and does anyone know what size fuses to use, and maybe where to find a wiring diagram
Starting issue
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you might have to re wire it all it will cost a good chunk of change but its worth it not dieyinthe sniper of doom
usmc trainee
xs1100 for lifeComment
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Main 30 amp, Headlight 10 amp, Signal lights 20 amp, Ignition 10 Amp.
Does your 78 have an on/off switch for the headlight on the same switch unit as the kill switch?
I just went through this exact issue with my 78. The PO had changed the switch with a later type and the wiring isn't the same.Nice day, if it doesn't rain...
'05 ST1300
'83 502/502 Monte Carlo for sale/tradeComment
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1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. FordComment
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It works now, me and a buddy spent like two hours going through the wiring. Finally where the start switch wire goes into the solenoid I grounded it and started the bike. Now the switch works fine, not too sure what I did1978 XS1100Comment
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Are you saying you fixed a ground, or you added one? Got a pic of the fix?I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake linesComment
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I don't have a pic, I don't think it was getting a good ground, but i think when i took the right handlebar switch apart, and reassembled it, it fixed it1978 XS1100Comment
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So you're saying it's reassembled properly with no added wires?I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake linesComment
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i just bought a brand new one my old starter got fried so i had to rewire it all
the sniper of doom
usmc trainee
xs1100 for lifeComment
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The switchs ground on the handlebars were just gunked up, no added wires thanks god, but i am still going to replace the fuse block, or add one. My fuse block is gone and strangley there are four fusable links near by, i don't think it is a coincedents. Currently though i am trying to figure out why oil is leaking out the bottome of the engine on the left side when the bike is running1978 XS1100Comment
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Have a good look at your neutral switch, its on the left side down on the bottom, mine was leaking oil - through - the switch, switch still worked but I'd get some drips anytime I left it sitting idling for very long. Replaced the switch and the leak went away.1979 xs1100 Special -
Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power
Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.
My Bike:Originally posted by fredintoonGoes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
[link is broken]Comment
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You have a galley plug on the left side that seals with an o-ring. It's directly below, and slightly behind the timing cover. Take it out and put a new o-ring on it, and put it back. DO NOT OVERTORQUE THE PLUG - it's made out of pot metal and will snap clean in two if you overtighten. You just want enough torque on it to compress the o-ring a bit. I don't know the exact torque spec, but I would guess somewhere in the 4-5 ft lb range. There's also another galley plug on the other side of the motor that you may also want to change if you see oil inside the alternator cover. They're both notorious for leaking, but luckily they're easy to change. If you're due for an oil change, that's the opportune time to change the o-rings, cause when you pull them out, the oil is going to start drainingCurrently though i am trying to figure out why oil is leaking out the bottome of the engine on the left side when the bike is running
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I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake linesComment
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hard starting....
Hey man, if you still need a fuse block....I have gotten two from TopcatGr58. He will send you one for 10.00 bucks....that includes shipping.
Last edited by brcree; 06-02-2010, 10:15 AM.At this time:
1985 Goldwing Innr.
1976 cb 750 cafe racer
2007 vtx 1300
81 sx 1100 s h
81 sx 400 specialComment
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thanks for the offer but i already picked one up, i would like to find a cover or somthing to water proof them in though1978 XS1100Comment
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the ones from TC come with a nice fitting cover, too bad you already bought something else. Really though, they shouldn't get very wet behind the side cover, unless your missing the side cover too.1979 xs1100 Special -
Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power
Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.
My Bike:Originally posted by fredintoonGoes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
[link is broken]Comment
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