If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
where did you get that? that is exactly what i needed. i think this is the spot i was talking about, thanks man. i dont know if that is my problem or not but it is still good info to have.
Troy
well it helped me at least knock that off the list of posibilities. i was able to blow air down the needle valve hole and feel it coming out of the needle hole and those 3 holes, so they are clear.
Thanks
Does the (what is labeld as starter jet) do anything other than choke?
Starter jet is for the fuel enrichment circuit, sort of like a choke, except it adds extra fuel instead of choking off air. Not sure if it contributes to anything other than cold starting. Diagram is courtesy of Topcat.
OK!!! i put the old #1 carb that came with the bike and it ran so much better. i synced the carbs, off a little, and rode it around the block. if i let it idle for 5 sec. or so it will do the same thing it has been doing but not as bad, i can get throught it much easyer than befor, so i was right its the carbs, but i still dont know why, i need another #2 carb anyone have one they want to sell? thanks for all your advise, made me feel like i was not alone.
Just a thought, you stated that you have cleaned the carbs repeatedly. Did you remove the float valve seats? My '78 has filter screens on the inlet side of the seats. Carbs 1 and 2 share a petcock from the tank and may both have clooged inlet screens. Again, just a thought.
'78 E "Stormbringer"
Purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion, runs like a gazelle (being chased by a cheetah).
Yes I do know about the tiny screens at the fuel inlet and they are clean. But as I said in the last post. The old carb body seemed to fix the problem with #1 now I just need to get a carb body for #2 and I think I will be good to go. Bu thank you for the advise.
Troy
I finnaly got a set of carbs. found'em on ebay. $120. they were nasty but i was able to clean them up and i used carb body #2 only and transfered the old parts, IT'S ALIVE!!!! I am so happy, i have been itching to ride, crappy thing is my state inspection is dead and i cant get one untill monday. i may just risk it and ride tommrow? thanks for all you help and support on this one.
1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
Yes that small hole in the carb bowls are clear. Just did a compression test
180 180 155 175 and I did a leakdown test
5% 5% 5% 3-4%. Keep in mind that the problem ones are the 180 and 180. As far as I can tell the spec is 142 with a max difference of 14. I know I am outside the difference but the one that is out works just fine. I am going to try to sync them I have the mercury tubes. I don't think that is it because I don't see how the can get out of sync from just sitting for 5-6 months but we shall see. Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it
Troy
I read here somewhere (TC I think pointed out) that higher than spec compression (without any mods) could be carbonized combustion chamber.
Maybe 1 & 2 carbs running richer causing rhe chamber to carbon up.
yea i am aware of that as well but i did look down in each cylinder with a bore scope and that is not the case. i am sure it was the #1 and #2 carb bodies. that is all i swaped out and it runs fine now.
thanks
Comment