Carbs

[cywelchjr]

Thanks for the reply TC.

I checked the pilot screw just in case but I am very gentle with them because of the horror stories.

I did not actually soak the carb bodies so hopefully no damage there but I will check tomorrow to be sure.

The caps on the carb boots are not nice soft rubber and I considered that as a problem but I pulled them off and plugged the hole with my finger but had no change in how it was running/idling.

I have not done a compression test or checked the timing yet as the bike was running great until I started messing with it over the winter (pods and green coils) I am going to give the carbs 1 more go through tommorrow and if it still is a problem I am going to have to start digging deeper as you suggest. Thanks again.

Did you sync the carbs? Cause if not, that sure sounds like an out of sync carb situation. If that carb is pretty much closed, then it would have lots of vacuum, but no be pulling any fuel through to get any fire which is what the plug needs to tune. Mine was the other way around, #1 was WAY high, and when I adjusted it the bike died and I had to turn up the idle before I could continue and couldn't believe how much better it ran. And that was after a bench sync. As hard as these things can be to get into the bike, they can shift a bit as they get into place and shift your nice bench sync, yet another reason that a vacuum sync is needed to KNOW things are right (yes, most of the time your good, but sometimes your not, as in my case).

[benxs1100]

Yeah I vacuum sync them everytime they are messed with. But that is another case of I didn't notice the problem because I run the bike at a higher idle when vacuum syncing to get a steadier readout.

[natemoen]

Yeah I vacuum sync them everytime they are messed with. But that is another case of I didn't notice the problem because I run the bike at a higher idle when vacuum syncing to get a steadier readout.

What sort of RPM are you using when you do the sync?

It really should be done at the same RPM as idle.

[benxs1100]

Usually about 2000-2500 rpm but I just did it today at 1200ish.

[cywelchjr]

2000 to 2500 is way too high for a sync to be accurate. You really need to have the idle as low as you can get it to go reliably when syncing (no higher than normal idle, and normal idle is just fine). The restrictors in the lines are there to adjust as much of the bounce out of the gauges as possible as the lower RPM. I can get mine to have a minimum amount of bounce, and then it's all about averaging the gauge readings, which is why it's so much easier with 4 gauge sets, cause you can see all 4 at the same time and see that they are all swinging in the same range together.

[RODS454]

??????

Was there a happy ending to this saga?