Am I ready to ride???

[Lbrown311]

So I have been reading and reading and reading even more. I am going to list what I have done and would like suggestions of anything else you guys think I should do to feel entirely satisfied with my bike.

Done:
New Dunlop D404 Tires
Rear Wheel Bearings
Greased the Shaft Drive Gears the right way, ie: on the splines themselves
Carb clean and replacement of nec. parts (set float height to 23mm) No leaks
New handle grips to reduce Vibrations
Complete brake overhaul (will decide on SS lines after riding)
Clutch adjustment (still need to determine if I did it right )
Thorough Cleaning
New Spark plugs
Battery Charge (With Battery Tendor)

Will be doing:
CCT adjustment
Seat Repair
Tank Cleaning
Compression Check
Changing oil again
Changing gear oil and replacing FD filler plug that I stripped trying to get out
Replacing Oil Filter bolt that I did the same thing on


Is there anything major that I am leaving out that I should be doing before really riding this thing. After 2 1/2 weeks of being down I wanna make sure everything is golden before I consider myself done I know there will be more things to do later and things I plan on doing over storage season, but will the things I did get me there, and get me there safely, of course after riding cautiously and making sure I did everything right.

If I am good,(I'll let you guys decide ) I will take it for a test ride after I break in the new tires and brakes and repost how it is riding after the upgrades and repairs.

Look forward to hearing what I shorely missed.

[Lbrown311]

Almost forgot one thing. I will probably have to replace the fork seals cause the right one is now (of course it ******* would ) all of a sudden leaking oil.

[BA80]

Change the middle drive gear oil.

And have you done the steering head bearings, either cleaned and relubed (if they are OK) or replaced them? They can have a great deal of effect on the way that it handles.

When you do those fork seals it would be a good time to take care of that.

Those are my suggestions.

I was reading your post in the parts wanted section.

I may have a seat for you. I'll have to check with my friend in Texas. That's where I left it when I put my new seat on. That is if you don't mind red and black leather. It didn't suit my taste but ......opinions vary. Maybe some of the other stuff too. I'll have to look.

If your interested PM me.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Brown,

I hope you've installed INLINE fuel filters or those freshly cleaned carbs will be DIRTY very quickly from the fine rust particles in the tank that you haven't cleaned yet!

Since you'll be pulling the forks, that will be a good time to pull apart the steering head, clean out the old caked grease and regrease and reset the tension, as well as inspect the bearing race on the lower for notches and undo wear. Hopefully the steering feels smooth already when you turn the bars from full left to full right and back with front wheel up off ground.

You didn't mention any cleaning of the electrical connections, at least the main ones for the battery, engine ground at battery and frame behind starter. Also large white plugs BEHIND fuse panel for Alternator need to be checked, cleaned or replaced if melted.

While running the bike, have you checked the charging system with a voltmeter at the battery for signs of proper charging at 2500 rpm?

I'm assuming that the bike/engine DOES run? Have you checked the spark plug coils both Primary 12v wires/resistances as well as the spark plug wire ends/secondary WITHOUT the plug caps on for proper resistances....inspected the wire ends after caps removed for signs of corrosion, trimmed wire back to get to good copper, also checked the plug caps for resistance values....5K is usually spec, much more is SUSPECT for cleaning or replacing.

Headlight and turn signals, brake lights /horns all work??

T.C.

[BA80]

TC types MUCH better and faster than I do

[Lbrown311]

Haven't done much of the electrical, don't have the tools to check it for one and haven't had it running in a couple weeks. I did forget about the inline fuel filters. Which ones should I be using. I heard not the copper internals. I am syncing and tuning the carbs tomorrow so I need to get those in first I would assume, or I will be cleaning again in no time. I have read a bunch lately about the next series of checks I should probably do, which included mostly electrical and engine work. I will surely be redoing the forks it sounds like. What is all necessary to rebuild them and where should I be getting parts. Yamaha is very spendy and not very close to home, but if those are the parts I "should be using" I guess I will have to make a trip tomorrow.

Haven't had any issues with the steering. Just noticed the right side fork leaking oil today. Hopefully I shouldn't need anything but seals. Dust seals look brand new.

[motoman]

Will be doing:
CCT adjustment
Replace it with an auto-adjuster, or all your good work COULD end up in vain.......

[SFerinTEXAS]

You better call on those seals. Doubt they will have in stock. I absolutely am floored you hooked up clean carbs with no filters. Yung- ens . What we gonna do with em? Anyone remember manshack_one ? As i recall he didn't die when his middle drive gear locked up from ignoring it. Almost tho.

[motoman]

Yup.....remember it well!.......remember the saying, can lead to water, but...............you know the rest.

[Lbrown311]

LOL, I already checked the oil and it was at the right level and seemed clean. I would just feel safer replacing it with fresh oil...which if you didn't notice was in the "Will be doing" portion of the post.

As for the filters, I am aware of the repercussions of NOT using them. The only ones I have seen at a local dealer were the copper ones, which I was told not to use, as they clog up easy. Anyone have a place to buy the proper filters?

I am a noob, give me a break

[motoman]

Copper......not sure what your talkin' about........as far as oil filter.....Napa 4933...easiest souce and always has one.....overnite if not anyways.

[Shacknasty]

I usually wait until my Moms says it's okay!!!

Change the fork oil and make certain that the rear shocks are set the same at both preload and damping adjusters. I routinely check ALL fasteners and use castle nuts/cotter pins or safety wire where needed.

I hope you did not get thick, spongy grips as they can reduce the clutch lever movement.

Clean all the electrical connections and coat lightly with di-electric grease.

Check for cracks in the rubber manifold boots and the condition of the rubber caps on the vacuum ports.

Lube all cables.

Fresh fuel. I replaced all the fuel lines too, fires suck when ya don't want one.

Do yer hide a favor and test and re-test the bike at low speeds in a clear area before you take it out on the highway. Finding out you've got a problem with yer brakes at 75 mph causes a little nervousness.

Have a real good time and get somebody to take a pic of you with yer big ole, this is the first time I'm ridin' my motorsickle, ess-eatin' grin on yer ugly mug. (I'm assuming yer mug IS ugly!)

[Shacknasty]

I have never needed an inline fuel filter. I think they often restrict the flow of fuel. A clean tank, kept full so it doesn't rust, and the tower filter on the petcock are all that I have ever needed. YMMV.

[BA80]

The only ones I have seen at a local dealer were the copper ones, which I was told not to use, as they clog up easy.

I've been using them now for 2 or 3 years without a problem. They only clog up because they're doing their job I would think.

[SFerinTEXAS]

You talking about these? http://www.bikebandit.com/visu-filte...dy-fuel-filter I like em fine. You gotta remember what they say about opinions, They're like a-holes, everybody has one.