Swapping out pick up coils?

[newc4]

Well, I’ve begun checking out my bike. Cranks fine and compression is normal for my ride – it does need a ring job. While I was at it I adjusted the cam chain tensioner per procedure. Plugs look fine.

I’m rigging my Dynacoils for install per the tech tip so I’ll swap out the coils in a day or two.

I find it hard to examine the pick up coil wires closely though from feeling them it seems one may be broken. But both sides?

Aside from the stretch test can they be tested for ohms. The book says to disconnect the four prong from the TCI and check the leads, 720 ohms they should read. Otherwise replace the p/u coils.

I’ve a spare p/u coil. How do I swap it? I know how to remove the unit but what about the cable. Looks like it runs under the shift cover with two clips and a grounding wire attached to the case. Do I have to drop the left muffler to get at that screw? The cable then runs under the middle gear boot then where it goes and where it ends I can’t tell. Behind the fuse block cover?

[3Phase]

Newc4, the connection that looks like a ground under the shift cover is for the Neutral switch and, yes, the pickup coil wires run up behind the fuse block to a 6-pin connector.

The pickup coils are supposed to be ~720 Ohms and the reading should remain steady while you pull on the wires. Are you sure you need to replace them?

[b.walker5]

Just a question, but are there other pickups out there that will work for us? has anyone ever looked into it?

[crazy steve]

Just a question, but are there other pickups out there that will work for us? has anyone ever looked into it?

I know there's been posts on here about adapting GM ignition modules to the XS (and with some success if I remember right), but the posts won't come up on the search engine because the phrase 'GM' is 'too short'. It was fairly involved to do though... not a easy bolt-on IIRC.

'78E original owner

[newc4]

Well it appears it is my p/u coils or at least one side. Both sides failed the ohm test from the TCI connector and it looks like the wires to the upper magnet exhibit the hour glass stretch. However one side seems to pass the ohm test at the 6 blade connector.

Anyway I swapped it out with my good (hopefully) PUC. I'm figuring out how to screw in the neutral switch connector that's buried behind the exhaust under the shift cover. Need some sticky stuff to hold the screw on the screwsdriver while I thread it through the connector.

In the meantime I'll read up on the PUC fix. I'm looking for some flexible wire to splice in. See if I can find some color appropriate silicon flex wire.

[b.walker5]

Best stuff I found was test meter lead wire. My fluke came with two sets, one long and one short, so the short ones got sacrificed for a better cause.

[newc4]

Swapped out the pulsar coil, as its officially called. Bike started up firing on four, though 1/4 seem cooler. I'll attribute that to the weak coil. Swapped that out and it seems to run as before.

Now to upgrade to the Dynacoils.

Still want to check the pu gap and time it since I only eyeballed the PUC position.

[tinman905]

1 and 4 will run a bit cooler as they have more air flow to dissipate the heat.

Swapped out the pulsar coil, as its officially called. Bike started up firing on four, though 1/4 seem cooler. I'll attribute that to the weak coil. Swapped that out and it seems to run as before.

Now to upgrade to the Dynacoils.

Still want to check the pu gap and time it since I only eyeballed the PUC position.

[newc4]

Upgraded to Dynacoils per the tech type. Not a lot of vertical clearance so if you're using L brackets drill the holes as near as possilbe to the bend. I installed mine so the plug wires point aft. That puts the primaries aft, but they reach no problem.

Gapped my plugs to .032" and timed it having installed new pulsars. Whilest before it would grind a few seconds before starting, it now starts at the touch.

Like Nathan I have an oil burner, a qt about every 500, so I'll do the rings this fall.