Bleeding technique confirmation

[xs1100newb]

Hello,

This question is in regards to my 1100 F.

I have cleaned the MC, reservoir, brake lines, and calipers of the front braking system. I have reassembled everything and I have now bled the brakes twice, however, I do not have good braking power.

Here are the steps I took to bleed the brakes.

Before I begin I attach a hose from the bleeding valve to a container on the ground filled with some brake fluid. I keep the hose immersed in the brake fluid and the hose loops to a point higher than the caliper.

1) I filled the reservoir with fluid
2) I squeeze and hold the brake lever
3) I loosen the bleeding valve
4) I pump the lever a couple of times and watch the level of the reservoir constantly topping it off.
5) I keep the lever squeezed and tighten the bleeding valve
6) I repeat steps 2-5 until I no longer see bubbles coming from the reservoir or the container connected to the bleeding valve


Is this correct?

Also, does anyone know the torque specification for the bolt on the outside of the caliper which connects to two sides of the caliper? It has a rubber sleeve around it.


Thanks,
Adam

[DGXSER]

Couple things I would suggest, and I may be misreading what you described.

1 After you pump fluid into the caliper from the MC, and have done both calipers to this point, then pump to build pressure at the MC, loosen the bleeder just enough to let the pocket of air there escape and retighten before you let the brake handle out at all.

2 Be sure you have a tight fit at the bleeder, or it will suck air around the tube and fluid sitting there.

HTH

[xs1100newb]

Thanks. I will try that out. Do you happen to know the torque specification for the bolt on the outside of the caliper that has the rubber sleeve around it?

Adam

[Wet Rock]

i do not think you do step #4

[xs1100newb]

How sure are you? Can anyone else confirm.

Since I have already done this process what needs to be done to fix it?

Thank,
Adam

[natemoen]

Some people have found that sometimes you just need to let it sit and let any stray air rise up to the mc as well.

[Wet Rock]

newb

unless the total length of the hose is filled with brake fluid from the begining of the process all that pumping of the brake with the bleeder open will prob suck more air into the system. you only pump with the bleeder closed

[xs1100newb]

Ok. I will try the method again without step #4.

[DGXSER]

two things, first is, you have to get fluid to fill the line and the caliper somehow. The fluid in the MC will push the air down into the caliper as you pump it, and some will comeback and through the "spooge hole" into the MC. So you do need to pump it until you get fluid coming out the bleeder. After you get fluidcoming out the bleeder, then you pump the lever with the bleeder closed until you get pressure at the lever, now hold the pressure on the lever and open the bleeder a crack to let the air pocket escape, but close it before you bottom out on the lever and definitely before you let the lever come back at all.

Second, a trick some of the old mechanics on here shared and I have used, after you have bled out all you can, if it is still abit soft, wrap a bungee or something around the brake lever with it squeezed in to apply pressure, turn the wheel so the front MC is the highest point, and let it sit with the pressure on over night. Used this trick a couple times and it always improved if not solved the issue.

[planedick]

Much easier

I just press the caliper pistons back pushing all the fluid, and air bubbles into the resavoir and then making sure it stays full and just pump until it's firm again....Pushing air bubbles down in a line like that is nearly impossible because the bubbles keep rising up in the line.

[Shacknasty]

Don't let the lever come all the way back to the handlebar. Make certain to stop about half an inch from the handgrip. Some folks (me included) use a spacer between the lever and the grip.

Do the pump and hold, and then crack the bleeder the tiniest bit and almost immediately retighten while squeezing on the lever. This is usually the time you want to grow a third hand.

I love Russell speedbleeders.

[Aches n Pains]

I agree with DGXSER. Bungee the brake lever and let it sit overnight and see what you get.

Other possibility would be to invest in a vacuum pump to help pull the brake fluid into the system from the caliper end. Speeds things up a bit. Mighty Vac makes a plastic system that isn't very expensive or an aluminum system if you will be doing this much. Still need to do the final bleed but this allows you to see the bubbles coming into the pump hose and get pretty close to finished.

http://www.compacc.com/p/Mighty-Vac-...1%20zmap=LO-MV

There are lots of other uses for a hand vacuum pump.

[crazy steve]

Other possibility would be to invest in a vacuum pump to help pull the brake fluid into the system from the caliper end. Speeds things up a bit. Mighty Vac makes a plastic system that isn't very expensive or an aluminum system if you will be doing this much. Still need to do the final bleed but this allows you to see the bubbles coming into the pump hose and get pretty close to finished.

http://www.compacc.com/p/Mighty-Vac-...1%20zmap=LO-MV

There are lots of other uses for a hand vacuum pump.

I bought one years ago, and that was one of the best tool investments I ever made. Main trick with a Mitivac is to put some teflon tape on your bleeder screws; makes the process much faster...

[natemoen]

I bought one years ago, and that was one of the best tool investments I ever made. Main trick with a Mitivac is to put some teflon tape on your bleeder screws; makes the process much faster...

Good to know!

[DGXSER]

Yes, the hose does not make a great seal to the bleeders, the tape should help that out.

I also bought a Mity-vac (stupid fricken rear MC on these things, only one I ever needed a vac pump for.) I also use it as my synch tool, or a pump to get the goo out of old master cylinders that have been neglected by a PO.