Bleeding technique confirmation

[xs1100newb]

Ok, so to confirm everything I have read.

I will first confirm that my lines and caliper are full of fluid by loosening the bleeder and pumping the lever until fluid comes out of the bleeding valve.

After this if confirmed I will pump the lever to build up pressure, hold the lever, loosen the bleedin screw for a short secod, tighten the bleeding screw and then release the lever. Repeat this process until everything is golden.

Does this sound right?

Quick question. When the lever is squeezed and you loosen the bleeding screw it becomes possible to squeeze the lever another half inch or so. Should I do this, or not?

Adam

[James England]

Definitely don;t do stage 4. Pump the lever with the bleeder tight, then keep the pressure on the lever and open the bleeder valve. Tighten the bleeder and repeat the process until no more air comes out. You should def. not be pumping the lever with the bleeder valve unscrewed...

[cywelchjr]

Another point I have found with the rear MC, don't pump that sucker fast when bleeding, pump slow. Pump slow and it will bleed pretty quickly. Never had to use anything but the MC to get mine bled other than a cheap little bottle that uses a magnet to stick to the bike and goes over the bleeder to catch the fluid and keep air from going back in. Just pump slowly and and don't try to press it further after you open the bleeder, just close it up, and pump it back up.

[DGXSER]

Basically, you want to keep pressure on the system with the lever while the bleed screw is open so your pushing air/fluid out of the system and not sucking air into it. It is also an issue with the MC on these bikes for the fornt nayway that you do not want to pull the brake lever all the way to the grip as it can mess up the seal inside the MC.

So, yes,

Step 1. Open bleeder with your tube attached and brake fluid in the cup or whatever you use, and pump till fluid and not just air is coming out of the bleeder. Repeat for opposite caliper as needed.

Step 2. With all bleed screws tight, pump the lever a few times to build good pressure. Now, loosen the bleed screw slowly until fluid/air comes out. With the bleed screw loosened, the lever will deprease some pushing the air and fluid out, this is when you retighten the bleed screw so as to not bottom out the lever, and do not let the lever loosen so as to draw air back into the system until the bleed screw is tight again.

Step 3. Verify you have decent level of brake fluid in the MC reservior.

Step 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have a nice firm brake, or you can't seem to get anymore progress.

Step 5. bungee the brake lever tight and leave it over night if required. Can't hurt either way.

Hopt that helps you out. Really no different than bleeding brakes in a car.

[cywelchjr]

Basically, you want to keep pressure on the system with the lever while the bleed screw is open so your pushing air/fluid out of the system and not sucking air into it. It is also an issue with the MC on these bikes for the fornt nayway that you do not want to pull the brake lever all the way to the grip as it can mess up the seal inside the MC.

So, yes,

Step 1. Open bleeder with your tube attached and brake fluid in the cup or whatever you use, and pump till fluid and not just air is coming out of the bleeder. Repeat for opposite caliper as needed.

Step 2. With all bleed screws tight, pump the lever a few times to build good pressure. Now, loosen the bleed screw slowly until fluid/air comes out. With the bleed screw loosened, the lever will deprease some pushing the air and fluid out, this is when you retighten the bleed screw so as to not bottom out the lever, and do not let the lever loosen so as to draw air back into the system until the bleed screw is tight again.

Step 3. Verify you have decent level of brake fluid in the MC reservior.

Step 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have a nice firm brake, or you can't seem to get anymore progress.

Step 5. bungee the brake lever tight and leave it over night if required. Can't hurt either way.

Hopt that helps you out. Really no different than bleeding brakes in a car.

I've also seen mention that it can be a good idea to put a piece of wood (heh heh heh I said wood) behind the lever when bleeding to make sure you don't pull it all the way in and push the rubber cup out off the bore making you have to disassemble the MC and have to put it back together and start over.

[xs1100newb]

Ok. So when I loosen the bleeder screw I should only allow the lever to depress further a slight bit. That way air and fluid willbe forced out, but I wont bottom out the lever?

Adam

Also,
Does anyone know the torque specification for the bolt on the outside of the caliper which has the rubber sleeve around it?

[natemoen]

Just to be very clear, i have not seen it specifically stated, When pumping the brake lever it goes as followed: loosen bleeder, squeeze and hold the brake lever, tighten bleeder, release brake lever. never release the brake lever until the bleeder is re-tightened.

[cywelchjr]

Just to be very clear, i have not seen it specifically stated, When pumping the brake lever it goes as followed: loosen bleeder, squeeze and hold the brake lever, tighten bleeder, release brake lever. never release the brake lever until the bleeder is re-tightened.

+1 to back up you as usual correct information.

[bikerphil]

Does anyone know the torque specification for the bolt on the outside of the caliper which has the rubber sleeve around it?

The torque spec for the single 12MM headed bolt on the Standard model caliper is 13 ft/lb.

[xs1100newb]

Just to be very clear, i have not seen it specifically stated, When pumping the brake lever it goes as followed: loosen bleeder, squeeze and hold the brake lever, tighten bleeder, release brake lever. never release the brake lever until the bleeder is re-tightened.

Are you saying that I should loosen tbe bleeder before pushing the lever?

Adam

[cywelchjr]

Are you saying that I should loosen tbe bleeder before pushing the lever?

Adam

No, Press the lever several times to build up some pressure, then when you have some pressure (or as much as you can get) open the bleeder, and fluid and air (or just air, or just fluid) will come out, close the bleeder and THEN release the lever.

[xs1100newb]

Ok. When the lever is pushed in and the bleeder is unscrewed it is possilble to then push the lever in further. Should I do this, or try to hold it steady?

Adam

[DGXSER]

For safety sake as this seems really new to you, put the 1/2"-3/4" block of wood between the grip and the brake lever, just tie to the lever. Now, pump the lever until you get pressure. Hold the pressure with your hand on the lever as you loosen the bleed screw. when the bleed screw lets out air or fluid, keep pressure on the lever and let it continue to pull toward the grip as you tighten the bleed screw. If it hits the block of wood, thats ok, just do not let the lever back out until you have the bleed screw tight again. Afte the bleed screw is tight, let loose of the lever and repeat. Remember to check your fluid reservior to keep it from going dry.

Really, it is not as tough as it seems to sound. And you will not hurt anything doing it wrong, just won't be very successful at getting the air out. So just go try it and it will make sense.

[xs1100newb]

Ok. Will do. Thanks a ton.

My only concernw as whether I should be allowing the lever to travel the full distance to the handlebar after loosening the bleeder valve. You just answered that question, so I am good to go now.

Thanks again,
Adam

[petejw]

hi adam,
heres a link to bleeding the front brakes using a piece
of tubing, one thing i did notice was that you didnt bleed
the master cylinder, have a look at the link, hopefully it will
help you.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31720

reallistically it shouldnt take longer than 5 - 10 min to bleed the system.