Different pilot jet sizes

[blade]

NOPE...analog is fine.

Hi Randy.
I think i'll still get a DMM. I haven't had one before so it would be nice to try.
Also I have have seen DMM's that can check temperatures too.

[blade]

I also had a similar problem - not the carbs but Ignition not fully advancing.
Put a timing light on it to check max advance, its a lot easier than pulling the carbs. If it is the advance there are quite a few fixes in these pages. Best of luck.

Hi Stoffa.
Good idea, I had better check that too.

[dbeardslee]

NOPE...analog is fine.

I was just looking at my analog meter, and Randy's probably right. Make sure you zero it first, and look for a reading that's between 600 and 800 on the analog. On a digital the range is from 576-864 ohms, but I doubt that the scale on an analog meter is going to get that precise, but it should be close enough to tell if the pickup coil wires are OK. I don't think I'd trust the analog as much on the voltage readings though, only because you can't read the analog as precisely. What the heck - dmm's are cheap and come in real handy. Any hardware store should have them relatively inexpensively, or HF if you've got one close.

[Stoffa]

4-5000 rpm stutter

I also had a similar problem - not the carbs but Ignition not fully advancing.
Put a timing light on it to check max advance, its a lot easier than pulling the carbs. If it is the advance there are quite a few fixes in these pages. Best of luck.

[blade]

Well, I'm not looking for a tool that I will be using to make a living with. It's been fine so far, and reads voltage and ohms quite well IMO. It reads several other things as well, but that's all I've used it for. This is the one I got. They have a slightly more expensive one with a backlit display, but I haven't had a need for that option, so I didn't pay the extra $2.

Thanks for the link. For $3.99 I should buy a few to have in other vehicles, or as backup's etc.
At least it would be more accurate than my analog meter.

[randy]

analog meter isn't precise enough - gotta be a digital.

NOPE...analog is fine.

[CatatonicBug]

Hi CatatonicBug.
I heard that some of the cheaper dmm's can be inaccurate, so I am not sure how much to spend on one. I like to buy higher quality tools but with the current economy I don't have that luxury anymore.
Have you had good results with the one you bought from Harbor Freight?

Well, I'm not looking for a tool that I will be using to make a living with. It's been fine so far, and reads voltage and ohms quite well IMO. It reads several other things as well, but that's all I've used it for. This is the one I got. They have a slightly more expensive one with a backlit display, but I haven't had a need for that option, so I didn't pay the extra $2.

[blade]

I just bought a new one at Harbor Freight for $4.99. My old one ran on watch batteries, and those things cost more than the new meter!

Hi CatatonicBug.
I heard that some of the cheaper dmm's can be inaccurate, so I am not sure how much to spend on one. I like to buy higher quality tools but with the current economy I don't have that luxury anymore.
Have you had good results with the one you bought from Harbor Freight?

[blade]

I will have to get a DMM then.
Not sure when I will be able to get one though.

[CatatonicBug]

Nope - analog meter isn't precise enough - gotta be a digital. They're pretty inexpensive, though.

I just bought a new one at Harbor Freight for $4.99. My old one ran on watch batteries, and those things cost more than the new meter!

[dbeardslee]

Nope - analog meter isn't precise enough - gotta be a digital. They're pretty inexpensive, though. On mine, I put an alligator clamp on the end of the probe, and clip it to a 1/4" male spade connector. That way I can attach it to the connectors with good contact, and it leaves my hands free to do other things - like wiggle the pickup coil wires around while I watch the readings. If the readings start jumping around all over the place, that's another indication of bad pickup coil wires.

[blade]

thanks dbeardslee.
I have a dial multi meter. Are those accurate enough?

[dbeardslee]

Sounds like you're making good progress. Have you checked your pickup coil wires yet? If you haven't here's how - take a digital multimeter, pull the four wire connector at the TCI, and hold it so the 'slots' are horizontal. Put a probe in each one of the 'upper slots' and take a reading. Should be 720 ohms plus or minus 20%. Repeat on the 'lower slots'. If the numbers are within spec, replace the four wire connector, and turn the ignition on but not running (if they're not in spec, jump to the last paragraph). From the back of the large TCI connector put a probe on the red/wht, orange, grey, and wht/red (one at a time) and put the other probe on a good ground. Set your dmm to volts and take a reading. Should be 12v. Repeat on the black/wht and you should get a reading of 6v. If your voltages are significantly less (I would say less that 11.5v), get to work cleaning all connectors, and pay particular attention to the red/wht wire. Don't forget to clean the handlebar switch too - and be careful with the kill switch. When you get the switch apart, there's a screw that holds the kill switch in. Once you've removed it you'll see a little circlip on a brass post. Watch it when you remove the circlip and pull the assembly apart - there's a small ball bearing and some springs and stuff in there that can really fly if you're not careful.

And to finish the pickup coil wire test, remove the timing cover (left side of motor) and take each pickup coil wire in your fingers and pull gently. If you've got any breaks inside the wires you'll see the wire sheath stretch. Just pull gently - the sheath will slide around on the wire a bit, and if you pull too hard you can almost make a good wire look bad. While you're in there you might check your pickup coil gap too.

[blade]

Well I am back.
I haven't been able to access the site for over a week, but with the help of topcat I am here through proxy.
I finally got my jets and installed them. While I was there I pushed out the emulsion tubes that I hadn't done on the previous clean. I am glad I did, they were all gummed up with old crusty fuel. Thanks dbeardslee for the suggestion, you were right.
I also did IVAN's v-stack mod while the carbs were out.
I put the carbs back in and took it for a ride. There was still a little hesitation at around 4 to 5k rpm but nothing like the wall I hit before.
When I got home I checked the headers and #4 was warm while the other three were hot. I pulled the plug out on #4 and hit the starter, no spark.
I put a spare plug in and got a spark, but I then noticed that the plugs were BR8es instead of 6's, maybe that was one of the reasons for the poor running at 4-5k rpm.
I bought four new plugs today which are the NGK BR6ES but I didn't get a chance to put them in yet.

Oh, I also noticed a small amount of fuel getting sucked into #4 intake manifold because of a leaky vacuum on the petcock. Possibly another reason it wasn't running quite right.

[blade]

I love mine. Excellent performance, pleasant growl, not too loud if you're putting around but you can make them holler when you hit the gas. You can still use your center stand (which you can't with all 4/1's), and you can also access the oil filter easily. The header pipes come off individually, so they're a lot easier for one person to handle alone. Can't use the spin on oil filter adapter with them, though. There had to be something .

Yeah, I like the sound too. It seems a bit louder without being obnoxious.