolts, small chains in it and let it spin for 15 minutes. Then shake out the debris, use compressed air to get the dust out.
      1978 XS1100
      1979 Honda Goldwing

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      • #4
        They sell the carbtune sync tool as well, and IMHO, it's the best way to go for obtaining a sync tool.
        __________________
        +1 on the Carbtune............varying opinions on the color-tune. From input here and having never used one.......my ears are STILL the better option,IMO.
        81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

        Comment


        • #5
          Bought the SyncPro carb sync tool so I don't need that. Just want the Colortune so I can get em tuned right.
          1980 XS1100SG "Black Mamba" 28K
          1979 XS1100F 33k (Current Project)
          1981 XS1100H "Blue Balls" (Crashed and under repair )

          1978 XS1100E "Partsy"

          Work Hard, Play Harder!

          Comment


          • #6
            On ebay, overseas though, good price. Better hurry, not too many left...

            http://cgi.ebay.com/Gunson-G4074-Col...item1e623e9817
            2H7 (79) owned since '89
            3H3 owned since '06

            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

            ☮

            Comment


            • #7
              As I am writing this I am thinking electrolosis is gonna be my best/cheapest option.
              Yes, this is your best option. Read the thread on it, and figure about two days to have it done, if the tank is really rusty. If it's just a "light rust", probably 24 hours. Material cost, if you have a battery charger, about $15.
              For paint, get a good quality DuPont two part paint. Fuel proof, and laid down correctly looks very nice, IMHO.
              Ray Matteis
              KE6NHG
              XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
              XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the link Phil, I found one on ebay for 29.99 US but I'm sure it will go for more than that as I was the first bidder. If it does I know where to go. Looks like by the number left I better get one fast

                Thanks for the paint tips Ray and CB. Much appreciated. It's coming along nicely. Still have a backfire when it's warming up, and when I decel from high RPM's. I think the Colortune will help this as it seems my idle is very up and down, and I constantly have to adjust it. Seems like if the idle is too high when it gets all warmed up it pops a lot more. I will post some finished product pics as soon as I get her all cleaned up and the tank finished. It already looks better with real tires and a half a$$ cleaning. Would still look pretty sharp had it not rained this weekend Oh well. Can't win every time.
                1980 XS1100SG "Black Mamba" 28K
                1979 XS1100F 33k (Current Project)
                1981 XS1100H "Blue Balls" (Crashed and under repair )

                1978 XS1100E "Partsy"

                Work Hard, Play Harder!

                Comment


                • #9
                  There is some very good information here:

                  http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ght=rusty+tank

                  This is the set-up:

                  http://twinoak.altelco.net/~jacil/cl...ElecSetup.html

                  Take your time and have fun
                  RIP Whiskers (Shop Boss) 25+yrs

                  "It doesn't hurt until you find out no one is looking"

                  Everything on hold...

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                  • #10
                    Only at idle

                    The color tune is only good for adjusting the idle. Once the throttle plate moves even just a little bit the color tune is useless.
                    You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...

                    '78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
                    Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
                    Drilled airbox
                    Tkat fork brace
                    Hardly mufflers
                    late model carbs
                    Newer style fuses
                    Oil pressure guage
                    Custom security system
                    Stainless braid brake lines

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It matters when your butterflies are closed which is when I backfire. Should help at idle and during decel with butterflies closed to have it tuned right.
                      1980 XS1100SG "Black Mamba" 28K
                      1979 XS1100F 33k (Current Project)
                      1981 XS1100H "Blue Balls" (Crashed and under repair )

                      1978 XS1100E "Partsy"

                      Work Hard, Play Harder!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        How much

                        So, how much riding do you do at idle? If it backfires on decel it means it is lean at idle. Even with the carbtune you must set the flame to orange, not blue....
                        You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...

                        '78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
                        Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
                        Drilled airbox
                        Tkat fork brace
                        Hardly mufflers
                        late model carbs
                        Newer style fuses
                        Oil pressure guage
                        Custom security system
                        Stainless braid brake lines

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I don't have the ColorTune yet, but you are confirming what I am saying. It affects your mix with butterflies closed. My bike doesn't warm up all that consistently right now, and pops a bit with butterflies "closed" therefore I would like to tune it appropriately to eliminate those issues. It certainly doesn't hurt to have it tuned correctly, so I don't see the arguement.
                          1980 XS1100SG "Black Mamba" 28K
                          1979 XS1100F 33k (Current Project)
                          1981 XS1100H "Blue Balls" (Crashed and under repair )

                          1978 XS1100E "Partsy"

                          Work Hard, Play Harder!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by planedick View Post
                            So, how much riding do you do at idle? If it backfires on decel it means it is lean at idle. Even with the carbtune you must set the flame to orange, not blue....
                            Not sure where you're headed there... The colortune setting, at idle, should be mainly bunsen burner blue, with just a shred of white popping into it. No orange should be visible.
                            1980 XS850SG - Sold
                            1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                            Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                            Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                            Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                            -H. Ford

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The point is you don't need the colortune to set the idle. If you have a good tach and the synch gauges (whatEVER type), that's all you need. Go for highest vacuum and smoothest idle and ride it.

                              THEN, if you have lean / rich issues you may need to re-jet, but that all depends on what if any changes have been made to the exhaust / intake systems.
                              Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

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