3rd project bike

[Stepka]

Hello everyone, I am on my 3rd project bike. After 2 failures I hope this one works out. I picked up a fully dressed 1980 xs11 for $500.00. The bike has issues idling, rear frozen brake and it idled at 3K rpms when warm.I discovered that their was only about 5 lbs vacuum via a sync gauge,the air box was full of gas and all of the plugs were black. I sprayed carb cleaner on the boots and vacuum lines to check for leaks, and no change in idle. When the bike was running #2 was not registering the same exhaust temp with new plugs. I removed the carbs for a good cleaning and they kept I leaking well more like pourng gas at of the over flow holes. After I had them off and apart for the 4th time (adjusted the float's 1.012" and checked the needles.... again) I broke off a float pin tab S*%T!!! I found a replacement body with a frozen (rusted) butterfly so its in a oil bath at this time. I have a new value cover gasket and cam end seals, on the bench now. My next project is to check valve clearance when I replace the gaskets. If anyone has any pointers or ideas please tell me.

[Stepka]

Incase you were wondering my first project was a xs650. which I sold for my kids to have Christmas. My second project was a hardtail GL500 rat bike, which was to much of a basket case. I gave it back to my friend who gave it to me after rewiring it.

[fredintoon]

- - - If anyone has any pointers or ideas please tell me.

Hi Nick,
you didn't mention doing an oil & filter change but when the airbox fills with gas it can also get into the oil so it's best to do that before running the engine again.
Some use sidecutters under the head to get the float pins out and others use a gadget that was invented on this list but I fire them out with an automatic centrepunch up the unheaded end and I ain't busted a float pin post off yet.

[natemoen]

'80 (if they are still correct year) carbs need the floats set to 23mm, your floats are to low right now at about 25mm.

Also, the replacement carb that you got, what is it from?

[Stepka]

Hi Nick,
you didn't mention doing an oil & filter

I will do that once my carbs don't leak, thanks!!

[DGXSER]

Nick,

I certainly see focusing on the carbs, but I would definitely at least test the oil for gas in it before you even try to fire that engine up. Put a stick or something like it down through the oil fill and get some oil on it, then take it outside and try to light it on fire using a match or the like. If it has gasoline in it, it will burn. Honestly, if you can even smell gas in the crankcase or on that stick, change it. Oil is cheap compared to a spun bearing.

[Stepka]

'80 (if they are still correct year) carbs need the floats set to 23mm, your floats are to low right now at about 25mm.

Also, the replacement carb that you got, what is it from?

The replacement Carb is a 1980 from what I can tell. I got it from a local salvage yards bin, it was part of a set and everything matched. So if the float is to low it will still leak? I have been measuring from the gasket base w/o a gasket, is that right?

[Stepka]

Nick,

I certainly see focusing on the carbs, but I would definitely at least test the oil for gas in it before you even try to fire that engine up. Put a stick or something like it down through the oil fill and get some oil on it, then take it outside and try to light it on fire using a match or the like. If it has gasoline in it, it will burn. Honestly, if you can even smell gas in the crankcase or on that stick, change it. Oil is cheap compared to a spun bearing.

Will do, just don't want to waste my Amsoil on it till its 100%

[DGXSER]

Your measuring correctly. And Nate is correct, for the 80 and 81 XS carbs the float ehight is 23mm +/- .5mm

And I would use some cheap walmart oil until you get it all sorted out.

[jwhughes3]

Amsoil

Can you run Amsoil Synthetic in these without affecting the wet clutch? The clutch pack is running in the motor oil and the slipperiness of the oil can affect it I remember reading - has anyone successfully made the switch to a Full Synthetic? I run that in my cars but never changed the bikes because of my worries about slippage.

Thanks
John

[DGXSER]

The general concensus is that it can cause the clutch to slip. I say can, only because there have been reports of owners using the full synthetic with no il-effects. But the larger number have reported problems. Perhaps it only that the synthetic is exposing iffy clutch disc or springs, but all worked better after switching back.

For my money, I'm sticking with the dino-oil, and no I am not going to open up the can of what weight or type or blah blah blah...

[natemoen]

I agree synthetic will work BUT you need to start with new clutch disks. The old clutch disks are already saturated with dino oil and the 2 don't work together it seems. So synthetic is fine but plan on getting new clutch disks and soak them in the synthetic oil for prep.

[jetmechmarty]

I've switched back and forth between synthetics and "dino" oil with no ill affects. The synthetics I used have always been motorcycle specific. I have also used ROTELLA, etc. Currently, I'm back on YAMALUBE. My clutch works fine. Same with my XS650 that has been treated the same way.

[Rasputin]

The low vacuum numbers make me think of similar problems I had recently. make sure to check you cam timing adjustment when you do the valve shims. Do not forget and make yourself a whack of work like I did

[Stepka]

Thanks for all of the info guys. I will run regular oil till its running good than switch to amsoil motorcycle oil and see what happens.