General Mechanics Question: lubed threads

[natemoen]

But that's what's needed for the break in process.

On that note, this is a moot point for Loho if the cylinder doesn't show any scaring when he pulls the head. The rings will stay seated if they were already seated and the jugs don't get pulled off.

Just take it a little easy till 5 or 6 g then go.

But yes the point is moot...

[cywelchjr]

Just take it a little easy till 5 or 6 g then go.

But yes the point is moot...

That or do second, although there aren't many places around here where that isn't a ticketable offense.

Especially with the 750 FD.

[petejw]

+1 on the don't warm it up first. This link here gives information on how to PROPERLY break in an engine, and prevent glazing of the cylinder walls as can happen if you actually follow manufacturers recommendations.

just in relation to the warm up,
the engine should be warmed up
to operating temp before the initial run in,
this should be done for around 15 minutes at a fast idle.
the link u posted also states to fully warm up the engine prior
to running in.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Nate,

I didn't mean to just warm it up and then shut it down, but to do whatever style of re-breakin procedure he wanted to do, but then after it cools back down from the first initial run, to then retorque/recheck the torques due to the possibilty of it loosening after the heating/cooling cycle.

I wish I had read/seen that breakin procedure when I rebuilt my topend some 10 years ago!
T.C.

[natemoen]

No prob, just figured I would expand it a bit.

[LoHo]

Thanks for the positive vibes gents. Hopefully, once I tear the head off, clean up the oil leaks, maybe resurface the cylinders, maybe have to put in new rings, I won't have to continue looking for the spark problem...

[natemoen]

Hopefully you don't have to do anything to the cylinders!

[clcorbin]

That's the same method I used when I broke in my (then) new 2005 Mustang GT. But please NOTE: He says to start it, WARM IT UP, then run the break in runs! Do NOT start hitting it hard UNTIL it is warmed up. What he was warning about was just starting it, letting it warm up, then shutting it off WITHOUT load cycling it to break in the rings.

As for my car, I broke it in pretty much following his instructions with the load cycling. I can say this about MY car:

1) AT 63,000 miles, it STILL doesn't use a drop of oil between oil changes (at 7500 mile intervals) and

2) Both myself and my brother have driven 3 other 05/06 GTs (all stick cars like mine) over the course of a year. While I was thinking it, he was the first one to say "Man! Your car just PULLS harder than the other GTs we have driven!"

I'm sold on it. The engineering is sound. Heck, the break-in procedure the manufacturers recommend is ALSO sound, IF you are the manufacturer and want to make sure you minimize warranty claims. But be sure to warm your new engine up before you start the break-in procedure. Cold parts are tight parts and you don't want to start breaking things in before everything is operating at the correct warm clearances.

[natemoen]

But new rough parts cause a lot of heat, especially in an air cooled engine. If you started it, and put on your jacket, helmet, and gloves you would be warm enough.

[LoHo]

Let me get opinions on this scenario: I get all of the work done and by some miracle she starts right up. Can I shut it down quickly, put her all back together (seat, covers, etc.), then start her, warm her a little, then hit the bricks? Just a few seconds of idling won't jack up the ring seating, I hope. One of the things I'm thinking is that the top ring of #3 might be deformed by the damned lock washer.

[cywelchjr]

Let me get opinions on this scenario: I get all of the work done and by some miracle she starts right up. Can I shut it down quickly, put her all back together (seat, covers, etc.), then start her, warm her a little, then hit the bricks? Just a few seconds of idling won't jack up the ring seating, I hope. One of the things I'm thinking is that the top ring of #3 might be deformed by the damned lock washer.

That should be ok, just don't idle it for a while and THEN shut it down to do later. Once you have it running, shut it down and get it put together and ready for the warmup and break-in run. The point is you want to wear the rough stuff off under full load, not at idle cause then the rings won't ever seal all the way.

That's why I was impressed when I saw the show about Honda's MC factory, cause every Goldwing get's started and warmed up and then gets a full chassis dyno run before it gets taken over to the shipping area where it gets boxed for shipping. That's probably why Honda products do so well with that kind of attention to detail.

[3Phase]

Loho, if you used plenty of oil when you set the jugs on the pistons you should be fine.

If in doubt, add a few teaspoons of oil through the spark plug holes before you try to start the engine the first time. Turn the engine over a couple of times then let the oil that didn't shoot out the plug holes because you didn't cover them with rags seep past the rings into the crankcase while you clean the oil off of you, the work area and the bike while you finish assembling everything.

Basically, just don't idle the engine or rap the throttle until you are actually ready to warm it up and take it out to seat the rings under load.

[petejw]

hi loho,
not sure if ur aware of it or not,
but use a 30 weight mono oil to run the engine in,
it has no to little detergents in the oil compared
to a 20/50 weight oil which would otherwise
cause the cylinders to glaze.

[melbxs]

hi loho,
not sure if ur aware of it or not,
but use a 30 weight mono oil to run the engine in,
it has no to little detergents in the oil compared
to a 20/50 weight oil which would otherwise
cause the cylinders to glaze.

Let us know the details of your run-in procedure with your new rings Pete.

[cywelchjr]

hi loho,
not sure if ur aware of it or not,
but use a 30 weight mono oil to run the engine in,
it has no to little detergents in the oil compared
to a 20/50 weight oil which would otherwise
cause the cylinders to glaze.

Just rechecked the break in guys site, he says to use 10w40 dino oil. This guy clearly knows what he's doing, and he says to use multi grade oil, so I think you have wrong information/old wives tale information. It didn't sound right to me which is why I checked. What you say is true about using synthetic oils, but detergents don't cause glazing, for that matter, it's almost impossible to find even mono grade oil without detergents, and that I could find does NOT meet the minimum standards for protection, and is intended for air compressors and the like.