XJ11 Caliper rebuild

[KA1J]

I have no idea how well the bike has been maintained till I got it. If the way the carbs were mis-adjusted (idle jets tightened 100% of the way down), I am replacing aging parts before running the bike on the road.

I'm replacing the brakes, looking for the best price on stainless braid brake lines and want to rebuild the calipers. I found one place selling the REAR Caliper rebuild kit but minus the fluid seal circular retaining circlip & I'd have to reuse the old one. I haven't replaced these before so I have no idea what the circlip looks like or how it's placed.

Does reusing the retaining circlip sound reasonable and is there any issue removing it or re-installing it in the caliper or wherever it goes?

Alternatively, suggestions where I can get complete OEM rebuild kits at a good price? AND is there any real benefit to getting OEM over aftermarket?

Thanks!

[natemoen]

I would say chacal at bikes.com would be your best bet for XJ lines, chexk out c-bug signature for a direct link.

As tocaliper rebuild kits, 98% of the time all they need is a total disassemble and cleaning and no new parts. So pull it apart first.

[lancelot455]

I would say chacal at bikes.com would be your best bet for XJ lines, chexk out c-bug signature for a direct link.

As tocaliper rebuild kits, 98% of the time all they need is a total disassemble and cleaning and no new parts. So pull it apart first.

That's good to know cause after storing mine for the winter and starting to ride this week i noticed that the rear brake is sticking. Looks like i'll be pulling it apart and cleaning it.

[James England]

I reused all three of my clips with no problems. As long as you don't severely distort it when removing it, you should be able to clean it a bit with wire wool and re-use it......

[jwhughes3]

wire wool

clean it a bit with wire wool and re-use it......

James does that "wire wool" come from these metal sheep?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilt/3351416956/


John

[KA1J]

Good replies.

I've rebuilt car calipers before but never a bike. Other than the obvious tears in anything rubber or pitting in the metal piston, is there something in the process I might need to be aware of before I start into it?

Thanks

[crazy steve]

I'd say the main thing to look at is getting the groove the piston seal fits into as clean as possible; at least 90% of the caliper problems reported is caused by corrosion behind the seal. If your bike has high mileage (I'd say 80K miles or more), I would use new seals as they may be worn enough to cause problems, but under that you can usually just thoroughly clean everything and reuse it.

[KA1J]

Mileage is around 20K but whoever owned it before had no conception of how to care for it properly. Ah well, that's my job now & I'm enjoying it. I have to admit it's fun to work on such a beautiful machine.

If it's not the age & constant exposure to the brake fluid that causes the pitting then it'll probably be OK. I don't see any leakage but I will need to clear out the spooge hole on the MC as there's sticking when the wheel is turned and the bike is pushed.

It was suggested to me to block off the brake hose port with a bolt and then use a grease gun to the bleeder to pressure out the piston. Since there's three calipers how else might I get the piston out easily with less mess?

[petejw]

hi kaij,

tho ive never done it, the grease gun works if u have
a seized calliper, if the callipers are working and ur pulling
them apart to clean, u can pump the lever til the piston just
about pops out and using a pair of multi grips remove the piston the rest
of the way, if u want to block the hoses off, clamp a pair of vice grips
to the rubber brake hose that will stop any fluid from getting past.

on reassemby coat the rubber seals with brake fluid or rubber grease,

and prime the master cylinder before attaching to the bike.

[natemoen]

Compressed air pops the piston out as well. Less mess, more dangerous. Put something like a wood door shim over the piston and wrap it with rags. That piston will go flying/smash fingers if left to its own devices!

[CaptonZap]

[QUOTE=petejw;318562]hi kaij,

if u want to block the hoses off, clamp a pair of vice grips
to the rubber brake hose that will stop any fluid from getting past.

QUOTE]

Uhh, I wouldn't do that. Gas lines, with no reinforcing braids, you might get away with that, but brake lines have woven cords in them, that when pinched, can be weakened or broken. You can't see it, but the damage is done, and when you do a "for real" panic stop, you don't want the hose to spring a leak where you pinched it.
Go ahead, and drain the old fluid, it probably needed it anyway. CZ

[petejw]

[QUOTE=CaptonZap;318573]

hi kaij,

if u want to block the hoses off, clamp a pair of vice grips
to the rubber brake hose that will stop any fluid from getting past.

QUOTE]

Uhh, I wouldn't do that. Gas lines, with no reinforcing braids, you might get away with that, but brake lines have woven cords in them, that when pinched, can be weakened or broken. You can't see it, but the damage is done, and when you do a "for real" panic stop, you don't want the hose to spring a leak where you pinched it.
Go ahead, and drain the old fluid, it probably needed it anyway. CZ

hi captainzap,
kai stated he was replacing his brake lines in his first post, so that wouldnt be a problem,
it was something we used to do on cars when replacing rear wheel cylinders,
or removing front callipers,
it only needs to be slightly clamped (pinched together) but i understand where ur coming from.

[lancelot455]

I am cleaning the rear caliper on my bike and am having a tough time getting the piston seal groove clean. Will a dremel with a brass brush work without damaging anything?

[Rasputin]

I found that a toothbrush dipped in Brake fluid loosened the gunk pretty good. The whole dremel thing might work but I would just pick away at it with hand stuff myself. The XJ's are harder to find parts for if you do bugger something up.

[lancelot455]

Thanks,
that's what i am doing now. Should have it back together soon