Stuck Drive shaft Bolts

[Nothinghead]

So, i just got a 79 XS11 and it was leaking oil. i was going to just of replace the gaskets and then i decided to just restore the whole damn thing, as it's in really good condition and shouldn't be too much trouble. that was a mistake. the first bit of trouble i ran into, everyone else seems to have had, getting the jugs off. i managed to remove them, thanks to this forum, but now i am stuck on the 4 bolts that connect the drive shaft to the transmission. i have used PB Blaster, heat, and more elbow grease than i thought i was capable of, but all it does is sit there. i have a 12mm open wrench on it, but it just slips so i stop as i do not want to round anything off. any suggestions would be awesome.

[SFerinTEXAS]

Highly suggest get or borrow a quality 6 point box wrench. An open end will never do on something so tight.

[Nothinghead]

thanks, will do.

[DGXSER]

I have always used a 6 point socket on it. As stated..anything not making full contact on all six sides is asking for trouble.

[Ken Talbot]

A good 6 point socket used with an impact driver should get it loose.

[Nothinghead]

there is no room for a socket.

[Ken Talbot]

Hmm, that is pretty snug. How about a nice fresh six point box-end wrench? Anything but an open-end wrench...

[DiverRay]

I use a six point box wrench and a BFH to break them loose. Put the box wrench on the bolt, hold the middle of the handle and hit the top of the wrench with a sharp blow of the hammer. It will break the bolt loose, and then go on to the next one. PB Blaster after you heat up the area will also help.

[Nothinghead]

6 point box end wrench on the way. I spent the day driving around the county looking for a 6 point, but no one had one, so i went to sears website. oh well. now i have a set of them. i'll let you all know how it goes!

[cywelchjr]

I had to use a hammer on mine the first time (I would suspect a silverback gorilla but I don't think he's ever been anywhere near my bike). They are more like at spec now. And even though it says to put new ones in, I've been running the old ones on the new engine for almost a year now.

PS: the hammer was paired with a 6 point box end wrench. And since I couldn't get a socket on there, the torque was by calibrated arm (sometimes knowns as "good-n-tight")

[Nothinghead]

good-n-tight is good 'nuff.

[DGXSER]

Now I'm going to have to go check if I can get a socket on there. Seems like I have used one on it before though.

IMHO, if your going to torque to "feels about right" ft-lbs, I'd add some red locktite to the bolts. These are not anything you want backing out on you at speed.

[Nothinghead]

DX, if you can gert a socket on there, you are a better man than me.

[crazy steve]

...IMHO, if your going to torque to "feels about right" ft-lbs, I'd add some red locktite to the bolts. These are not anything you want backing out on you at speed.

Boy, I dunno if I'd use red; I'd slather a lot of blue loctite on those, but red is just short of a tack-weld...

'78E original owner

[DGXSER]

Steve, it is strong for sure, whihc I think is a good thing here of course.

I also know that I have always been able to get those torq screws back out that have red on them when getting into the tranny for the dremmel fix. Including pulling the ones back out a couple years later when I tore down the engine on my wrecked bike. If that stupid torq bit will hold to the force, a good hex wrench better.

Again, just my opinion.