frustrated/ pis.ed off

[mack]

Well I've been through this thing eactly 26 times. managed to get rid off the stumble I had at 1500 to 3000. Now I have a hanging idle that only comes when it's warmed up. I ve pulled the carbs I don't know how many times. Enough to round out the clamp screws, 15 times at least. Yetsreday I pulled the float valves and replaces them with the Z1's. Reset the heights and did the bench test, they closed as they should. Didn't get any gas over flow. Reinstalled and went through the sync/carb tune stufff. Sync is dead on. Take it for a ride and as soon as it heats up it starts picking up RPM. I've run a propane tourch all around the boots, and vacumn hoses. It's fine. Shut it off let it cool down then resart and it idles good, right on 1100. Once it's warm it starts picking RPM again. WTF. Can't ride it like this.

[cywelchjr]

Did you take it out and get it fully warmed up before doing the sync and idle mixture adjustment? If not you likely don't have it right, although the symptoms minus vacuum leaks is of the idle mixture being too lean. This will cause the idle to hang high. This assumes that you have sufficient slack in the throttle cable and it's not hanging up.

[CatatonicBug]

When it's cooled off, it should not idle at 1100 without the choke pulled. Once it warms up, the idle will increase. Do you pull the choke when you start it from cold?

[Montreux_Blue]

Do you pull the choke when you start it from cold?

I'm pretty sure everyone does that.

If you lived closer I'd Colortune it for FREE for you. I don't mind helping others out for the good of man kind being that I'm blessed with thousands of dollars of spending money a month.

[wylie coyote]

Just a thought- I'm sure you covered this, but....when you did the float level, did you just do a measurement, or use the clear tubes for an actual level? I ran into this with mine. The float settings had to be set all different to get the correct actual level in the bowls.

[wylie coyote]

I just re read you initial post- you did do the bench test for that it sounds like. oops. sorry.

[wylie coyote]

Okay- here's a thought. In order to isolate a cable issue- after it's warmed up, disconnect the throttle cable and play with it- see if that matters. Maybe something like a leak is opening up from heat when it's warmed up, since the carb tune sounds on. Checking things while hot if you can is a good idea.

[jwhughes3]

Thousands!

I'm pretty sure everyone does that.

If you lived closer I'd Colortune it for FREE for you. I don't mind helping others out for the good of man kind being that I'm blessed with thousands of dollars of spending money a month.

Blue-

Thats mighty fine of you. I too am blessed but keep spending those $$ on silly things like food and electricity

John

[mack]

I thought

it might be in the cable as well so I've backed it off completely and have a slack loop i have to roll the throttle through to get RPM at all. Then I warm it up with the choke out all the way, then as the RPM change I close it to the second stop then after a minute or so I can push the choke in all the way and it idles like charm. This was when I sync'd and ct'd it several times. It works good, no stagger at any rpm and has pick up although I think it is more sluggish at the hammer than it used to be when it had the stagger. I don't know, I'm lost now. I've been chasing a ghost and it has turned me in a circle.
All I know for sure right now is after a couple miles I'm reving at 3K and won't drop unless I brake the ibike and pull the RPM by almost stalling the machine. Then it slowly picks up rpm again. Hsd to kill it twice now at a stop.

[MindWebs]

Mack,

I'm sorry to say this..

But you NEED to buy a 14mm colortune kit.
it will tell you exactly what's going on with your fuel mix.

i avoided it for too long and may have done damage because of it.

these little tools are a must have for this bike.
it's going to be the only way to get the mix set right.

i'm in the process of using mine right now and it's amazing how simple tuning and jetting becomes.

[79XS11F]

Mack,
Compare your cold compression numbers to your hot compression numbers. If the difference is large, the engine may just be running better when its hot then when it cold. That can be due to better compression values when it's hot.
Rob

[Montreux_Blue]

Mack,

I'm sorry to say this..

But you NEED to buy a 14mm colortune kit.
it will tell you exactly what's going on with your fuel mix.

i avoided it for too long and may have done damage because of it.

these little tools are a must have for this bike.
it's going to be the only way to get the mix set right.

i'm in the process of using mine right now and it's amazing how simple tuning and jetting becomes.

I agree 100%. I was able to tune my Dynojet kit in minutes in the garage compared to hours of trial and error test runs. I got the pro set with 4 plugs which makes it very fast to tune.

[randy]

Mack,

I'm sorry to say this..

But you NEED to buy a 14mm colortune kit.
it will tell you exactly what's going on with your fuel mix.

i avoided it for too long and may have done damage because of it.

these little tools are a must have for this bike.
it's going to be the only way to get the mix set right.

i'm in the process of using mine right now and it's amazing how simple tuning and jetting becomes.

I'm sorry, but I have to Disagree. Sync tools, yes, are a neccessity. As well as a good external tach. All your fine tuning adjustments can be done with thosde two tools. IF you floats are set right, your carbs are TRULY clean, your jets are not corroded, etc. But Colortune? Bah, humbug.

[mack]

colour tune

I have one and use it every time. I'll check the compression numbers hot and cold. Pretty hard to tune this thing though when the RPMkeep creeping up to 3K. Sort of throws off the colour tune.

[cywelchjr]

it might be in the cable as well so I've backed it off completely and have a slack loop i have to roll the throttle through to get RPM at all. Then I warm it up with the choke out all the way, then as the RPM change I close it to the second stop then after a minute or so I can push the choke in all the way and it idles like charm. This was when I sync'd and ct'd it several times. It works good, no stagger at any rpm and has pick up although I think it is more sluggish at the hammer than it used to be when it had the stagger. I don't know, I'm lost now. I've been chasing a ghost and it has turned me in a circle.
All I know for sure right now is after a couple miles I'm reving at 3K and won't drop unless I brake the ibike and pull the RPM by almost stalling the machine. Then it slowly picks up rpm again. Hsd to kill it twice now at a stop.

That generally means it's still too lean. Just getting it off the choke is the wrong way. It needs to be all the way up to riding temp before you do the sync and mixture adjustment.