Further Adventures In The Carburetor Zone

[Kit]

The parts I have been waiting for finally arrived yesterday, so today I began cleaning the bejeezus out of my carbs again. I discovered that #2 is missing a tiny little pin. No idea what it is called, so here are pics. First shows #1 and #2, with the pin in #1 circled and the lack of pin in #2 circled. The next two are close ups of the pin and no-pin.







So the questions are, what is this pin called, and where can I get one?

[CatatonicBug]

I didn't know those pins would come out! No idea if they are even considered a "part" that can be replaced. They allign the emulsion tubes. Maybe you can find a small roll pin that will fit?

[natemoen]

That is the locator pin for the emulsion tubes. It looks like there is still a nub of some sort in that tower though isn't there? Or is there just a hole through it?

[Kit]

No, it's just the hole. A little blurry cuz I got the camera a bit too close. Got nothing in the garage that's the same size. I may have to pull one of the others and take it down to the hardware store and see what they have. I'm not hopeful, though...they don't have much.

[natemoen]

Don't remove another just take the carbs to the hardware store.

[Kit]

Crisis averted.

Was able to measure one of the pins without removing it. Of course, no one in this little hick town has little brass pins that size, so I had to improvise. One place had a slotted spring pin that was the right diameter. Just had to cut to the right length.

So... carbs are clean and reassembled. In the morning, they go back on the bike for tuning and syncing. Tune in tomorrow: same bat-time, same bat-channel!

[skids]

As long as the jet screws into the emulsion jet and the riser portion of the jet is "downwind" after the jet is tightened, I don't think there would be any problem...as long as the hole does not leak air into works!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Skids,

In this case, being the early model carbs, the pin also provides the proper alignment process for the main jet to pilot jet tunnel port from the emulsion main jet tube thru the carb case tunnel into the pilot jet tower, and if out of position could restrict the fuel flow to the pilot jet.

Glad he was able to find an alternative fix.
T.C.

[Kit]

Got everything back together and fired it up. Let it warm up, then synced it. Started to colortune, and that idle mixture screw on #1 popped out of the threads. I don't remember if I mentioned this before, but this is the one that the threads were jacked up on and I had to destroy a screw to get it out. I found and ordered a tap, but when the screws arrived, I dropped one in to see what was what, and it threaded in just fine. So I never used the tap. So now, the screw won't grab at all. I can push it all the way down to the seat without the threads catching.

So now it seems I have 2 options: find a replacement carb body, or bore out the hole a bit and machine a sleeve to drop into it that the idle mixture screw can then screw into.

Any thoughts?

[skids]

The tap cleaned out the threads but the theads didn't have enough meat left to hold the screw? You are better off buying a bank of carbs that are compatible with the other three and use the carb that you need. Sometimes a bank of carbs is better than getting a single carb because a lot of sellers don't like to beak-up the assembly. I don't think it would be impossible to tap it a little bigger to fit a bolt and try to fabricate a pilot screw. I know that would be jimmy-rigged, but it would not be impossible to do. If you were to contemplate that, just make sure that no praticles get into the fuel port that is in the side of the pilot screw cavity.

[Kit]

Found a set of carbs for a decent price. Seller said he hadn't opened them up to inspect the insides. Figured I would just clean 'em up and use the entire bank, and likely just swap out the innards from mine since I know all that stuff is good.

Carbs came yesterday, just cracked them open today. They are extremely varnished on the inside, and #2 has a broken float post that looks like someone tried to JB Weld back on ("tried" being the operative word here). So I think I'm going to just transplant the #1 body, instead of using the whole bank like I originally intended.

Are there any special tricks/tips to separating the bodies? Looks pretty straightforward, but looks can sometimes be deceiving.

For future reference, it looks like I will have good bodies on #3 and #4. If anyone needs one, let me know. Don't know about all the mains, jets, etc because I haven't pulled them all yet. If they clean up satisfactorily, they will be available as well.

[natemoen]

Don't get rid of the bad two so fast. Now that you have.a good set work with the broken 2 and then you could have a spare bank of carbs.

[Kit]

I considered that, but I don't know if that post can even be repaired. I think I'm going to go ahead and attempt the thread repair on the other one that we were talking about elsewhere, just to see if it works. But I think it would take a miracle to get the entire bank operating correctly with two two jacked up carb bodies. Miracles are not my specialty, as SWMBO can attest to.

So the two that are bad will likely become experiments. The other 2 will be available for anyone in need. Just need to clean 'em up a bit.

[natemoen]

There are plenty of documented repair methods for the float post, it is a rather common failure point.

[Kit]

Hmm. I saw a post a while back, in which someone said once those are broken, they're done, so I didn't even look. That's what I get for not looking into it further, I guess. I'll do a search and see what comes up.