Motion pro valve tool modification

[trdriver71]

I have been trying to find what modification has to be done to the motion pro valve tool but all i can find is that is has to be modified to work can anyone help me and let me know what has to be modified to make it work. tia Laurier.

[DGXSER]

IIRC, the slots need to be opened up a bit so it lines up properly with the edge of the bucket.

[bikerphil]

On mine, I had to grind a bit off the inside...

[trdriver71]

mine is the same one but it doesn't seem long enough to press down on the bucket, but now i am not sure if that is the case or is it that it can't get close enough to the bucket by the camshaft.

[bikerphil]

mine is the same one but it doesn't seem long enough to press down on the bucket, but now i am not sure if that is the case or is it that it can't get close enough to the bucket by the camshaft.

It shouldn't be touching the cam at all. The cam needs to be rotated after the tool is installed in order to remove the shim. IIRC, I tried to slip a feeler guage between the tool and the cam and it wouldn't go, which led me to grinding the tool down. I had to take a pretty good amount off but it works perfectly now. I also had to ream the 2 bolt holes in the tool out slightly, just be careful, the key word is slightly.

[CatatonicBug]

I just did mine this last weekend, and the tool worked perfectly out of the box. No modification needed.

Use a small screwdriver to rotate the bucket, so the slot/notch is at the top. Turn the cam so it presses the shim and bucket down all the way. Install the tool, so it is centered with the cam (generally all the way to one side or the other). Turn the cam in whatever direction moves the lobe AWAY from the tool, so it is pointing directly AWAY from the shim. The tool holds the bucket down, just above flush with the head. You can verify clearance by sticking the largest feeler gauges in there between the shim and the cam. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to pry the shim out of the bucket, using the slot/notch you found in the first step. The shim should pop up with little effort. A thin pair of needle-nose pliers should be able to grip the shim and pull it out.

Be careful when re-insterting the shim, and make sure that it seats down in the bucket properly. I found that it tends to squeeze a bit of oil out around it's edges when it seats. Rotate the cam so the lobe presses the shim down again, and remove the tool.

Repeat 7 more times.

[DAVINCI]

AFAIK, there's only one modification of that tool that actually works --- THROW IT AWAY.

[natemoen]

AFAIK, there's only one modification of that tool that actually works --- THROW IT AWAY.

Just cause you cant get it to work doesnt mean others cant, you need to be smarter than the tool though Randy!

[somesuch]

The one I have did not need any modifications to work. Mine is pretty old, so maybe it's the manufacture date issue.

[DAVINCI]

Just cause you cant get it to work doesnt mean others cant, you need to be smarter than the tool though Randy!

But I am! I find it much easier to loosen the cams rather than rock...install..rock..uninstall...EIGHT TIMES

[natemoen]

But I am! I find it much easier to loosen the cams rather than rock...install..rock..uninstall...EIGHT TIMES

Depends, how many shims do you need to do

[XJ Rob]

Zip Tie

Has anyone ever used the "Zip Tie" method? I've heard it works pretty good.

[Rasputin]

I just did mine this last weekend, and the tool worked perfectly out of the box. No modification needed.

Use a small screwdriver to rotate the bucket, so the slot/notch is at the top. Turn the cam so it presses the shim and bucket down all the way. Install the tool, so it is centered with the cam (generally all the way to one side or the other). Turn the cam in whatever direction moves the lobe AWAY from the tool, so it is pointing directly AWAY from the shim. The tool holds the bucket down, just above flush with the head. You can verify clearance by sticking the largest feeler gauges in there between the shim and the cam. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to pry the shim out of the bucket, using the slot/notch you found in the first step. The shim should pop up with little effort. A thin pair of needle-nose pliers should be able to grip the shim and pull it out.

Be careful when re-insterting the shim, and make sure that it seats down in the bucket properly. I found that it tends to squeeze a bit of oil out around it's edges when it seats. Rotate the cam so the lobe presses the shim down again, and remove the tool.

Repeat 7 more times.

Just like C-bug says. No problem at all with mine.

[trdriver71]

what am i doing wrong mine does even touch the bucket and there is space between the cam and the tool.

[LoHo]

There was a thread years ago about this. There are usually two mods needed: the grinding down of the top of the curved surface, and grinding the underside of the flange that gets bolted down. Without these mods, most tools will either not reach the cam bucket or not reach around the cam lobe.