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1980 XS1100 Special dual front brakes

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  • 1980 XS1100 Special dual front brakes

    One of my calipers has locked up. I tried to get the caliper off and it won't move? How can I get it unstuck and take it off?

  • #2
    Crack the bleader screw to releave the pressure... Do a little searching on breaks, look in the maintenance section and you will find all kinds of tricks. Welcome to the forum.
    '79 XS11 F
    Stock except K&N

    '79 XS11 SF
    Stock, no title.

    '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
    GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

    "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

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    • #3
      And after that remove the other one, and the back one, and both master cylinders, and clean according to all the tech tips. You can't be to sure when it comes to the brakes. I would say, if you have a problem with one, the rest need repair also. I had my rear freeze up, that's how i found out how dirty the system was.
      1980 XS1100LG Midnight
      1991 Honda CBR1000F Hurricane


      "The hand is almost valueless at one end of the arm if there be not a brain at the other"

      Here's to a long life and a happy one.
      A quick death and an easy one.
      A pretty girl and an honest one.
      A cold beer and another one!

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      • #4
        I used a 1" wooden dowel and a drill press to press the piston INTO the caliper. After that, I re-attached it to the brake lines on the bike, bled the air out, and used the pressure from the master cylinder to press the piston out.

        Compressed air can also be used instead of connecting it to the master cylinder again, but it's not as strong, and a lot more explosive when it pops out.

        +1 on cleaning the entire system though. If one is dirty, the whole system propably is too.
        1980 XS850SG - Sold
        1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
        Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
        Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

        Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
        -H. Ford

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        • #5
          Originally posted by CatatonicBug View Post
          I used a 1" wooden dowel and a drill press to press the piston INTO the caliper. After that, I re-attached it to the brake lines on the bike, bled the air out, and used the pressure from the master cylinder to press the piston out.
          +1 on that, but before driving the piston in, remove the rubber dust seal and clean up, with some fine emery cloth, any rust there may be on the protuding lip of the piston, . If you dont and there's too much there you could damage the housing by trying to force it in.

          A G clamp will also work to drive the piston it.
          1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
          2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

          Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

          "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

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          • #6
            Pads stuck

            So bleed out the fluid and then pry the pads off of the rotor?

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            • #7
              Okay, thats a different story. Yes, open the nipple and bleed any pressure off. This will tell you if it's a pressure problem or a seized caliper. Take the caliper monting bolt out, if you havent already and try to work the caliper off the disk by rocking it back and forth, spray the disk with some WD-40 or something to provide some lube (make sure NOT to reuse the pads if you do). If no go, then you probably have no option but to try to pry it off. Be careful not to damage the disk, although they are pretty hard.

              I've never had the problem but others have and I'm sure you will get further advice

              Good Luck
              1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
              2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

              Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

              "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

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              • #8
                Once the pressure is bled off, you can use a piece of wood and a hammer to tap it off the rotor. Try to "walk" it off, tapping firmly on the upper edge, then the lower, repeating until it walks all the way off the edge. Don't twist the caliper sideways (left to right on the bike) or you may damage the rotor.
                1980 XS850SG - Sold
                1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                -H. Ford

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                • #9
                  Thanx........I'll try that

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by b.walker5 View Post
                    Okay, thats a different story. Yes, open the nipple and bleed any pressure off. This will tell you if it's a pressure problem or a seized caliper. Take the caliper monting bolt out, if you havent already and try to work the caliper off the disk by rocking it back and forth, spray the disk with some WD-40 or something to provide some lube (make sure NOT to reuse the pads if you do). If no go, then you probably have no option but to try to pry it off. Be careful not to damage the disk, although they are pretty hard.

                    I've never had the problem but others have and I'm sure you will get further advice

                    Good Luck
                    I agree, this is the way to go. REbuild kits are cheap and easy to find on old bike barn or mikes xs. I just finished rebuilding all my calipers (6 total) is the same kit for all, plus a new front MC from Mikes XS. Pads were all still good, total cost for all was about $150. My XS11 and 750 stop almost as well as any modern bike. HIGHLY recommend you replace the front MC. I havent changed out the pads for something more agressive (too cheap, no reason to replace pads wiht life) but will get better pads when I do and expect even better braking, the pads are probably 10+ years old

                    Over time the old MC spooges up, blocks the return, and locks you up. I did a rebuild on my front MC 5-6 years ago, but still never had teh bite I liked, the New MC plus SS lines gives it near 'stoppie' power ;-) I think the front MC for dual disks on Mikes XS is $68.

                    If you decide NOT to rebuild, but just push caliper back in, make sure you remove the dust boot carefully, and clean well so you dont damage the seal. Also, I use a C clamp to slowly push the piston back in.
                    2005 FJR 1300 "Mission" (NON ABS)
                    1979 XS 1100 SF "Visitation" Owned since 1984 - SS Brake Lines, TKAT fork brace, Progressive Fork Springs.
                    1978 XS 750 D "Motivation" - 9" rear custom shocks, dropped front end, shaved seat

                    When Caged:2006 Jeep Commander, 1986 Cutlass 442, 1976 Porsche 912E (latest project)

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