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  • #16
    Originally posted by psycoreefer View Post
    before you install those barnetts check them on a known flat surface for warpage. I know my barnetts had a tiny bit and made the clutch stutter. Others have had similar issues, maybe its a shipping thing I don't know.
    Thanks for the advice, I never trust new parts anyway...

    I've seen too many less then excellent "NEW" parts.

    Larry
    Inventor of the YICS Eliminator. Want one? Get it here.
    http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...399#post183399

    If you're not riding, you're not living!
    82 XJ1100
    80 XS1100G (Project bike)
    64 Yamaha YA-6
    77 Suzuki TS-185

    79 XS1100SF Built this one for a friend.
    See it here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBYT4C9_6Ac

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    • #17
      Originally posted by psycoreefer View Post
      before you install those barnetts check them on a known flat surface for warpage. I know my barnetts had a tiny bit and made the clutch stutter. Others have had similar issues, maybe its a shipping thing I don't know.
      Not sure if I understood correctly. To fix the clutch shudder, manufacturers usually put in a "shudder spring" which is a slightly convex washer that sits atop of the flat seat and cushions the plate engagement......sort of like a warped plates would do. While such things help eliminate shudder, they may promote more clutch drag and result in difficult shifting/finding neutral issues....

      The condition of the clutch hub and basket fingers is very important for the clutch to be able to fully disengage as well.

      The only issue that I ever had with Barnette plates is difficulty disengaging the clutch the first thing in the morning, but that was with their old cork plates.

      On many bikes it is beneficial to drill extra oil holes in the clutch hub in addition to the ones already present to reduce the shuder. IMHO


      --Nick
      Last edited by somesuch; 05-05-2011, 01:33 AM.

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      • #18
        clutch plates

        Where is a good source of the friction plates (fiber)? I think maybe mine are bad, I replaced the springs and lubed the cable but still have slippage at higher rpm when I get into it. My steels are good, other than heat. When I took it apart my friction plates have a glazed look to them. and dark.
        '79 XS 1100F

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        • #19
          YAMAHA still has friction plates. Parts-N-More and Mike's XS have them too. (XS650's use the same plates.)
          Marty (in Mississippi)
          XS1100SG
          XS650SK
          XS650SH
          XS650G
          XS6502F
          XS650E

          Comment


          • #20
            or if you can find an alto dealer you can install an extra friction and an extra steel for more friction area....

            Or if your cheap you can take a piece of fine sand paper and sand just enough to take the "glazed" look off the ones you've got and see if that fixes em...
            1979 xs1100 Special -
            Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

            Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

            Originally posted by fredintoon
            Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
            My Bike:
            [link is broken]

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by psycoreefer View Post
              or if you can find an alto dealer you can install an extra friction and an extra steel for more friction area....

              Or if your cheap you can take a piece of fine sand paper and sand just enough to take the "glazed" look off the ones you've got and see if that fixes em...

              For normal HP, I would stick with regular plates, the thinner plates hammer the basket/hub more and you end up needing to replace those.


              --Nick

              Comment


              • #22
                I doubt that the friction plates are harder than the basket or hub. The steels are the same thickness as stock (and actually I'd recommend stock steels over Barnett), and even if they were by the time you wear them out in another 30 years you'll probably be due for a new basket anyways.
                1979 xs1100 Special -
                Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

                Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

                Originally posted by fredintoon
                Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
                My Bike:
                [link is broken]

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by somesuch View Post
                  For normal HP, I would stick with regular plates, the thinner plates hammer the basket/hub more and you end up needing to replace those.


                  --Nick
                  That comment has no basis... to my knowledge no one on this forum has ever needed to replace the clutch basket due to the friction "ear" wearing into the basket. After 45,000 miles on my bike my basket showes no wear at all on the basket where the ears contact the basket. AND if you think about it, the applied load to to the basket from the friction ears is spread over a larger surface area by using thinner frictions (and adding an additional 1 over stock) therefore the total load under a single friction ear is reduced.

                  Either you dont know exactly what the ALTO friction mod entails or dont have an engineering mindset...
                  Last edited by WMarshy; 05-11-2011, 08:35 AM.
                  '79 XS11 F
                  Stock except K&N

                  '79 XS11 SF
                  Stock, no title.

                  '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                  GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                  "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by WMarshy View Post
                    That comment has no basis... to my knowledge no one on this forum has ever needed to replace the clutch basket due to the friction "ear" wearing into the basket. After 45,000 miles on my bike my basket showes no wear at all on the basket where the ears contact the basket. AND if you think about it, the applied load to to the basket from the friction ears is spread over a larger surface area by using thinner frictions (and adding an additional 1 over stock) therefore the total load under a single friction ear is reduced.
                    Well, now you know one. I was having sticky clutch issues last winter and had to dress up the basket and the center hub. The frictions and steels had worn marks into both and it was causing the stickiness. Dressing them up cured it, but I would rather have had another basket/hub assembly to swap out. maybe next winter. BTW, assuming it's the original, 130K miles on that basket assembly.
                    Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by DAVINCI View Post
                      Well, now you know one. I was having sticky clutch issues last winter and had to dress up the basket and the center hub. The frictions and steels had worn marks into both and it was causing the stickiness. Dressing them up cured it, but I would rather have had another basket/hub assembly to swap out. maybe next winter. BTW, assuming it's the original, 130K miles on that basket assembly.
                      Im not saying that isnt possible, just that I was unaware of anyone having the issue. Your theory about the thinner plates hammering the basket harder is what I was calling BS on.
                      '79 XS11 F
                      Stock except K&N

                      '79 XS11 SF
                      Stock, no title.

                      '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                      GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                      "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        IMHO "hammering" the basket and hub has more to do with riding style than it does with components. Go look at the dirt bike crowd, baskets getting burr's is relatively common place and good practice is to smooth your basket out (or replace) when you do clutch work. Then look at how they ride, lots of on/off sudden throttle changes. Lots of wheelies and clutch drops etc.

                        Now take a look at the street bike crowd, for the most part clutch engagement is "gradual" and clutch drops, wheelies, and sudden throttle changes are not a regular part of the ride. All this leads to less wear and "hammering".

                        I will say that my bike had visible (but not noticeable by touch) wear on the basket, it didn't cause me any problems before or after, but I know for a fact the guy I got my bike from did burn outs, clutch drop wheelies, and rode for 3 years without 1st or 2nd gear as a result. So my clutch got abused. I'd suggest that your bike (davinci) maybe saw similar treatment under a PO, which caused your problems.

                        Overall I'd say that if you run good oil, and ride reasonably you'll never have an issue, if you beat the bike and ride hard, your going to wear things and break things - just like any other type of vehicle.

                        I just wanted to point out that ALTO is an option (their material is advertised as synthetic oil compatible which I don't think others are), they give more clutch surface area, and they're not much more than stock plates.
                        I went with ALTO plates because it seemed like an upgrade for about the same price as replacing with stock parts, and I intend to go to the 1197 kit at some time in the future and I want to ensure I don't have any slip with the added power.
                        1979 xs1100 Special -
                        Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

                        Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

                        Originally posted by fredintoon
                        Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
                        My Bike:
                        [link is broken]

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by psycoreefer View Post
                          I doubt that the friction plates are harder than the basket or hub. The steels are the same thickness as stock (and actually I'd recommend stock steels over Barnett), and even if they were by the time you wear them out in another 30 years you'll probably be due for a new basket anyways.
                          My comment was made from direct experience. Baskets/hubs wear, and wear faster with thinner plates/plate ears. I have dressed/replaced those components as they wore. I have this issue now on my 82 Katana with fairly low miles. Take is FWIW.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by WMarshy View Post
                            That comment has no basis... to my knowledge no one on this forum has ever needed to replace the clutch basket due to the friction "ear" wearing into the basket. After 45,000 miles on my bike my basket showes no wear at all on the basket where the ears contact the basket. AND if you think about it, the applied load to to the basket from the friction ears is spread over a larger surface area by using thinner frictions (and adding an additional 1 over stock) therefore the total load under a single friction ear is reduced.

                            Either you dont know exactly what the ALTO friction mod entails or dont have an engineering mindset...
                            The "basis" was the experience with other thinner plate kits. If you look at the ears of the stock plates and the ears of the ones you seem to like, you will see why what you say is not exactly correct.

                            Not here to argue, just offered the info gained from personal experience.

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