clutch plate recommendations

[beechfront]

time to rebuild my clutch - after some reading on this forum i've come up with a couple of choices

1 - barnett clutch kit.
------downside is i read on a thread that their plates are sometimes warped.

2 - partsnmore
-------set of 8 cost $32


I don't need high performace stuff. just something that will work good.


any thoughts?

[CA.XSer]

time to rebuild my clutch - after some reading on this forum i've come up with a couple of choices

When is your clutch slipping? Are you sure you need plates? Mine was slipping in 3rd or 4th at 4000 rpm and up. Replaced springs and working fine.

[KurtG]

I used the Parts N More discs and they work just fine, I also replaced the springs since they were at the short end of the service limit specified in my manual. I cleaned up the metal plates with some 600 grit sandpaper and all is well again. My metal plates were badly glazed and the friction plates were pretty thin.

[beechfront]

well i'm not sure - i suppose it could be the springs. I've got 25k on the bike now so I figure since I'm gonna have it apart I will just both springs and plates.

Kurt - where did you get the springs at?

[KurtG]

I had a set of OEM springs that came with my bike. Dennis Kirk lists a set of Vesrah springs for around $13.00/set and there are probably other aftermarket sources like Barnett.

[pgg]

Regarding the clutch - if the friction plates are fine - 3mm, and the cable adjustments are right, and the steel plates are good, Then the large thrust plate (left hand side) will probably be worn and polished where it contacts the first friction plate. (all 25 year old thrust plates must be pretty much the same by now)

You can dull it down with sandpaper, then if you can find a spare steel plate somewhere, you slap that in to tighten things up again. Plate order = f-s-f-s-f-s-f-s-s-f-s-f-s-f-s-f. Stiff springs with one less coil are excellent too. Another way to tighten the clutch is to grind the tips off the thrust plate spring holders, but you're talking real fine tolerances and its too easy to stuff things up altogether.

I've ridden probably 10,000 or so miles on a tricked up 1196 with the extra plate setup and it has never slipped, even when I put motor-up in the oil once. (Slippery stuff that motor-up).

[mitch]

pgg

Are you saying you can add an extra steel plate and the clutch will still release? Cool !......MITCH

[Jerry]

A popular set-up is using stock (new) Yamaha friction disks and plates but switcing to the Barnett clutch springs. Several people over the yeas have reported this is a very good combination for all-around use.

[pgg]

Still plenty of adjustment available with an added plate Mitch. P.S. the springs I've used weren't the "barnett" brand but a brand called "supreme". They must be similar to "barnett", and are rated 10% stiffer and have 6 coils instead of 7 (no binding).

[Steve Linderman]

Clutch Remedy

Hey Guys...
Has anybody thought about the possibility of a "proper adjustment"
I'd be willing to bet that with only 25k on it...the clutch is AOK...and just needs to be adjusted "properly"
All 6 (Six) XS 1100's that I've owned had clutch "trouble" at one time or another...the only one that needed replacement before 40k (or so) was one that was thoroughly THRASHED by the PO
If you follow the correct proceedure...the "problem" usually goes away.

Except (usually) under the following conditions:
1. Long term sitting
2. Poor maintenance
3. Improper usage
4. Incorrect adjustment (then operating for long periods)
5. Broken or damaged internal parts

You should evaluate the reason or condition under which the clutch slips...
If it "chatters" or "slips" from the start...it could be plates, springs or discs...or the adjustment.
If it "slips" at high speed or RPM'S...it could be plates, springs, discs or adjustment...in ANY case...the cheapest "fix" is ADJUSTMENT...plus it's not uncommon for this VERY powerful machine to slip its' clutch at or near the oil change period.
Yes the type and grade of motor oil you use can affect clutch performance.
I would first change the oil...then follow "step-by-step" the correct proceedure for adjusting the clutch...then ride it...and if need be...you can 'fiddle' with the final adjustment (handlebar) while you "test ride" it.
Sometimes a very minor adjustment at the lever can make ALL THE DIFFERENCE
And that don't cost squat
Good Luck

Steve

" I don't wanna Pickle...I just wanna ride my MotoSickle"
" ARLO GUTHRIE cir-1963"

[beechfront]

well I'm definitely needing an oil change soon - and I've been using full synthetic which I've read will (can) cause more slippage. I will check the adjustment first - but I did properly adjust the clutch around 3-4 thousand miles ago.

Me - I'm not too comfortable fixing the problem by changing motor oils. I could be wrong - but I don't think the clutch should be so picky that it will slip when using a certain type of oil. I see that as a sign it's about to go.

I figure I can replace the clutch plates/springs for around $50 - I'd rather do it now than have problems 1000 miles from home.


How often is clutch adjustment normally needed anyway?

[Steve Linderman]

Clutch Fix

Beechfront,
you certainly Must know that the clutch is SUBMERGED in oil
Any additives/oil or oil CAN and WILL cause XSive clutch slippage
Most will tell you that Synthetics cause the MOST problems
Talk with any (long TIME) motor re-builder and they can x-plain the reasons why...
Fiber clutch discs...need I say more?
If the oil is "super slippery"...where's the clutch again ?
SUBMERGED IN OIL
I've adjusted my clutch in the AM...rode her...and had to re-adjust in the afternoon...riding reveals what "static" adjustments can't I've even "played" with the adjustment while riding
continue to adjust until there's NO OTHER option ...it's still the "cheapest fix"
AND I'M still willing to bet your clutch plates are FINE...after you remove them...measure the thickness...and think of all the other things you could have done instead on that day (like ride it)
Keep the "old ones" and that way when the "new ones" wear out you'll have another set handy
We still haven't heard when/why the clutch "slips" this could hold the "answer"
And if "you have problems" 1000 miles from home...just don't stop on the way back

Or do like Jason (batman) drag your feet and go 100+ mph...will that help the clutch? probably NOT...but it looks KOOL
GOOD LUCK !!!
Steve

[beechfront]

seems the clutch slips under heavy acceleration, usually somewhere after 5500 - but sometimes much lower than that. When cold, it slips at a much lower rpm which is a little wierd to me.

it's behaving much differently than it did when it was out of adjustment. When it was out of adjustment, it was slipping only in certain gears and at a very specific RPM. Now it is all gears, varying rpms. I suppose it could just be more out of adjustment now than before - but I don't know why it would all of a sudden get this much worse.

yes I do know it is submerged in oil, and like I said - I don't feel comfortable fixing the problem by changing motor oils. It has worked fine all along using synthetic, and now it doesn't. Unless it suddenly came out of adjustment quite a bit, I can't help but think it is the clutch plates/springs.

I was also pushing the ol' girl pretty hard prior to the problem. Don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I ran 800 miles in one day, 85 - 90 mph, with a heavier load than normal.


will check the adjustment first... if that doesn't do it I'll be replacing the plates & springs.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Beech,

It may be a combination of factors. Your clutches and springs might have been tight enough earlier in their wear so that your use of SYNTHETIC didn't affect it very much. But then, that hard driving along with some wear in the plates could have then added and aggravated the slipping especially with that slipperier synthetic oil. The plates may not be worn enough to replace if you were using regular oil, but they may be too worn with not enough pressure to hold them/keep them from slipping with the synth oil!!!

So...along with a good adjustment, changing the oil to DINO style might greatly improve your clutch performance. With a wearing out clutch, you usually first notice it mainly in the higher gears where there is more stress against the plates due to less leverage with the drivetrain vs. the lower gears. With your symptoms of it slipping in many gears and many rpm ranges, sounds like it's the oil causing a lot of the trouble.

And, if you replace your plates and springs, but keep using synthetic, you will probably encounter slippage again from less wear in the plates much sooner than you would running Dino oil. Many folks have experienced the pitfall of full synth and clutch slippage. Good luck!
T.C.

[beechfront]

i also noticed at very cold temps, my starter was having trouble engaging. I read somewhere on here too that that is more common when using full synth.