clutch

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Clutch

I am now having some trouble with my clutch. It was running and riding great. Then it started slipping in 2nd and 3rd a few times. I parked it and after a week or so went to crank it and clutch lever is real loose. I took the plate off and it appears the clutch lever is being pulled up. With it running I can't get it into gear, grinds. after reading I figured out I used wrong oil. I used 20/50. If I replace oil or is there anything else I should do? Is there a way to adjust the clutch?

Thread seamed to get off your needs, it happens. Sounds like you have a binding somewhere, most likely the cable, easy check. Lossen and disconect the cable from the clutch lever and see if it moves freely when pulled back by hand, if not, might try lubing the cable but if it is that tight, I would replace it. If the cable is free, you will need to check the clutch lever and through out bearing for binding and lub/replace as ness. I would replace the springs while at it, cheap fix, good luck

[b.walker5]

I am now having some trouble with my clutch. It was running and riding great. Then it started slipping in 2nd and 3rd a few times. I parked it and after a week or so went to crank it and clutch lever is real loose. I took the plate off and it appears the clutch lever is being pulled up. With it running I can't get it into gear, grinds. after reading I figured out I used wrong oil. I used 20/50. If I replace oil or is there anything else I should do? Is there a way to adjust the clutch?

Seems to me like theres two problems here.. The first sounds like a binding cable, disengaging and but not fully releasing the clutch..

Then it started slipping in 2nd and 3rd a few times. I parked it and after a week or so went to crank it and clutch lever is real loose. I took the plate off and it appears the clutch lever is being pulled up.

but the second statement sounds like a clutch that isnt releasing ...

With it running I can't get it into gear, grinds.

Actually, now that I think about it, it's probably the same thing. If the cable is binding, it may not be fully disengaging the clutch either, which would definately give you shifting issues.

The oil's fine, as already stated, replace or lube the cable, and adjust the clutch at all three points, the actuator lever, the cable length adjuster and the handlebar lever free play, if required, and enjoy riding again.

[bdw72]

Well thanks for the info, sorry for what may seem like crazy question, but I always research how ever I can before I jump into what I may think it is. I have learned from experience better to ask and get sarcastic answer then to dive in and wish I would have. You guys are the best I have never found so many people willing to help. Now how do I oil the cable, and adjust the clutch? I looked for it on the tech tips and didn't see anything.

[bikerphil]

Clutch adjustment...

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...ng-clutch.html

[b.walker5]

Okay, oiling the cable the easy way involves buying an a small tool that attaches to your cable, that you fill with oil and allow it to work it's way through. The hard way is to remove the cable, hang it from your garage roof and drip oil or WD40 into it at regular intervals until it drips out the bottom.

The clutch adjustment isn't hard to do but possibly a little hard to explain with clarity. Best advice here would be to search for a post from CatatonicBug and look for the link in his signature file at the bottom, and download a manual. He has two full service manuals, one from Clymer and One factory manual. Grab both, but the best info is in the FSM.

[natemoen]

Okay, oiling the cable the easy way involves buying an a small tool that attaches to your cable, that you fill with oil and allow it to work it's way through. The hard way is to remove the cable, hang it from your garage roof and drip oil or WD40 into it at regular intervals until it drips out the bottom.

The clutch adjustment isn't hard to do but possibly a little hard to explain with clarity. Best advice here would be to search for a post from CatatonicBug and look for the link in his signature file at the bottom, and download a manual. He has two full service manuals, one from Clymer and One factory manual. Grab both, but the best info is in the FSM.

I would suggest NOT using WD40. As it dries out it gets thick and sticky. Go to a auto parts store and get a cable lube. Usually not too expensive.

[smitty57chevy]

OK, now that I've been made an example of, let me try some constructive advice, after all the only thing worse than no advice is bad advice,

and adjust the clutch at all three points, the actuator lever, the cable length adjuster and the handlebar lever free play, if required, and enjoy riding again.

There are in reality only TWO points of adjustment on the clutch. At the handlebar and at the engine.

[b.walker5]

Okay, my mistake, I was thinking of my trail bike clutch cable which has an adjustment in the cable outer to compensate for stretch, but it also confirmed my theory that you already new this and were fishing for wrong answers. I've heard the whole 'bad advice' thing somewhere before.

[DGXSER]

Actually, bad advice can at least get you looking at the correct things, and then you can come back and ask another question. Interesting how that works isn't it, next thing you know we will have an entire forum develop for nothing but asking questions about how to work on and fix an XS or XJ 1100, hmmm...what a concept!! Oh wait, that is where we are!!!!

This does sound and seem interesting if not somewhat contradicting issues. In that it seems the clutch cable is moving and works the lever. But the clutch slips which would seem to indicate the cable not fully disengaging, yet there is slack in the cable. Typically, if the cable were sticking, there would not be slack. Or at least if it stuck THAT badly, it would not be moving the lever.

I'm with the thought of the adjustment at the engine end. If that screw is in to tight, it will never disengage no matter how slick the cable is or how much slack is in it.

As to lubing the cable, I have some cable lube I use, but no lubing device. So I take a zip-lock bag, and cut the tip of the corner off, then put the cable end in the hole so the open end of the cable is inside the bag, and duct tape it for a good seal. then open the bag and put some lube in it and reseal, hang from something by the bag with the other end over a catch device of some kind and leave it overnight. By morning, the cable should be good and lubed.

[smitty57chevy]

Gee whiz, walker, for a biker you're a real sensitive fella. Pop a coupla midol and go riding.

[DGXSER]

Gee whiz, walker, for a biker you're a real sensitive fella. Pop a coupla midol and go riding.

Hmmm.....another one of my dad's sayings come to mind here, something about a pot and a kettle and a color like black. For someone who has posted a total of 6 post and out of those, 5 1/2 have been about belittleing others, I'd say it fits like glove (but not an OJ glove .)

[cywelchjr]

Actually, bad advice can at least get you looking at the correct things, and then you can come back and ask another question. Interesting how that works isn't it, next thing you know we will have an entire forum develop for nothing but asking questions about how to work on and fix an XS or XJ 1100, hmmm...what a concept!! Oh wait, that is where we are!!!!

This does sound and seem interesting if not somewhat contradicting issues. In that it seems the clutch cable is moving and works the lever. But the clutch slips which would seem to indicate the cable not fully disengaging, yet there is slack in the cable. Typically, if the cable were sticking, there would not be slack. Or at least if it stuck THAT badly, it would not be moving the lever.

I'm with the thought of the adjustment at the engine end. If that screw is in to tight, it will never disengage no matter how slick the cable is or how much slack is in it.

As to lubing the cable, I have some cable lube I use, but no lubing device. So I take a zip-lock bag, and cut the tip of the corner off, then put the cable end in the hole so the open end of the cable is inside the bag, and duct tape it for a good seal. then open the bag and put some lube in it and reseal, hang from something by the bag with the other end over a catch device of some kind and leave it overnight. By morning, the cable should be good and lubed.

That works well. However a cable can be a bit dry, making the handle stiff which will not let the lever go all the way released, which can make the clutch slip. However, the symptoms in this case are that it's got too much slack, meaning that either the adjustment at the bottom moved (it's the only place I know of that can move that much) or something broke, maybe inside. In either case, an attempt needs to be made to adjust the clutch and see if it helps, and while at it, lubing the cable is a good thing to do as part of the troubleshooting.

[bdw72]

This weekend I will adjust the clutch and lube cable, I am hoping this is it. But if not, I will be back to search tech tips and asking more questions.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

bdw

I am now having some trouble with my clutch. It was running and riding great. Then it started slipping in 2nd and 3rd a few times. I parked it and after a week or so went to crank it and clutch lever is real loose. I took the plate off and it appears the clutch lever is being pulled up. With it running I can't get it into gear, grinds. after reading I figured out I used wrong oil. I used 20/50. If I replace oil or is there anything else I should do? Is there a way to adjust the clutch?

Back to your needs bdw. The oil coild have caused the high rpm slip, it has happend to me and friends of mine/You fixed that. Next, the fact that you now have had "slack" in your clutch cable most likely means cable failure or something in the linkage has slipped, the fact it won't go into gear is because the throw out bearing is not pushing hard enough on the pressure plate. It worked fine going into first on your last ride, cable is the most likely the bandit

[bdw72]

OK now what? HA HA!! I made adjustment and the lever on the motor with spring was real loose. The nut was tight but lots of play with lever mounted on screw. I took the nut off and turned the screw with a philips and it turned some and would even turn completely around. It would tighten up but could not line up for lever to mount, I know I will probably being doing some kind of tear down just not how much and best way to go about it.