Does anyone in or around the Oklahoma City area blast and paint motors? I am getting ready to re-build my XJ1100 motor with a Wiseco kit and wanted to get the rest of the motor looking good. Have most of the outer engine parts already cleaned and polished, needing the bottom end, head and cylinders done. Thanks
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Blasting/painting motor
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Jamie,
If you have a compressor that can handle it, Harbor Freight has the sand hopper with the gun for about $30. That's what I used and it worked fine.1980G Standard, Restored
Kerker 4 - 1
850 Rear End Mod
2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
Automatic CCT
1980GH Special, Restored
Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
'82 XJ1100 (Sold)
Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.
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If you do have the cases blasted, I'd recommend going with soda blasting. It won't leave harmful grit around to get inside your engine...
GeezerHi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.
The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.
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dad, the genius, and I used aircraft stripper to clean the engines up and then just rattle can painted with a high gloss high heat paint, turned out great and was super cheap. geniusloerts or ridinagain should have pixCasey
1980 xs1100g "Frankenstein" (Now with a mind of his own!)
"What do you mean I can't park this thing here?"
"Shiny side up? I don't have a shiny side."
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Kawasaki 74 XL400S, 83 550 GPz
Honda 86 GL1200, 80 XL500S, 82 750 Nighthawk
Yamaha 78 XS1100E, 80 XS1100G, 92 YZ80
Suzuki 82 GS650L
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Jamie,
Here's a link to the string where you can see the progress with pictures.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30638
Just cut and paste it to get there, having 'puter problems with my browser.
I basically used, and am using, Duplicolor/VHT products. On the engine I used the high temp primer then painted it with satin black. On the frame I used a glossy black epoxy paint meant for rims and other suspension parts. It dries to a very hard and fairly chip-resistant finish.
On the gold stuff I'm using their brightest gold paint, which is never as shiny or metalic as shown on the lid, and then I clear coat it with a finishing product they have for rims and such. Again, it cures to a hard chip-resistant finish, and so far hasn't yellowed on the front rim of my G.1980G Standard, Restored
Kerker 4 - 1
850 Rear End Mod
2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
Automatic CCT
1980GH Special, Restored
Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
'82 XJ1100 (Sold)
Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.
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Use air craft coating remover to get the bulk of the paint off it and then glass bead it. Make sure you plug all opening to the engine completely and securely. I pack the opening with clean rags and then duct tape everything tightly. Even with this done avoid pointing the chosen media at the sealed openings.
RobKEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN
1978 XS1100E Modified
1978 XS500E
1979 XS1100F Restored
1980 XS1100 SG
1981 Suzuki GS1100
1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
1983 Honda CB900 Custom
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