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  • have video need help

    i've been having problems since i last took my carbs off, didn't adjust much so i'm afraid to do so now as it was running really well before

    this thread shows what i did

    http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29221

    i've got it back together and its running poorly, wont idle without choke and alot of popping from the right tailpipe, hopefully this video is helpful.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRHHAwKZit0


    i turned out the mixture screws, which i guess i can continue to do but i hadn't adjusted it and it was running well before so i dont know why that would change just from remove the rack and putting it back on

    i haven't snyc'd so maybe that is my problem, i didn't break the rack apart but who knows. all the floats are set to 25mm, any other ideas?
    1979 XS1100SF 37000km
    Green Dyna Coils
    Stainless Brake Lines

    1973 CB100
    kevXS

  • #2
    Not an expert but...

    Here's my thought after completely rebuilding my carbs. When you say you turned out the mixture screw are you talking about the idle mixture screw. Those are preset to 1 1/4 turns out and should be left at that setting. As it will quickly show, my expertise is limited although it seems like in the last 3 months I've had enough experience to qualify as a tech on the '79 XS1100SF. Now I'm dealing with electrical issues... maybe my TCI box. From viewing/listening to your video, it leaves me wondering, have you pulled the plugs to check them for coloration?
    Life is good. Especially when the XS-11 is running XSively well.

    '79 XS1100 SF

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    • #3
      yes you need to sync the carbs..

      these bikes are VERY touchy, if you even think about pulling the carbs..

      they need re-syncing

      pain.... but worth it.

      good luck
      Webs
      1979 XS1100SF Special.78 E motor/carbs, Jardine 4-2 exhaust, XS Green coils, Corbin seat, S.S. Brake lines, Hard cases, Heated grips.

      2012 FJR1300 Gen 2. Heli bar risers, R-gaza crash bars, mccruise cruise control.

      (2)2008 WR250R. Because kids outgrew others.

      2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000. (Just added 2024) pre-crashed.

      1975 Kawasaki S1 250. My first bike. Still have it. NO I'm not selling it!!

      Most bike problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

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      • #4
        did you bench sync it before you put them back on? Its way easier to sync them on the bike if you did a reasonable bench sync first. But either way you need to sync them before you try anything else.

        Set the idle screws to about 1 1/4 and then sync the bike. adjust one of the idle screws to where you think its running good and then sync again adjust another idle screw then sync again and repeat 2 more times till you have all the idle screws set to where you think its good.

        and dont worry about messing with the idle screws. yes they are preset at the factory to about 1 1/4 and then they put those fancy little plastic caps on them but they just get ripped off right away so you can actually tune the bike.

        Sync, then come back and tell us what is going on. Good luck!
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

        μολὼν λαβέ

        1978 XS1100E
        K&N Filter
        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
        OEM Exhaust
        ATK Fork Brace
        LED Dash lights
        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

        Green Monster Coils
        SS Brake Lines
        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

        Theodore Roosevelt

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        • #5
          Coughing up hairballs??

          You're doing everything right: searching the forum before before putting forth your situation, putting in pics and videos to bring us as close to "being there" with you, following the sagely advice already given, etc.

          My 2 cents:

          Proper running is dependent upon the carbs and the spark doing exactly what they're s'posed to do each and very time. If the spark don't happen or is intermittent due to a corroded connection in one of the high tension plug wires (Or any other number of causes...) then "pop....pop...poppitty....pop-pop" as that cylinder tries to clear it's throat of the unburned fuel. Or running on three cylinders, being sluggish, and then taking off like a rocket when it finally bangs on all 4 like it's meant to.

          Don't forget to verify that reliable spark is present. If you haven't done it already, then I'd suggest that you do the secondary ignition Ohms tests on the spark plug wires/caps. (Then just as a "gotta be sure" I'd unscrew the spark plug caps from the ends of the wires just to get a look at them. All of them. Not just the ones you might feel are suspect....)

          I got my bike after 4 people and two owners had been in/out of the carbs yet failed to find/correct a simple corroded spark plug cap connection.

          Just sayin' that them carbs is purty but they're only part of the overall system needed to make the engine purr like a kitten. ( Well, a kitten that if it wanted to could rip your arms off.)

          Good Kitty! (Purr....YOOOWWWHHHLLLL!!!) Very Good Kitty...

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          • #6
            thanks guys, i've got new coils, wires and plugs so i'm leaning towards a carb problem, UPDATE did some bench syncing (don't have a guage built yet) and float adjusting and i think i'm getting close, the popping is gone, still wont idle but i haven't had time to mess with the idle screw, so hopefully i'm on the right track, thanks for all your help!
            1979 XS1100SF 37000km
            Green Dyna Coils
            Stainless Brake Lines

            1973 CB100
            kevXS

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