Rear wheel mounting

[Retroben]

Like I said, give it some whacks until that gap is closed up. I had the same problem when I modified one of these arms, and after 'realigning' the brake side, my axle now slides in by hand.

The brake side isn't braced all that well, and can move around in use. It doesn't take too much for the axle hole to be off like that...

Thanks, Steve, that's encouraging. I was whacking it with a piece of 4"x4"...not much change so far, I'll try harder now .

[crazy steve]

Thanks, Steve, that's encouraging. I was whacking it with a piece of 4"x4"...not much change so far, I'll try harder now .

You just use the wood as a pad; you need a hammer with some heft to get that to move...

[motoman]

+1 CZ......for a start.

[bikerphil]

Something that may have been overlooked is the engagement of the outer torque bracket with the rubber/peg on the swingarm. If it isn't fully engaged, the axle won't line up sometimes.

[Retroben]

I'd prefer to tighten down the FD-swingarm bolts before installing the wheel... But then again, if this is going to come down to between torquing and banging, I'd rather torque down the bolts and leave the banging for other occasions

The piece of 4x4 I'm using is about 30" long, pressure treated, weighs like a BFH. I can swing it like a baseball bat, get some good whacks out of it, square on the axle opening, without any chance of metal/metal contact. One more cup of coffee and I'll try that again.

I did try fitting the rear wheel without the caliper assembly on there. Same tweak. But...about the rubber grommet that holds the front of the torque bar...MISSING! I don't remember removing it. Most of the other grommets/boots on this bike were totally rotted to pieces (rear MC actuator, driveshaft) or just missing. Er, uh, maybe that accounts for the rear braking problems? Probably!!

Does anybody know where I can get the grommet -- 3H3-25374-00-00?? Looked at BikeBandit, googled it, no luck.

[crazy steve]

Loosening the FD for axle alignment will only help with up-down alignment (but does help). Well, it can help for front-back, but as soon as you tighten the FD, it'll be back; you have to tweak the arm for a 'permanet' fix. I think you really need to use a hammer; the wood has too much 'bounce' in it to properly transfer the force. I used a 3lb ball-pein (with a 1/2" plywood 'pad'), and had to give it some pretty good blows, and that was with the swingarm off the bike and on the bench where it couldn't move. Try a chunk of something thinner and some good taps with a sledge... sneak up on it to see how much it moves.

That rubber grommet really isn't needed. The grommet is there for a 'anti-rattle' more than anything, but if you really feel the need for something, a short piece of heavy shrink tube works great. That grommet is a PITA to install unless the rubber is still nice and soft.

[Retroben]

Thanks, Steve, that's the kind of details I appreciate.
Looks like rear wheel is mounted. Loosened the FD bolts, rocked the wheel while my "assistant" (my buddy, the owner ) held the bike in place, forced the axle in no problem, a little rubber mallet action only at the end. Sorry I'm being such a wuss, but I've stripped my share of nuts and crossthreaded fittings. The minimum force concept was designed to save resources and prevent needless casualties. And finesse beats force, just ask that Harley you just smoked.

How about the rear pads? I got a set marked FA24 from the fleabay. Look just like the old ones except they seem to be just about one micron too big to go in. Should I lube something here? And the little screw that's supposed to hold the pads in is missing. Wasn't there. Is it crucial?

BTW, the owner showed up today and spent 5 hours cleaning grime and helping me wrench. We're already fully disassembled in the front end, ready to replace front wheel and steering head bearings and rebuild forks.

Hoping it will be easier from here, any suggestions?