82 XJ 1100 "Naked Boy" project - Finished

[wingnut]

Ok, give up your source... Where do you get them?

Please?

I participated in this debate years ago on replacing the fuse block. The TC fuse block works real well. The blade type are more robust but require that you slot holes or otherwise mod the mounting system. On the XJ650s it requires you to relocate the whole assembly, or cut clearance in the mount plate. On the XJ1100 you have a clearance problem with the side cover right off the bat. If I don't have to why should I. The glass fuses work well and I have never had a problem finding out if one had failed like some folks. OHM meters are cheep and there are a couple lying around the shop. If this bike was exposed to off road or vibrated excessively the blades would be warranted. The way we use them the glass fuses will last longer than I will. Some of the fuses on my 81 are OE from all indications. The brass clips are a different story. The brass clip gets fatigued or corroded and it fails. Down at the Salty Camel garage we have replaced or rebuilt every fuse box that has rolled (or was dragged) thru the door as a matter of course in the resurrection. I don't care what method you use its just the fact that you start there in the fuse box before you go off chasing electrical windmills. I've even had folks on the XJ forum tell me that a bad fuse or holder can't be responsible for weak spark. BS. All that aside here is the source data for the replacement clips. They slip right in and are secured in place using the existing retention method. We have had to use a touch of super glue on backplates that had been overheated due to corrosion on the big white connector from the alternator. These clips have an added feature that holds the fuse in better than the OEM.

Allied Electronics (www,alliedelec.com)
Fuse Clip, nvet mount
Manufacturers part number 3533
Manufacturers Name Keystone Electronics

[thecamelman79]

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...49#tab=Reviews

[DGXSER]

I myself have put in several or more of the TC fuse boxes, I like the simplicity of the fix. I do agree that SOMETHING should be done with the factory fuse box 100% of the time. The thing just was not meant to last this long and they don't.

However, you have found parts I was not aware existed, and have the skill and technique to use them. And if you have no problems finding the glass fuses in the sizes required, then do it however you like.

Bike is looking incredible!! Awesome detailed work there. Very impressive!

[motoman]

Good to hear someone wanting to keep the scoot original as they could. Kept my original fuse block as it was still clean, brass tangs started breaking off. Soldered a couple before making the change. Nice of someone doing the legwork for the correct replacement fuse holders. BTW, have seen many a fuse block with the glass type fuses in a way worse enviroment and jolts than these scoots will ever encounter, washboard dirt road, off road, whatever. IMO, the SS replacement tangs will not succumb to metal fatigue under load as easily as the brass and likely outlast the bike. Those automotive fuses can still be had at any auto parts store or most hardware stores, so that's not an issue anyways.

[thecamelman79]

Hey guys one more thing down, many more to go.
Even through I should be working on cleaning up the shocks and rear wheel, I'm kinda on this electrolysis kick and so I decided to go after those crusty looking pipes hanging up on the wall after the kids went to bed yesterday.

Not much to talk about here just a lot of pics. Which I will let speak for themselves.

Before:

























Filling up the tank:


Now before anybody says anything about it.
Yes I know the bottom of my pipes are connected upside down in the pics.
By the time I was done it was about 3 in the morning and I was out of coffee and tired. When I loaded up the pics I immediately had a head slap moment and figured you guys would get the point any ways.

Below is the finished product using my normal process, dip, scrub, dip, scrub, dip, scrub, wash. I next took them over to the buffer, and used turtle wax chrome polish to finish them off.







Still need a right hand heat shield if any one has one for trade or cheap.



















One thing to remember that I’ve leaned is that electrolysis is not a magic bullet. All it does is helps to reduce the bond of rust to steel. You still have to mechanical remove the rust with a stiff, brass wire brush, liquid soap, etc.

Today, Salty Dog took and sprayed the Y-collector, the cross over pipe, and the back side of the pipes with 2000 degree clear. Basically spraying everything that is not visible from standing next to the bike and cant easily be reached to polish down the road later on.

Next for these pipes it to fabricate up something for the rear baffle. The PO I guess decided he wanted a Harley and didn’t just punch hole in it. He quite skillfully I might add cleanly cut out the whole thing. I was wondering if any body had some rusted out old pipes that they would like to donate for the project that I might be able to salvage a baffle from? Thanks in advance.

Till next time.
~Camel

[SFerinTEXAS]

The amazement never stops. I'm glad that a few haven't stopped your willingness to share. Keep it coming.

[thecamelman79]

The amazement never stops. I'm glad that a few haven't stopped your willingness to share. Keep it coming.

I welcome both the critizism and the compliments, I usally find both to be very helpful, I know everyone has only got the best intentions in mind. especialy CY, from what I've read of his post he is spot on when it comes to electrical.
Beside they may help me down the road one day spotting something I over looked, been known to happen .

[natemoen]

Still amazed by the work!

[CaptonZap]

Today, Salty Dog took and sprayed the Y-collector, the cross over pipe, and the back side of the pipes with 2000 degree clear. Basically spraying everything that is not visible from standing next to the bike and cant easily be reached to polish down the road later on.

That is amazing!
What is the brand name of the high temp clear paint? That has some definate possibilities.
Thanks, CZ

[thecamelman79]

http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP115-Flam.../dp/B000CPJLGW

This is what I bought. Had to get it from Amazon becuase none of the local guys carry anything above 500 in a clear. Sprayed the whole motor with the stuff

[Tarheeltriple]

Hey nice pipes

[Kronk]

Bike looks good guys, Keep it up!

[daveyg]

For your baffle problem, if you can get me some measurements, I can make some billet aluminum end caps, and just use a perforated steel tube as a baffle, would be a bit higher flow and louder than stock, depending on your baffle design... Just an option to think about.

Pipes look beautiful, BTW...

[thecamelman79]

Thanks Dave but I think we might have it covered. We got some stainless cut up and a piece of ridgid pipe that Salty is going to do some metal smithing with tommorow. If everything goes right I should have some basically Final pictures of the build up in a couple of days. Everthing is basically on the bike except pipes, seat, and tank.

We made some noise today and lit him off for a minute, but running "Naked boy" with out the pipes on is about pointless from a tuning stand point.

But if you wanted to make me a right hand heat sheild and send it to me that would be Great! Darn thing is being a pain to find.

[thecamelman79]

fixing a punched out baffle.

Alright guys,

This week on Salty Camel's garage we will learn how to fix the damage done by a wanna be “Harley” rider PO that has punched the rear baffles out of a perfectly good set of pipes.

This is all and Salty and Wingnut's brain child all I did was took pictures.

First they took some measurements and got some 16 gauge SS plate cut.

They took and and cut one new baffle 4 1/8” circle with another hole cut in the center 1 1/8” wide.



Then they needed something for this to bear on at the right distance out from the pipe, So the cut another piece 14” long by 1 ¾ “ wide and rolled it by hand to fit the inside of the pipe snugly under it's own spring tension allowing it to over lap its own end by about an inch.



Then we needed a tube of some sort to connect the new outside baffle to the inner one. Salty picked up a 12”x 3/4” threaded nipple, cut it into two pieces 4 1/2” long and tapered and ground one end down a little.



Next it was time for some clean up. Using a grinding stone and a dremel we ground out all the little burs and some spot welds smooth on the inside so the 14” rolled back up collar would fit snugly against the side walls of the pipe, and installed in the pipe.



Salty took his nipple and some conduit nuts and attached it to his new exterior baffle.



He then took and slid it into the pipe using a punch to tap it snugly against his back up collar. It was tight any bigger and it might not of worked.



At this point the new baffle was in there tight enough that it probably would of stayed in on its own for quite a while before eventually vibrating loose, but why chance that and leave it half a$$. So Salty applying some of his electrical and plumbing skills procedure to solder it into the pipe nice and secure. (We talked about brazzing it in there but we were worried about getting the pipe too hot an ruining the chrome that clean up so nicely)



And before any of you start saying the pipes will melt the solder, take a look, We took this picture the minute the pipe was hot enough to melt the solder. I don’t know about your pipes but I sure as heck don’t think mine will ever get this hot on there own



Finally we took and painted the inside with 1200 degree flat Bar-b-cue paint and hung the pipes one the bike.



Till next time guys, See ya'll on the Tarmac!
~Camel