Starting issue

[Sgriger534]

I just got my bike and I am trying to get it started. I rigged up a remote starter switch between on the solenoid because the starter switch won't work. I think something is messed up with the starter switch/ cut off switch though because it will start and rev fine as long as my hand is on the remote starter switch, but when I remove my hand from the remote switch it dies like someone just turned the key off. Any suggestions on where to look for a problem in the wiring

[randy]

Sounds like a ballast resistor problem. BUT, without knowing which model you have, it's hard to answer. Add your year/model info in your signature.

[dbeardslee]

You might try taking the handlebar control apart - they get pretty grungy inside, and it's not that unusual to find broken connections. If you're bypassing the switch and it runs, it could indicate a brake somewhere the red/wht wire leading to the handlebar kill switch. There's also a little spring and a ball bearing, as well as a couple of brass contacts in there that need to be cleaned periodically. If you want to eliminate the switch as the problem, you could try pulling the two red/wht leads that go into the switch, short them together, and see if it keeps running. If it does give the switch some attention. The fact that the starter button isn't working is another indication it could be in the handlebar switch. That being said, Randy's probably the best ignition guy we've got, and I'm not about to dispute what he said about the ballast resistor.

[Sgriger534]

It is a 78 XS1100E

[BigRed]

The ballast resistor that Randy was talking about is located under the left side of the tank. Red wires with white stripes hook into it. You can unplug the wires, and connect the two ends to each other to eliminate the ballast resistor, but don't run it for any amount of time like that, as you can fry your TCI. If the resistor is your problem, you can either replace it or upgrade your ignition coils to higher resistance coils, and then you won't need the resistor.

Good luck!

[petejw]

as Randy said earlier, sounds like the ballast resistor,
its located under the tank on the left rail, it will have
2 wires running to it, you can join the wires together to
by pass the resistor to test it.

[petejw]

and i type to slow..

[dbeardslee]

you can join the wires together to by pass the resistor to test it.

Note that Pete said to test it. Don't run it like that for extended periods - it can damage the TCI or the coils.

Jeeze - I'm typing slow too . Sorry for the message from the department of redundancy department.

[Sgriger534]

how does the kill switch work. does it just complete a ignition circuit, i am not getting power to either side of it, and no power to the starter switch

[petejw]

at least u cant complain with thec service
3 replies in 5 minutes.


not to sure about the kill switch, i think
those wires are red and white as well,
the same as the ignition so i would suspect
that they would be live wires, compared to
a kill switch that earths.

[randy]

One side should be live with the key on. The other side goes to the TCI box, same color at the TCI. Then to the coils as a common feed to both coils. How's your ignition fuse. This virtual electrical diagnostic crap blows. Got a manual? Got a schematic?

[petejw]

i knew you would explain it better Randy.

[CatatonicBug]

The kill switch is really simple. Once you have it open, you should be able to see how it works. Make sure the wires are connected, and there is no corrosion on the contact spot. Just remember that the whole housing needs to have a clean ground connection to the handlebars. Painted handlebars can cause a problem with the contact.

The starter button completes a circuit that engages the starter whenever it is pressed. Notice that it only has one wire coming to it, and it grounds to the housing? The starter also grounds to the same path - via the engine case. Yet another reason why ALL the ground contacts need to be clean.

[dbeardslee]

How's your ignition fuse?

If you've got the old glass fuses, you might try a continuity test. And don't just test the fuse - test it all the way from wire to wire inclusive of both connectors for a given fuse. Sometimes the fuse block itself can be the culprit. JAT

[Sgriger534]

i've got to go to work here soon, but when i get home i am going to check all the wires, and i am going to pick up a new fuse block today, i don't have a fuse block any more, somebody just spliced in a bunch of fusable links