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clutch plate recommendations

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  • #16
    Starter slip.

    Yes, they have reported that problem as well. The starter clutch is a simple 3 rod/shaft compression grab design, they slide down a slotted groove and are squeezed against the starter shaft. But with the full synth, they can't get a good grip onto the shaft, they just slip around it instead of being able to pinch it. So...hopefully you are seeing that the Full Synth is probably causing several of your problems, and an oil/type change is warranted!!

    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

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    • #17
      I agree with Steve Linderman that basic proper clutch adjustment is crucial. Sadly, sooner or later the poor tired 25 year old clutch wont respond to adjusting, no matter what you do. You're then really left with no alternative but to try other options.

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      • #18
        Well....

        clutch did not need adjustment, and 20w50 dino juice didn't help either. looks like i have a new project.

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        • #19
          Just to chime in to what everyone else was saying - yes, fully synthetic car oil can and most likey will give you clutch and/or starter clutch slippage.

          I ran Mobil1 15w40 (maybe 15w50, can't rememeber) for a few months and it worked great, then my starter wouldn't engage and my clutch started to slip a little.

          If you want to use Synthetic, get motorcycle synthetic oil like Golden Spectro or Castrol Motorcycle Synthetic or whatever other brand you like. The biggest problem in regards to synthetic oils in these bikes is that darn wet-clutch.
          1979 XS11F Standard - Maya - 1196cc (out of order)
          1978 XS11E Standard - Nina - 1101cc
          http://www.livejournal.com/~xs11

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          • #20
            Someone once said that the synthetics made for cars were required to include additives (zinc?) to help preserve emmission control devices. The additives cause a slippery coating on the parts you need friction for, like the clutch and the starter. Yes, it is too slippery.
            Skids (Sid Hansen)

            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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            • #21
              Why is 20w50 better than 10w40 for our bikes. Later 'Dog

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              • #22
                20W50

                Cause our bike are old and tired like me, the 20/50 weight doesnt thin out as much when it gets hot, so it will tend not to bypass the rings,seals etc. In other words ya wont use as much oil. now that is just my opinion Dog, i have been wrong before HTH...............MITCH
                Doug Mitchell
                82 XJ1100 sold
                2006 Suzuki C90 SE 1500 CC Cruiser sold
                2007 Stratoliner 1900 sold
                1999 Honda Valkyrie interstate
                47 years riding and still learning, does that make me a slow learner?

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                • #23
                  Thanks Mitch, I thought that might be why but wasn't sure. Later 'Dog

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                  • #24
                    In case some one is considering a Barnett clutch, don’t. I’ve installed a few of them including a set on one of my bikes. They don’t slip but quite often they don’t release either. I had to start the bike in gear with the rear brake and the clutch lever tight against the bars to break it free. Then it would still grind into second. I replaced it after only a few hundred miles and after I managed to bend a shift fork.

                    On the other hand a Veserah clutchs act like stock and some people say they slip less than stock but I’ve never ran one hard enough to find out.

                    Geezer
                    Hi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.

                    The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.

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                    • #25
                      geezer thanks a ton for the advice.

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