Installed 3 ohm coils, STILL missing in the Philippines!!!

[crazy steve]

I like to just remove the cams completely; it's not much more work, and gives you access to all the shims at once. This can be helpful, as you can sometimes just swap shims around for some of them and you may find you may only need to get a few 'new' ones. The main trick is to keep tension on the cam chain at all times so it doesn't slip off the crank sprocket, but that's not that tough to do. I just pull all the slack up and hang it over the carb side of the head with a weight through it to keep it tight. You do have to re-time the cams, but again that's not that big a deal.

The other helpful thing I've got is a set of feeler gauges that are ground .002" thinner on the ends, so the gauges are dual thickness (.006/.008", etc). These work great as a go/no-go gauge, as that's the allowable 'range' on the valve lash. The set I have is made by Blue Point (# FB-322, still available for under $15), but others probably make these too.

If you're 'metric challenged', remember that each 'step' in shim thickness equals about .002", so checking all lash numbers before pulling the cams will make it easy to figure what you need. If you have any with zero lash, you may need to do those twice.

[DAVINCI]

I have the head off mine right now and I am just waiting till I get the shims I need before I even put it back on. It is easier that way.

OK..OK..I PROMISE I'll look tonight.

Nate, if you do your shims on the bench, you will bend valves...not saying you were going to do that ...just saying..

[DGXSER]

I have done all three methods, mor eor less (not removing cams).

I used the tool once, not horrible , not simple.

When I was using the tool, I had one that just would not work with the tool. It just could not grip the lip and get tightened in place. For that one I took a very small screw driver and with the cam holding the bucket down, I pinned the screw driver between the cam (not on the lobe but on the rough cast part) and the edge of the bucket, very similar to what the tool does really. Held the bucket down holding the screw driver in place while I spun the cam lobe off it.

I have also loosend the cam caps all the way on one end and not alot on the other, tends to tilt the cam to maximize the lift on the end you want to remove the shim from.

[hanger10]

valves

Now, my buddy, who is a very good mechanic on dirtbikes, and I are gonna do this ourselves, trying to get my hands dirty a little. From what we understand from the manual, we need to measure the lash, then pull the shims that are in now to figure out what ones we according to the measurements, right? So, we will have to loosen the bolt caps to get out the original shims???

[hanger10]

Valve lash

Ok, here are the valve lash figures, we havent loosend the caps yet, and checked the shims in there now for numbers, but I wanted to post these measurements and see what you all think! Now, the one intake valve that is way off isnt the one that we thought was missing, so maybe we werent right, we were just going by the burn of the plugs, and the missing cylinder was running rich anyway, but the really bad intake was #2 cylinder, and we thought #3 was missing. Here are the numbers:

Cylinder 1- intake lash-.0045
exhaust lash-.007

Cylinder 2- intake lash .0015, and that was very tight!!!
exhaust lash-.0095

Cyliner 3- intake lash- .005
exhaust lash- .009

Cylinder 4- intake lash- .004
exhaust lash- .0085

[bikerphil]

I hope adjusting that #2 valve solves the problem, that would be nice.

[DGXSER]

The tolerances for your intakes is .004-.006, so your on the tight side of most of them and obviously way under on the one. For the exhaust it is .008-.010, so your tight on those also.

As to the process, I just did this tonight myself. First Put the bike on the centerstand and then turn the crank to the C mark on the timing plate, be sure to rotate the proper direction. Now pull the cam chain tensioner out.

Now work one side, intake or exhaust, at a time. First, stuff a rag into the cam chain galley so nothing goes down that little tunnel. Remove the cam cap nuts and washers all the way across one cam. Now use one screwdriver to help wedge up the cam on the end that your removing shims. Use another small screw driver to turn the valve bucket so the slot is facing in and get the tip to pop the shim out of the bucket using that slot. Use some sort of magnet on the screw driver to pull the shim out. Record shim size, and either replace with the right size, or leave the bucket empty and repeat across the cam as needed. When done with one cam, replace nuts and washers and tighten just snug. Move to next cam and repeat the process.

[crazy steve]

You only have two valves that 'need' adjusting; #1 exhaust, and the #2 intake. The exhaust will need one 'step' smaller, the intake two. All the rest are within spec, and changing shims will put them just 'over'. That intake is very likely your problem child; that clearance would just about disappear once the motor is warm...

You could adjust the intakes to the 'looser' early spec (.006-.008"), as that would give you a bigger 'window' before they need it again. Yamaha changed this simply to reduce valvetrain noise, not for any performance gain.

[natemoen]

OK..OK..I PROMISE I'll look tonight.

Nate, if you do your shims on the bench, you will bend valves...not saying you were going to do that ...just saying..

No i already bent my valves a couple weeks ago and it wasn't because of the table top....

[hanger10]

Shims

Thanx all so much for all the help!! We worked on the method DGXSER talked about, and if we get a small screwdriver and bend it a bit, and a magnet, my buddy can get to the shims, so I think we will try that, since I have no torque wrech, etc! Now, one more question, where can I buy the shims, and also the right jets????? Since Im gonna have to have the shims shipped here, I figured I might as well get jets also, but need advice on where to get the right stuff, that carb rebuild nightmare scared me from buying stuff!!!!!

[natemoen]

Well the shim are a bit difficult. You could try at a ford dealership, if you have any around you, there was a for car, here it was the Taurus SHO, engine that used the same shims. They are 29mm shims. There was another bike, I think kawasaki?, that used 29.5mm shims and you do not want those.

[hanger10]

shims

Im gonna buy the shims and jets online, and have them shipped to a friend there, and have him ship them to me. I just want to make sure and get the right ones, as I really got screwed on the carb kits I bought, and I figured someone here will know where to purchase the right ones!!

[natemoen]

The jets are available lots of places WWW.mikesxs.net has them http://www.siriusconinc.com/ has the. It is just that you need the 30/96 pilot jets. There are I think at least 3 different style jets that fit but only the 30/96 are correct.

Shims, like I said you need 29mm. This place has them for 6 buck each
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/home.do

This place has them, don't know the price though.
http://www.sudco.com/29valveshims.html

A lot of places seem to think the swims are made of gold or something, charging 20 to 50 a shim is stupid!

[MrOzz]

You can get shims off a Kawasaki or a BMW. They both used 29mm shims. Not all of them, so always double check.

[bikerphil]

This place has the shims and the BS 30/96 pilot jets....

To find the right pilot jets, click fuel system parts>misc. carb parts>idle jets.

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm