Couldnt kill the bike and had to disconnect battery

[chewie123]

Some crazy s--t just happened.

I just started my bike for the first time after working on it all winter and I have definitely done something it doesnt like. I started it up after filling the carbs up and it screamed to full open and i turned the kill switch instantly. I figured I had the idle mix turned to far from bench syncing the carbs. i turned the screw, started the bike again and it screamed full open again and i hit the kill switch - nothing, turned the key - nothing, so I had to unscrew the battery to kill it. I really hope I didnt hurt the engine, it was full open for maybe 20 seconds, (I had to run back to get a screwdriver)...

Has this happened to anyone? Is it running wide open from the idle screw? I put it pretty damn close to what it was when i started. The butterflies are definitely closed when it was running open. But more important than that is why did it not turn off? When I turned the key, all the lights went off, I actually pulled the fuses to see if that would do anything and it didnt. I just put in a new battery today, I filled it, let it sit for a bit then charged it on 2 amp setting for about 3 hours.

I dont wanna try to start it again until i know what to address cause I really dont wanna burn up the engine like that again - been waiting a loooooooong winter to ride soon.

[DGXSER]

I've heard of this several times before, bike not shutting down part anyway, seems it is the solenoid IIRC. If the solenoid sticks it will complete the circuit to let the engine run with the key out and kill switch off.

As to the idle issue. Could be a vacuum leak, could be idle screw to far out. When I first fired up Banshee after she had sat for several years, I had just freshly rebuilt the carbs. Well, clean properly jetted carbs give a much better mixture than gunky badly jetted ones do. So that idle setting was WAY high for the setup I now had. I'd start with runing the idle screw way down and see if that helps, if not then check your bench/bread tie synch. after that, look for vacuum leaks.

[1981XS]

I had this happen on a 79 Special i was rebuilding carbs for, had a heck of a time figuring it out until i noticed that when the tank was bolted down it went WOT and when it was propped up a bit it ran fine.....turns out the throttle cable was pinched and pulling under the tank......Simple things is what usually gets us the easiest lol....Good luck

[DAVINCI]

Well, IF it's a pre-'81 it could be the solenoid that's causing the run-on. but the '81 and up do not have the ballast bypass 'cause there's no ballast so that can't happen. If the solenoid sticks on an '81 and up, it will continue to crank, but not run.

Unless someone has swapped the wiring harness for an earlier one? It's been known to happen

As for the WOT, +1 on what was written above, something is jamming the throttle cable or mechanism at the carbs. Check your carb boot clamps. One may be interfering with the throttle mechanism. Don't ask me how i know!

[chewie123]

After thinking about it this morning, I forgot to mention I put clubmans on the bike just for kicks to try out this spring, which required me to re route the throttle cable - which might be to blame for the WOT. Im going to stick on the drag bars crazysteve hooked me up with and do the solenoid clean/rebuild in the tech tips and try her again - with the positive connection LIGHTLY screwed into the battery, in case the bike decides to freak out again.

It must have been pretty funny to see me running around freaking out trying to shut this thing off - I was some beers deep at the time and saying lots of four letter words, so tonight I think I will wrench sober (that seems like an oxymoron).

Thanks for the help guys, I will report back after I tame the beast.

[DAVINCI]

Chewie,

DO you or DON'T you have a pre-'81 bike?

[chewie123]

DAVINCI - sorry forgot to mention I have a 78E.

[DAVINCI]

OK, so that year/model verifies that your problem COULD be the solenoid. Before you take it apart, unplug the green-to-red/white at the solenoid. If it starts and keeps running with the key off, you've got some other f-ed up thing going on. if it starts and keeps cranking with the key off, the solenoid is sticking.

[CatatonicBug]

Just a thought, but pulling 2 plug wires usually works to kill the engine faster than unscrewing the battery.

[DAVINCI]

IDK, Bug, i once road home 40 mi with a bad TCI and running on 2 cylinders!

[chewie123]

Just a thought, but pulling 2 plug wires usually works to kill the engine faster than unscrewing the battery.

CB- ha yeah, now that I look back that would have been a better move...

[cywelchjr]

Pulling a plug wire on a running engine can be a really shocking experience, DAMHIKIJD.

[1981XS]

Pulling a plug wire on a running engine can be a really shocking experience, DAMHIKIJD.

about the only more shocking experience is touching one on an idling boat motor standing in the water behind the boat......... please dont ask me how i know this

[CatatonicBug]

IDK... I have done it a few times, but I do always use a hammer handle or something instead of grabbing the wires directly. I know that pulling one wire didn't kill it, but two of them always seemed to work.

[cywelchjr]

IDK... I have done it a few times, but I do always use a hammer handle or something instead of grabbing the wires directly. I know that pulling one wire didn't kill it, but two of them always seemed to work.

Do you pull 1 and 4 or do you pull 1 and 2 or 3 and 4? If you pull 1 of each coil, and hold it far enough that it can't arc to the frame or engine, that will kill it, but it CAN jump a couple of inches under the right conditions, and it WILL take the easiest path to ground. There are tools made to do this however, that are non-conductive. But your right, if you take 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 off, that should stop it from running right quick.