One issue with these bikes is that horribly-expensive factory turn signal flasher and the fact that they won't self-cancel unless that unit is fitted.
Well, I took one apart that didn't work, and actually managed to fix it. How these work is very unlike a 'normal' flasher as there's no bi-metal strip involved. They're really a very heavy-duty unit and shouldn't fail...
Function: What you have is a normally-closed relay, but you don't have a direct power connection to its' coil. Instead, in order to 'flash' the coil, the input power goes to a capacitor. The capacitor 'charges' and once it's reached it's threshold, it 'fires' into the coil and the contacts open. Once the capacitor discharges, the coil is de-energized and the contacts close. I suspect there may be a zener diode involved, but that's where the electronics expertise and test equipment come it. To duplicate this from all-new parts, you would need to know the coil load/voltage, capacitance in farads, and the details on the diode.
If you have one that doesn't work, don't throw it away. The capacitor is 'potted' into one end of the outer shell, and gets it's 'return' path through the shell. One of the terminals on the plug is the 'circuit return' and is a friction connection to the shell, so cleaning this can fix one; scuffing this clean and reassembling fixed mine. The only other thing I see failing is the diode, and if you knew what it is, would be an easy fix.
Anyway, food for thought....
Well, I took one apart that didn't work, and actually managed to fix it. How these work is very unlike a 'normal' flasher as there's no bi-metal strip involved. They're really a very heavy-duty unit and shouldn't fail...
Function: What you have is a normally-closed relay, but you don't have a direct power connection to its' coil. Instead, in order to 'flash' the coil, the input power goes to a capacitor. The capacitor 'charges' and once it's reached it's threshold, it 'fires' into the coil and the contacts open. Once the capacitor discharges, the coil is de-energized and the contacts close. I suspect there may be a zener diode involved, but that's where the electronics expertise and test equipment come it. To duplicate this from all-new parts, you would need to know the coil load/voltage, capacitance in farads, and the details on the diode.
If you have one that doesn't work, don't throw it away. The capacitor is 'potted' into one end of the outer shell, and gets it's 'return' path through the shell. One of the terminals on the plug is the 'circuit return' and is a friction connection to the shell, so cleaning this can fix one; scuffing this clean and reassembling fixed mine. The only other thing I see failing is the diode, and if you knew what it is, would be an easy fix.
Anyway, food for thought....
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