General Questions: Accident Repair Saga

[Mendizale]

Alright, thanks to your helpful explanations and links, I think I've managed to straighten the front end. I won't know for sure until I take it for a ride, which can't happen till I fix the motor trouble.

As for the motor trouble...your diagnostic expertise would be very appreciated.

Before the damage to the bike, everything ran smoothly, although I was going to attempt to check the spark plug gaps and valve clearances, synchronize the carburetors (with the awesome tool that just came in the mail), and tinker with the fuel mixture (with the awesome tool that came with the other tool in the mail). In general, pulling back on the throttle led to smooth RPM increases, with some very minor fits in first gear.

After the damage to the bike:

I can warm it up with the choke, then release the choke completely and it warms up to about an 1100 RPM idle speed. I might be imagining things, but the idle seems ever so slightly rougher than before. In neutral, rolling the throttle back a little bit either: A, immediately cuts the engine, or B, increases the RPM 100-200 and then cuts the engine.

Here is what I've checked:

1. I removed the ignition cover to make sure the vacuum advance line was ok, and that no obvious damage was done to the ignition apparatus.
2. I checked the vacuum hose all the way to its other connection point.
3. The fuel lines seemed slightly crimped, so I thought revving may be leading to fuel starvation. Lifted the gas tank, straightened the hoses a bit, made sure everything was attached.
4. The petcocks seem undamaged.
5. The throttle cable has some free play (ie, doesn't look torqued or wrenched in any way), and seems to be connected to the appropriated place on the motor.

All of these seem fine to me, but it should be clear that I don't know much about motorcycle mechanics. Ask me about mountaineering, philosophy, biology, or even statistics, and we might have a conversation.

Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.

Mendizale

[DGXSER]

Have you checked the vent in the fuel cap. Try running with the cap open.

[Mendizale]

Have you checked the vent in the fuel cap. Try running with the cap open.

I'll try that. Do you think that the impact would actually have affected the vent so dramatically?

[crazy steve]

You might look at the pickup wires; these can be bad and it won't be visible. Try pulling on them; if one (or more) 'stretches' when you tug on it, it's broken....

[DGXSER]

I'll try that. Do you think that the impact would actually have affected the vent so dramatically?

I am just thinking through the causes, it could have dislodged some of the crap in the bottom of the tank and it may have gotten into the cap if the bike went horizontal.

[Mendizale]

Update:

I was really hopeful about the gas cap vent, since it would be such a simple fix. Unfortunately, leaving the cap open didn't solve the problem.

As for the pick-up wires, I'm assuming those are the wires that connect to the spark plugs. Those don't feel loose when I tug on them.

Any other ideas?

[motoman]

Pick-up coil wires to be found under the left side cover on motor......has YAMAHA logo recessed in black on face of cover.

[DGXSER]

Check the tech-tips under repair. There is a write up on the pick up coil wires and how to fix.

[Mendizale]

Geniuses

You people are geniuses. I went through the pick-up coil tech tip and, sure enough, I have a severed wire. Will go to the store soon to get a soldering gun (seems like a good thing to have anyway). I'll let you know how it turns out--I'm prepared for it to be a problem atop another problem, but I'm hopeful this will be all it takes.

Thanks again,

Mendizale

[Mendizale]

Hello again,

I thought I saw a post about this a few weeks ago, but I sure can't find it now. On the front and middle of the engine there's some kind of a bolt with a seal. I didn't notice this before my motorcycle was damaged, but it's leaking just a few drops of gasoline now. An ideas? The original post had a picture...

[3Phase]

Mendizale, that should be the cam chain tension adjuster but unless you did a lot more damage to that engine than you thought it should only be leaking oil, not gasoline!

[Mendizale]

Mendizale, that should be the cam chain tension adjuster but unless you did a lot more damage to that engine than you thought it should only be leaking oil, not gasoline!

Ha ha, you are right. It is oil. Nevertheless, it's dribbling now, and wasn't before. How do I address it?

[Barnfresh]

Headlight idea

Another point on your headlight repair - mount a fairing which will have the headlight and turn signals built in and does not use the ears - and it will make the Seattle weather easier to live with!

[Mendizale]

Ignition Coil Wire

Hello,

One of the ignition coil wires was broken in two places (on either side of the white rubber-covered holding brackets). I soldered them together, but the wire ended up being too tight, so they broke again at the weak point next to the new union. I'd like to solder in a new section of longer wire, but I'm having difficulty finding the correct replacement wire--it's very thin gauge, multi-strand, very flexible wire. Any idea where to find it (or what it's actually called)?

Thanks.

[crazy steve]

I've found a source for the OEM-style wire, but it's only available in minimum 10 meter lengths for about $40....

Cheaper alternative? Go to your favorite electronics store and buy a set of test leads. Do check for wire flexibility, as some of these are pretty stiff. I used a $8 set from RadioTrash, as I didn't want to drive another 40 miles for better. Install your splices where they won't have to flex, and make sure the timing plate can still move freely when your done.