3rd project bike

[Stepka]

The low vacuum numbers make me think of similar problems I had recently. make sure to check you cam timing adjustment when you do the valve shims. Do not forget and make yourself a whack of work like I did

From what I can tell my timing is non adjustable because there is no slots

[Rasputin]

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31788

Shows you some of my adventures and the cam timing marks I am referring to. And yes the timing can be adjusted on these as well.

[DGXSER]

I forget if you stated this, might want to put your model and year in your signature line.

The 81 model year they took the timing adjustment out by using non-removable fasteners. The solution is to drill the heads off, pull the timing assembly, remove the remaining screw with pliers ect. Then reinstall with a removable screw so you can adjust.

I think the thought was that in removing the mechanical advanc and only needing the vac adv that once it was set at the factory it did not need to be changed. Either that, or the timing was part of meeting the EPA regs of the day, like the lean mixture setting and the caps over the mix screws.

[Stepka]

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31788
Shows you some of my adventures and the cam timing marks I am referring to. And yes the timing can be adjusted on these as well.

Thanks a TON!!! I will inspect that before adjusting my valves.

[Rickrod3]

The general concensus is that it can cause the clutch to slip. I say can, only because there have been reports of owners using the full synthetic with no il-effects. But the larger number have reported problems. Perhaps it only that the synthetic is exposing iffy clutch disc or springs, but all worked better after switching back.

For my money, I'm sticking with the dino-oil, and no I am not going to open up the can of what weight or type or blah blah blah...

I'm currently running Mobil 1 15-50. I've read it's one of the synthetics others have used. I've put over 300 miles on it mostly 2 up and my bike seems to like it. The first thing I noticed the trans shifts a lot smoother. I'm guessing that the better oil has made my rings seat better since it has not used any oil.
With GTX. I would have to top off a little at about 200 miles and with Rotella 15-40 at about 175miles.

Rick

[Stepka]

Well, the timing marks all line up so my timing chain is right on. So all "should" be well regarding that. I checked valve clearance on the intake with a .25mm gauge and all is good. I will recheck when I get a smaller gauge set and I will check the exhaust as well.

I did a compression test just for kicks. I got all kinds of diffrent numbers from the same cylinder. I will need to get my hands on a better gauge than my elcheapo. Mental note: Harbor Freight is only good for "some" tools not all!!

My replacement carb is a bastard on the other hand. The mixture screw is froze and the jet on the air filter is as well. I ended up stripping off the heads on the screws.......PUCK!!!!! So the search continues for the #2 carb. Is there another option for carbs that I could look into? I figure that 78-79 carbs would work just fine. I really only want a #2 body because I have rebuilt all of these already.

Thanks everyone for all of your help and ideas!!!

[Rasputin]

When you did the compression test did you take out all the other plugs as well? Did you hold the throttle wide open, or are the carbs off. If they are on and not open you will get lower numbers as a rule. If your cranking speed is low you may get differing numbers too.

[Stepka]

When you did the compression test did you take out all the other plugs as well? Did you hold the throttle wide open, or are the carbs off. If they are on and not open you will get lower numbers as a rule. If your cranking speed is low you may get differing numbers too.

All of the plugs were out and the carbs are sill on the bench. My battery was pretty weak as well so that may have affected it. I am still gonna get a Snap-on from a buddy, just to check.

[Stepka]

Time to lick my wounds with some home-brewed beer for now.... till I get a carb or get them pieces out

[natemoen]

Plenty of people strip the heads off jets and still get the jet out, it just takes some determination and work. If it really comes down to it, take it to a machine shop and have them do it and you'll have it back in an hour or so.

[natemoen]

And no you really don't want to mix years in the carbs. Do your carbs have a rubber plug covering the pilot jet or a screw or nothing? Is there a passage between the main jet tower and the pilot jet tower? Are there 2 or 4 T's in-between the carbs?

[cywelchjr]

Thanks a TON!!! I will inspect that before adjusting my valves.

But check the timing before you drill those out. If the timing is correct, no reason to drill them out and mess anything up. However, you can indeed drill them out and make it adjustable. I used two valve cover bolts in the place of the ones I drilled out. They are a perfect fit into the same fittings, maybe it restricts the adjustment a bit, but I don't need to go beyond where it restricts me to anyways so who cares? I just pulled two valve cover bolts from my old engine when I did the swap after I drilled them out.

[Stepka]

Well took the Carb to a machine shop and the housing cracked. I'm gonna go back to the salvage yard and see if they will exchange it, unless someone had a 80-81 #2 Carb.

[Stepka]

I got same smaller feeler gauges and I only have .05mm clearance an intake and .07mm on exhaust.... is it time for same head work? My bike has 46K miles it affects any thing.

[Stepka]

And no you really don't want to mix years in the carbs. Do your carbs have a rubber plug covering the pilot jet or a screw or nothing? Is there a passage between the main jet tower and the pilot jet tower? Are there 2 or 4 T's in-between the carbs?

My carbs do not have have anything covering the pilot jet. I dent know about the passage, sorry. There is only 2 t's between the carbs for fuel and that's it. So if I bought a full set of older carbs that would affect the bike?