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  • Best way to decarbon an engine?

    Hola mi amigos. I know my bike has some carbon build-up because of a visual check and slightly high compression. I've been doing a lot of reasearch on the best way to decarbon an engine and from what I've seen, it could be narrowed down to three basic ways. 1. Run a high concentration of Sea Foam throught the engine (3/4 gall. of gas and 16 oz. of Sea Foam), 2. Spray some kind of solvent (Sea Foam, WD40, etc.) into the intake while the bike is running. 3. Spray water in the intake while the bike is running. Is there any consensus here on the "best" way?
    '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

    Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

  • #2
    I think that the best way to remove carbon is a 100 mile drive with a properly tuned engine.

    From time to time I do use 2 to 3 ounces of sea foam to a tank of gas.

    I am not a fan of large quantity of sea foam.

    A friend of mine “wingnut” used super strong sea foam mix once and it softened the “cream” in the tank and washed it in to the carbs coating the inside of the carbs making a real mess.

    Everything in moderation is the key.
    Salty dog
    Eastern NC
    XJ-1100 Naked Boy

    Comment


    • #3
      Never would have thought sea foam would do that. Something to remember I guess.
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

      Comment


      • #4
        you could try all those u have suggested,
        also Tarheeltriple makes a good point,

        but at the end of the day the best way to do it is to
        strip the top end apart and clean it, carbon
        gets built up in the exhaust ports, combustion chamber,
        tops of pistons, behind the piston rings.
        im doing this at the moment.

        also u want to determine why u have so much carbon
        built up, could be rings or valve stem oil seals.
        pete


        new owner of
        08 gen2 hayabusa


        former owner
        1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
        zrx carbs
        18mm float height
        145 main jets
        38 pilots
        slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
        fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

        [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

        Comment


        • #5
          You won't get rid of much carbon with seafoam in the tank .You have to spray or pour it into the carbs while it is running ,shut it down right away and let it sit for 10 minutes or so and then run it good on the centre stand . Make sure you are outside and stand up wind of the exhuast it will get thick .
          BDF Special
          80SG Vetter bagger 1196 Wiseco big bore kit, Mega Cycle Cams, slotted cam gears, ported and flowed head, bronze intake seats, Dyno Jet kit, Dyno coils and Mikes XS air pods, Venture cam chain adjuster,Geezer's regulator, Clutch mod, Mac 4 into 1 with custom built and tuned baffle, Oil cooler,MikesXS emulators mod.
          Dyno tuned to 98 hp at the rear wheel.

          Comment


          • #6
            I've often used running water into the intake on other vehicles with really good success. It's what I was taught to do by my HS shop teacher. Engines we pulled down afterwards were really clean. Now one thing he told me was to make sure to not just shut it down as soon as your done, but to run it a bit to get oil back up to the upper cylinder areas.
            Cy

            1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
            Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
            Vetter Windjammer IV
            Vetter hard bags & Trunk
            OEM Luggage Rack
            Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
            Spade Fuse Box
            Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
            750 FD Mod
            TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
            XJ1100 Front Footpegs
            XJ1100 Shocks

            I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

            Comment


            • #7
              ive done it they way to cy,
              u just need to be careful of the amount
              of water u pour in, to much, it will bypass the rings
              and end up in the oil.
              pete


              new owner of
              08 gen2 hayabusa


              former owner
              1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
              zrx carbs
              18mm float height
              145 main jets
              38 pilots
              slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
              fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

              [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

              Comment


              • #8
                Rider, Ive using Techron Concentrate Plus for the last couple of years in my Honda VTX which is also ,with pretty good results. The bottle only gives directions for an average vehicle so I figured it out to how many ounces for my tank and went from there. You should be able to find it at your favorite Auto parts store. Also if im not mistaken, there is a product similar but somewhat more expensive, sold at bike dealers. Whichever way you decide to use of all of these different ideas keep us posted .
                2005 Honda VTX 1300 c
                slightly custom

                1979 XS 1100 SF
                in the works

                1979 XS 1100F, or
                1978 XS 1100E
                parts bike

                1980 XS 1100 SG
                just sitting partly torn down by PO
                playing roll of parts bike for now




                Hate to break it to the purists here but I cant go for the whole stock thing on this one.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by petejw View Post
                  ive done it they way to cy,
                  u just need to be careful of the amount
                  of water u pour in, to much, it will bypass the rings
                  and end up in the oil.
                  I have aslo heard from a few mechanics that you have to be careful using water because you can damage the valves using too much water.
                  BDF Special
                  80SG Vetter bagger 1196 Wiseco big bore kit, Mega Cycle Cams, slotted cam gears, ported and flowed head, bronze intake seats, Dyno Jet kit, Dyno coils and Mikes XS air pods, Venture cam chain adjuster,Geezer's regulator, Clutch mod, Mac 4 into 1 with custom built and tuned baffle, Oil cooler,MikesXS emulators mod.
                  Dyno tuned to 98 hp at the rear wheel.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The water or seafoam into a HOT engine will work. Difference:
                    Water, Squirt a SMALL amount into each carb as you have the engine revving about 2,500RPM. Keep a fan blowing on the engine, and put a total of about 3 Oz. into each carb, about 30 seconds to put it all in.
                    When done, keep bike running for at least three more minutes to dry any water that may have gotten into the wrong place.
                    DO NOT do this more than once every 10K miles, as the water can burn the aluminum off the top of the pistons, and the head.
                    Seafoam, Again with the engine hot, squirt almost a full can of the spray into the four carbs, starting with the bike at about 1500RPM, and letting it kill the engine AFTER all four carbs have been hit. Shut the ignition and let the bike sit for ten minutes. Restart the bike and rev or ride it for a few minutes to "blow out" the now loose carbon.
                    To keep the carbon from building up, DO NOT USE PREMIUM GAS in a stock XS1100 engine. These engine are made to run on REGULAR GRADE gas, and mid grade or premium burns slower, and WILL cause a carbon build up in the engine.
                    Ray Matteis
                    KE6NHG
                    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thank you for all the advise.
                      '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

                      Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Try some RXP, it works great on my bike and all my cars.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          im doing a top end rebuild in a cpl of weeks
                          and thought id try this prior to the pull down,
                          and see what difference if any it does make.

                          ive got a 4 - 1 aquarium valve which ill attach to the
                          intake barbs with a restrictor connected to the
                          main line going into the water, as ray pointed out
                          ill fully warm up the engine prior and run it at a high idle
                          probably for around 10 min at a time, ill let u guys know
                          how it turns out, any other suggestions feel free to add.
                          pete


                          new owner of
                          08 gen2 hayabusa


                          former owner
                          1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
                          zrx carbs
                          18mm float height
                          145 main jets
                          38 pilots
                          slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
                          fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

                          [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Top engine cleaner. Its name is what it is made to do. Follow instructions on the can and make damn sure of the last instruction: change the oil.
                            However, if you intend to do a teardown for a recondition, why go through the trouble
                            '78 E "Stormbringer"

                            Purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion, runs like a gazelle (being chased by a cheetah).

                            pics http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...tormbringer45/

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                              Water, Squirt a SMALL amount into each carb as you have the engine revving about 2,500RPM. Keep a fan blowing on the engine, and put a total of about 3 Oz. into each carb, about 30 seconds to put it all in.
                              When done, keep bike running for at least three more minutes to dry any water that may have gotten into the wrong place.
                              DO NOT do this more than once every 10K miles, as the water can burn the aluminum off the top of the pistons, and the head.
                              Now, that's one I've never heard. I was always told that water was about the safest method there was as long as you didn't squirt in too much and 'hydraulic' the motor.

                              I know that 'back in the day' when super premium gas disappeared and the guys with the big compression ratio motors were trying to figure out what to do (besides buying Avgas), full-time water injection setups became popular for a time. They weren't a cure-all (most ended up either running a octane booster, or lowered their compression ratio), but I don't recall any problems with a properly set up system...
                              Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                              '78E original owner - resto project
                              '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                              '82 XJ rebuild project
                              '80SG restified, red SOLD
                              '79F parts...
                              '81H more parts...

                              Other current bikes:
                              '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                              '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                              '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                              Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                              Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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